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Old 07-05-2014, 05:05 PM
  #44056  
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Yeah it's on the rear of the head
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:39 PM
  #44057  
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A couple of questions:

I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...

1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
2) What size are these bolts?
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:26 PM
  #44058  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Yeah it's on the rear of the head


I found it and cleaned it a bit now my temp gauge works. Luckily a little top off of coolant and I'm not actually overheating like I though I was.
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
A couple of questions:

I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...

1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
Sort of. Your options are to score them with a rotary tool or some such so that you can fit a slot screwdriver in. The other is to hammer a slightly smaller size socket onto the head, or grind down the head so that a smaller socket will fit.

Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
2) What size are these bolts?
Not sure, but the OE part number is 06028921. I was hoping the parts fiche listed the length, thread, and pitch... alas...

The bolt's used in a lot of Chrysler vehicles, I would imagine a dealer should have them lying around.

Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
I doubt that. The cylinder pushes outwards against surfaces that move, it is very important to stay stationary. I'd be concerned about it pivoting and one of the pistons popping out, at which point you'd lose fluid and have no brakes to drive on. It'd be a better idea to clamp the rear hose so that you basically don't have any brakes in the rear until you can sort that out.
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:31 PM
  #44060  
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I just wanted to throw a quick "Thanks" for all the help the forum has been for me.

This time it was the oil pan, rear main seal, oil pump, OFA rings, the steering stabilizer, and two tie rod ends I messed up in the process.

Thanks!

Last edited by Snajo; 07-05-2014 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 07-05-2014, 10:47 PM
  #44061  
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Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
A couple of questions:

I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...

1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
2) What size are these bolts?
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
1)If your hardware is to the point where it's rounded and can't be extracted by conventional tools means the question of removing it without damage is irrelevant; how will you reinstall it? New hardware is in order.
2)Sorry, mate, I'll have to do a bit of looking for this..
3)One new bolt would probably be as strong as the two old bolts you've currently got. However, with only one bolt, the cylinder is not anchored at both ends and could possibly shift while driving. I don't know if this is a an issue or not. Is there is parts store between you and London? Because otherwise call Quadratec and ask them about the part you need. They sell the cylinder here and here, but I don't know if they come with hardware.

Last edited by VTJeep; 07-05-2014 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:02 PM
  #44062  
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Ok so my transfer case shifter linkage is pissing me off. One of the pivot points keeps sliding out of its home and after shifting in and out of 4wd a few times ive got to slide under it and seat it back in so i can shift the t case without grinding. What the hell do i need? I tried getting an e clip on the end of it but there's not enough room.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:09 PM
  #44063  
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adjust existing hardware, get new hardware, or, as long as its not slipping outta 4, deal with it.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rabblerouser
Ok so my transfer case shifter linkage is pissing me off. One of the pivot points keeps sliding out of its home and after shifting in and out of 4wd a few times ive got to slide under it and seat it back in so i can shift the t case without grinding. What the hell do i need? I tried getting an e clip on the end of it but there's not enough room.
A new trans mount? I don't think it should be that far apart. There's always boostwerks shift linkage. Good stuff just got mine in today. Either way I'd check that trans mount.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:25 PM
  #44065  
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Link for linkage lol...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/boostwerks-com-shift-linkage-194882/
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:54 AM
  #44066  
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Originally Posted by VTJeep
adjust existing hardware, get new hardware, or, as long as its not slipping outta 4, deal with it.
Along with checking motor mounts and trans mount............
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:45 AM
  #44067  
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Can someone tell me why there are 3 different oil drain plugs listed for the XJ? I needed one for my 91. I got an m14-1.25 with a blue gasket. Is this correct?
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:28 AM
  #44068  
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OK my front brakes suck. What are the best brand brake pads, rotors and callipers?
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:41 AM
  #44069  
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How much money you want to spend?
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:50 AM
  #44070  
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Originally Posted by salad
How much money you want to spend?
I want actually be able to stop without having to follow so far away from people
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