salad

It'll take a while to start while the system purges air. If you want to help it along turn the key and give a bit of a poke to the pressure test port on the fuel rail with a giant rag around it. Should blast out some air and gas.

ITTs_Cole

Cant beat your advice

JeepMN

Don't think it matters. I did my alternator last week and did the ground first and everything has worked perfect.

Greybeard

Both yokes measure exactly 55 mm, (2.188") which is a standard K measurement. So, I don't think they are bent. They appear to be nice and square all the way from edge in. I spoke with a very helpful gal at CarQuest. She had a Spicer catalog. The Spicer equivalent of the 371 has a K dimension of 2.235" (IIRC). All of the 2.188" joints had smaller end caps than the 1.188" ones with internal c rings that fit my parts.

Is it possible that I have an unusual axle? of, that noone manufactures the u-joint that was used initially?

Should i get a machine shop to enlarge the opening on both yokes? Any other suggestions? thanks.

XJwonders

What's the fuel pressure supposed to be at the fuel rail? 2000 WJ 4.0

I hooked up the pressure gauge and it says 30 psi. Trying to determine if the fuel pump is shot

jamesb813

in the morning my 2004 jeep GCL runs smooth like it should, if i goto the store when i start to drive home the engine or transmission starts to studder/sputter had the fuel filter changed and used sea foam for posable water in the fuel lines. it sat for a month by what the used car salesman said. we also had to replace the battery. Im at my wits end and could use some help

Thanks
Jamesb813

salad

The OE joint is Spicer 5-297x. http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploa..._catalogue.pdf

As far as I can tell the Moog/Precision 371 - which went fine into my '99 and '98 axles - is almost completely identical. All the sites I hit list 2.188" between clips.

Perhaps the product is mislabelled?

Late model OBD-II XJ (this isn't the WJ forum, nub) is 49 PSI. +/- 2 PSI with the little dampener on the injector rail, +/-5 without.

salad

Try the Grand Cherokee forum https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/

Marks2000XJ

Does anyone know if it is possible to clean the check valve in the fuel pump? I know that is the problem with why it takes 2-3 cranks to fire the heep up. I thought I saw somewhere that the fuel pump assembly can be taken apart and cleaned including the check valve.

Marks2000XJ

I might have figured out the answer to my question. After a little research it appears the check valve is in the fuel pressure regulator located on top of the fuel pump. Sounds like this is the culprit most of the time as to why it takes 2-3 times of cranking to start.

Does this sound right? If so, that would make me happy. $34 fix even though I still have to drop the tank.

crabmushrooms5

would like to know as well

Marks2000XJ

Yeah, just a quick search yielded this information. I was just wanting some confirmation from the more experienced Jeeper's on here. Although I wonder if it would be a good idea just to replace the whole fuel pump and all since the fuel filter is located inside and is 16 years old.

DieselD

I have the same issues. I just don't care enough about the extra couple cranks to drop the tank and do it lol. I'll wait til I have to do it for a fuel pump or something. Replace it while in there.

Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail after it sits over night? That would tell you for sure if its losing pressure.

stitch702

Just replace the whole assembly while you're down there. Might as well do it all at once rather than do it all again.

Marks2000XJ

I have not checked the pressure at the rail but from everything I have read this seems to be a common problem so I am 99.9% sure this is the issue.

If I turn the engine off and restart it within a couple minutes it fires right up. Let is sit 10 minutes and I have to poor man prime it again.