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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 07-02-2014 | 09:28 AM
  #43981  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Anyone know what tubing size is good for bleeding brakes?

I won't have a helper and I want to try the tube in the fluid method.
If i remember i used 3/8 tubing. Do you have some speed bleeders? Makes life easy. Well worth $10
Old 07-02-2014 | 09:32 AM
  #43982  
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I don't even know what speed bleeders are. I though I could just open the bleeder throw some tube on it and stick it in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the brake for a while the close bleeder port. Repeat on the other 3.

Do I need speed bleeders for this?
Old 07-02-2014 | 09:34 AM
  #43983  
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Ah I see check valve on the bleeder. No don't have those. If I can avoid spending $20 on those I'd rather use what I got plus some tubing.
Old 07-02-2014 | 09:42 AM
  #43984  
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i think i have a blend door issue on my 2001 jeep cherokee sport. heat only comes out of defroster although i can control the settings. do sports have this problem. i really only see posts regarding grand cherokees. thanks
Old 07-02-2014 | 09:49 AM
  #43985  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Ah I see check valve on the bleeder. No don't have those. If I can avoid spending $20 on those I'd rather use what I got plus some tubing.
I dont think that will work. Your goal is to push old fluid/air out of the system. Without them it is honestly a two person job. One person to pump brake and other to open/close the plug. I got mine from AutoZone, had to order them but worth it immo.

Last edited by drhoward1988; 07-02-2014 at 09:52 AM.
Old 07-02-2014 | 10:00 AM
  #43986  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988

I dont think that will work. Your goal is to push old fluid/air out of the system. Without them it is honestly a two person job. One person to pump brake and other to open/close the plug. I got mine from AutoZone, had to order them but worth it immo.
I just read several methods of one man bleeding, making various types of vacuum bleeders, and tubes in jars.

Seems the method of tubing in fluid until no bubbles come out seems to work for some people. (Or there are a lot of liars out there lol)

Speed bleeders sound nice but I don't want to wait or spend more money right now. I mean $24 at advanced auto parts IF they have them vs. Like $3 in tube IF I don't have any laying around.

I am just realizing all of this is irrelevant in my immediate future. I forgot the prop valve stripped and I need to swap the one from my parts jeep. The rear fitting on it is a different size so I need to run a new brake line to the drivers side front caliper. ****.
Old 07-02-2014 | 10:21 AM
  #43987  
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From: Nanaimo BC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
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Hello i am new here don't even no I f I am in the right place. I have a 1988 jeep Cherokee. Under the dash was a birds nest of wires going no where. Can some one tell me what the wire colours for the brake switch are. No manual yet. Thanks.
Old 07-02-2014 | 10:36 AM
  #43988  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by fbjd
i think i have a blend door issue on my 2001 jeep cherokee sport. heat only comes out of defroster although i can control the settings. do sports have this problem. i really only see posts regarding grand cherokees. thanks
The direction door in the HVAC system is controlled by vacuum. If there's no vacuum, the system defaults to the defrost position.

First place to start is on the passenger side of the engine bay (left if you're leaning on the grille). Find the hard black tube that runs along the fender. It has a T just between the battery and fuse box - if you have cruise control there'll be a black ball with arm connected to it, if not the T just has a plug. This tube runs back to the firewall and to the intake manifold, and the other end is a black ball that lives inside your bumper. You need to check the entire length of that tube, and the ball if you can get to it, for cracks, or anything not plugged in.
Old 07-02-2014 | 10:46 AM
  #43989  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Ah I see check valve on the bleeder. No don't have those. If I can avoid spending $20 on those I'd rather use what I got plus some tubing.
The solo brake bleed you speak of works well. You have it right. Just be sure to not pump all the fluid out of reservoir! Keep adding it.
I like to pass all the old out when doing this job.
Brake fluid is caustic, avoid getting it on your hands or anything else.
Old 07-02-2014 | 11:00 AM
  #43990  
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From: stoney creek , ontario
Year: 1998
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how long should my control arms be for a 9 inch lift
Old 07-02-2014 | 11:03 AM
  #43991  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
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Originally Posted by 0999
how long should my control arms be for a 9 inch lift
I think that is out of the range of plug-in numbers.
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Old 07-02-2014 | 11:09 AM
  #43992  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by 0999
how long should my control arms be for a 9 inch lift
long arms, no doubt.
Old 07-02-2014 | 11:24 AM
  #43993  
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From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by 0999
how long should my control arms be for a 9 inch lift
depending on the long arm kit, somewhere around 36 inches for the lowers.
Old 07-02-2014 | 11:43 AM
  #43994  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I think that is out of the range of plug-in numbers.
Old 07-02-2014 | 12:25 PM
  #43995  
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From: Minnesota
Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr

I think that is out of the range of plug-in numbers.
Holy schnikies! Do you even lift bro? Damn haha


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