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Old 07-08-2014, 05:31 PM
  #44116  
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Originally Posted by salad
That's what we call rust up here. Oil isn't red. Time to flush your cooling system and use 50/50 instead of whatever tap water was in there before (or just really old 50/50). The 4.0L can't really leak oil into the coolant without coolant getting into the oil. It's more likely to dump coolant into oil and the rad stay clean.
Boom. There's your answer. +1 Salad.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:09 PM
  #44117  
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Originally Posted by Silver[]lllllll[]
So I am dropping the tranny on my 2000 with the aw4 and I have been fighting the passenger side e12 bolt for an hour now. Any body else have this same problem? Or is it just more of my
XJ luck. Any help would be awesome before I take a battering ram to the whole thing
The bolt is likely in a bind. Adjust or move supports to release tension.
It helps to remove the Torx bolts first.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:49 PM
  #44118  
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Originally Posted by salad
Dana 30 is not a C-clip axle, you unbolt the unit bearings and slide the whole assembly out. No gear oil required.

As for joints 5-260X is the only size that will fit up to about 1995/1996 if you don't have ABS. ABS models and all years newer will take 5-760X or the less strong OE 5-297X. Since some shafts have been swapped you want yo make sure to measure your U joint cap diameter before going in.
Ah ok, i thought the 297x's were the larger version that was also used in the 96 and older ones. So basically ive got the 260x. How do you get the larger ones to work? Just new shafts?

The only reason im concerned is because i will be locking the front soon along with the rear, stock 3.55 gears and 33s. Id rather do what i can to make sure nothing explodes on me.

Last edited by Eagle564; 07-08-2014 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:14 PM
  #44119  
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Ah ok, i thought the 297x's were the larger version that was also used in the 96 and older ones. So basically ive got the 260x. How do you get the larger ones to work? Just new shafts?

The only reason im concerned is because i will be locking the front soon along with the rear, stock 3.55 gears and 33s. Id rather do what i can to make sure nothing explodes on me.
Your '96 should use the larger style joint. Did you measure?
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:40 PM
  #44120  
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Anyone know if all year jeep xj AW4 transmissions have the same valve body?
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:24 PM
  #44121  
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My muffler fell off. Just looking at a direct fit replacement to the tune of 26" if I am reading correct. What type of high temp sealant is good to use to seal the pipe fittings? RTV?

It broke off just past the CAT, so I'll be sticking the muffler flange to that tube after some sanding, then getting a new tail pipe. I'll have to rig up my hanger too as that's what broke off which made it all fall apart.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:48 PM
  #44122  
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Anyone know if all year jeep xj AW4 transmissions have the same valve body?
Try this page? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

Originally Posted by kgm
What type of high temp sealant is good to use to seal the pipe fittings? RTV?
Um... steel wire...? lol RTV exhaust

Buy an application-specific muffler if you want an OEM fit. I think more important, though, is how rotten is the rest of your stuff that it actually fell off? Time for a new exhaust maybe? lol
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:55 PM
  #44123  
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Yeah my exhaust headers are busted but my cat seems to work fine? It was roaring but my o2 sensors and all that show no codes. I can't really afford to do that anyway. I'm trying to squeeze in a new coolant system this year and this didn't help. It broke off cause I was dirt roading it in the mtns this weekend and it snapped my exhaust hanger from the looks of its broke off piece and the dragging muffler....

I was hoping for an alternative besides welding it. I don't want to pay for this crap to get installed. Ha ha.

Edit: What's a full exhaust install run? My header is cracked, new muffler & cat, and piping?

Last edited by kgm; 07-08-2014 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:13 AM
  #44124  
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Originally Posted by salad

That's what we call rust up here. Oil isn't red. Time to flush your cooling system and use 50/50 instead of whatever tap water was in there before (or just really old 50/50).

The 4.0L can't really leak oil into the coolant without coolant getting into the oil. It's more likely to dump coolant into oil and the rad stay clean.
Oh it's red?

This would be so much easier if I weren't colorblind...
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:33 AM
  #44125  
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Originally Posted by salad
Your '96 should use the larger style joint. Did you measure?
I tried, tape measures dont work too well for accuracy in the hundredths or more lol. Im gonna see if the rotor mic at work will work tomorrow.
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:57 AM
  #44126  
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Originally Posted by kgm
Yeah my exhaust headers are busted but my cat seems to work fine? It was roaring but my o2 sensors and all that show no codes. I can't really afford to do that anyway. I'm trying to squeeze in a new coolant system this year and this didn't help. It broke off cause I was dirt roading it in the mtns this weekend and it snapped my exhaust hanger from the looks of its broke off piece and the dragging muffler....

I was hoping for an alternative besides welding it. I don't want to pay for this crap to get installed. Ha ha.

Edit: What's a full exhaust install run? My header is cracked, new muffler & cat, and piping?
No idea on what that cost would be, not $30 though lol. Performance-curve.com I think has almost all of the parts. A local shop might be able to do you for less. If your cat works don't mess with it.

Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
Oh it's red?

This would be so much easier if I weren't colorblind...
Ahhh. Yes it's cakey crap and very rusty lookin'. Cast iron sediment.

Originally Posted by Eagle564
I tried, tape measures dont work too well for accuracy in the hundredths or more lol. Im gonna see if the rotor mic at work will work tomorrow.
Hundredths? Size chart at the bottom here for your reference: http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:54 AM
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Anyone with RC shackle relocation kit, how much lift did it give you? Trying to get an idea of what my rear end is going to look like (lol). If I'd need a spacer for the front or not. Going to be running stock HD rear leafs, those relocation boxes and a shackle. I'm hoping no more than 3" lift total.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:46 AM
  #44128  
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Default 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ water on front passenger floor

Hello - I recently attempted to repair my a/c in my cherokee and using a/c sealer and a/c charger. The good news is that it worked and is blowing cold, but now the passenger floor is filling with water. I have read alot about this issue. It is certainly related to the a/c fix. I would like to try to clean the a/c drip plug as I understand that might be the issue.

Can someone tell me where it is and how to access it? Pictures would be great.

Thanks!
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:58 AM
  #44129  
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Look low on the firewall under the hood opposite your drip. You didn't list your the yr of your XJ. Some tubes are in the frame and some aren't.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:00 PM
  #44130  
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Originally Posted by salad

Hundredths? Size chart at the bottom here for your reference: http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm
1.066 inch cap size or 1.188 or somethin along those lines. Very close to the same size, definitely not noticeable on a tape measure. Unless I had both with me and could see which one is larger.
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