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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Member
A couple of questions:
I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...
1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
2) What size are these bolts?
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...
1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
2) What size are these bolts?
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
A couple of questions:
I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...
1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...
1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
Not sure, but the OE part number is 06028921. I was hoping the parts fiche listed the length, thread, and pitch... alas...
The bolt's used in a lot of Chrysler vehicles, I would imagine a dealer should have them lying around.
I doubt that. The cylinder pushes outwards against surfaces that move, it is very important to stay stationary. I'd be concerned about it pivoting and one of the pistons popping out, at which point you'd lose fluid and have no brakes to drive on. It'd be a better idea to clamp the rear hose so that you basically don't have any brakes in the rear until you can sort that out.
I just wanted to throw a quick "Thanks" for all the help the forum has been for me.
This time it was the oil pan, rear main seal, oil pump, OFA rings, the steering stabilizer, and two tie rod ends I messed up in the process.
Thanks!
This time it was the oil pan, rear main seal, oil pump, OFA rings, the steering stabilizer, and two tie rod ends I messed up in the process.
Thanks!
Last edited by Snajo; 07-05-2014 at 09:34 PM.
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A couple of questions:
I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...
1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
2) What size are these bolts?
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
I'm replacing both rear wheel cylinders. I've got one stuck/rounded bolt (of the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the backing plate) on each side, and the new cylinders didn't come with replacements. Being in the UK, finding replacements isn't easy...
1) Is there anyway of removing the bolts without completely ruining them
2) What size are these bolts?
3) Would the cylinders hold in place OK with just one bolt holding each one to the backing plate (temporarily)?
2)Sorry, mate, I'll have to do a bit of looking for this..
3)One new bolt would probably be as strong as the two old bolts you've currently got. However, with only one bolt, the cylinder is not anchored at both ends and could possibly shift while driving. I don't know if this is a an issue or not. Is there is parts store between you and London? Because otherwise call Quadratec and ask them about the part you need. They sell the cylinder here and here, but I don't know if they come with hardware.
Last edited by VTJeep; 07-05-2014 at 10:49 PM.
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Manchester CT
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
Ok so my transfer case shifter linkage is pissing me off. One of the pivot points keeps sliding out of its home and after shifting in and out of 4wd a few times ive got to slide under it and seat it back in so i can shift the t case without grinding. What the hell do i need? I tried getting an e clip on the end of it but there's not enough room.
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Year: '99 and '91
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Ok so my transfer case shifter linkage is pissing me off. One of the pivot points keeps sliding out of its home and after shifting in and out of 4wd a few times ive got to slide under it and seat it back in so i can shift the t case without grinding. What the hell do i need? I tried getting an e clip on the end of it but there's not enough room.
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Can someone tell me why there are 3 different oil drain plugs listed for the XJ? I needed one for my 91. I got an m14-1.25 with a blue gasket. Is this correct?
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6