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XJ Ask the Question Thread
07-14-2014, 07:18 PM
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Semi cold engine (turned on at approx 110 on the gauge) - 1/4 spin maybe manually pushing fan.
Hot turned off engine (210 on gauge for a few minutes) - even less of a spin. Maybe 1/8th of a turn.
Fan behavior on power down: spun maybe 3 times as the engine quieted down. Seemed to come to a decently quick end. Didn't spin free or anything like that.
Hot turned off engine (210 on gauge for a few minutes) - even less of a spin. Maybe 1/8th of a turn.
Fan behavior on power down: spun maybe 3 times as the engine quieted down. Seemed to come to a decently quick end. Didn't spin free or anything like that.
07-14-2014, 07:52 PM
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Two things. They wear out gradually and there is no verifiable way to test them. That said mine stops within one revolution and is just over a yr old.
07-14-2014, 08:08 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The MC and booster on there were both sourced from a JY when I got rid of ABS. So its definitely possible.
Are those typical symptoms of a bad MC? I mean it almost has to be MC or booster I guess, no leaks and the only questionable part would be the wheel cylinders and I don't think they would cause that.
Are those typical symptoms of a bad MC? I mean it almost has to be MC or booster I guess, no leaks and the only questionable part would be the wheel cylinders and I don't think they would cause that.
07-14-2014, 09:42 PM
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
From what I've been reading this definitely sounds like the problem. I might just swap in the dual diaphragm boost and MC from my parts jeep. Suck though I know I'm going to have run some new lines, the ports on are opposite sides lol.
Thanks guys.
07-14-2014, 10:30 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That makes perfect sense. So I guess we could rule put booster. Its VERY easy to push. If I pump the pedal it gets stiffer but fades quick and I can still push pedal to the floor with ease.
From what I've been reading this definitely sounds like the problem. I might just swap in the dual diaphragm boost and MC from my parts jeep. Suck though I know I'm going to have run some new lines, the ports on are opposite sides lol.
Thanks guys.
From what I've been reading this definitely sounds like the problem. I might just swap in the dual diaphragm boost and MC from my parts jeep. Suck though I know I'm going to have run some new lines, the ports on are opposite sides lol.
Thanks guys.
07-14-2014, 10:37 PM
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
07-14-2014, 10:39 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Brake line fittings are metric at the cylinder. You will have to put SAE ends on for the prop valve.
07-14-2014, 10:45 PM
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Year: '99 and '91
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At least they're small ones.
07-15-2014, 10:18 AM
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Any reason not to go with a 1 row TYC rad from rockauto? Anything better for similar price? I'm not offroading, but I do drive in the mountains alot. They're cheap on there, but probably better than my 15 year old radiator...
07-15-2014, 11:38 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
07-15-2014, 11:38 AM
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Model: Cherokee
Good lord I wonder if this isn't my issue.. 99 so no coil rail, but I've had this slowly increasing/worsening ROUGH running now with no start. Got multiple misfire codes as well and now no start. New everything, just did CPS yesterday in a vain attempt to get it running. Guess I need a mm and a fsm.. Thanks for posting this. Gives me hope.
07-15-2014, 11:43 AM
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kgm,
Here's all you need. Lifetime warrenty and if anything would happen you wouldn't have to ship it back.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...266534_0_13752
Here's all you need. Lifetime warrenty and if anything would happen you wouldn't have to ship it back.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...266534_0_13752
07-15-2014, 11:48 AM
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0