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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 523
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Which radiator is the best?
Mishimoto 2 core
Vista-pro 2 core
Champion 2 core
CSF 2 core
I've read to many on the fence reviews about the flowkooler water pump, so where can I get a good quality OEM replacement?
Mishimoto 2 core
Vista-pro 2 core
Champion 2 core
CSF 2 core
I've read to many on the fence reviews about the flowkooler water pump, so where can I get a good quality OEM replacement?
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Everyone loves CSF, but I've always gone to my local CarQuest and bought warrantied radiators with all the fittings brazed on.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 3,500
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Get your vehicle warmed up and start shaking harnesses. If it happens again then it's probably a short, otherwise most likely a cps problem.
Id pull the cps off and take a look at it. Sometimes metal shavings can get on it and give weird readings causing stuff like that to happen. If it looks fine then replace it or not on your discretion.
Id pull the cps off and take a look at it. Sometimes metal shavings can get on it and give weird readings causing stuff like that to happen. If it looks fine then replace it or not on your discretion.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Beach, Ca
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Get your vehicle warmed up and start shaking harnesses. If it happens again then it's probably a short, otherwise most likely a cps problem.
Id pull the cps off and take a look at it. Sometimes metal shavings can get on it and give weird readings causing stuff like that to happen. If it looks fine then replace it or not on your discretion.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
No, sorry. Misread the above posts. Your thing is most likely a short or something electrical. Im not quite sure where the engine reads rpms, but your speedo is attached to your tcase or transmission depending on 2wd or 4wd jeeps. Id start there and work towards the guages looking for issues with the wiring.
2000 jeep grand cherokee laredo
Cant get car to start, have changed ignition switch, replaced pcm and several other things, i'm at a loss, the key light on the dash stays on and after a few seconds the check engine light comes on but it wont connect to the computer to get the codes, I suspect it could be a bad chip in my key but I only have one and dealer says ill have to have it towed in and hooked up to make a new key, all i'm seeing is $ signs with that. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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Location: Long Beach, Ca
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
No, sorry. Misread the above posts. Your thing is most likely a short or something electrical. Im not quite sure where the engine reads rpms, but your speedo is attached to your tcase or transmission depending on 2wd or 4wd jeeps. Id start there and work towards the guages looking for issues with the wiring.
Beach Bum
Cant get car to start, have changed ignition switch, replaced pcm and several other things, i'm at a loss, the key light on the dash stays on and after a few seconds the check engine light comes on but it wont connect to the computer to get the codes, I suspect it could be a bad chip in my key but I only have one and dealer says ill have to have it towed in and hooked up to make a new key, all i'm seeing is $ signs with that. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: St. Louis
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
95 Cherokee Country won't start.
Hello.
I'm new, and I'm in trouble here...
I have a 95 Cherokee Country I bought for my daughter back in march of this year.
Last thursday night after the baseball game, it would not start. It would crank over, but not start.
I had it towed back home. I worked on a loose positive cable on the battery terminal. Then I checked codes.
I had a code 12 and a code 54.
Looking at parts at Oreilley's website, they had no camshaft sensor available for this Cherokee. I don't think it has one in this distributor.
I checked the rotor, it turns when cranking.
I replaced the Coil due to cracking.
I replaced the Distributor pickup, hoping that might be the problem.
I replaced the cap and rotor because I was there.
I replaced the ignition wires because I had a coil wire that was arcing.
The result was no start.
No spark at all.
No noid to test fuel injectors, but I smell fuel.
The auto shutdown relay is not holding in when starting.
I tried resetting the alarm system with 3 presses of the passenger side unlock button. No joy.
I tried looking under the dash by the driver's kick panel for a purple and yellow wire coming from a black plug, to ground it out to see if that would get the Auto Shutdown relay to hold. I couldn't find a purple and blue wire.
When I was looking for a ballast resistor for the fuel pump, I found a corroded wire going to the annunciator on the alarm. The siren.
I hooked up a clip and joined the corroded pieces which were terminated to ground at the annunciator, and the Cherokee started! This was a white wire with a black stripe, coming out of the firewall, to the red wire on the annunciator, and the black wire on the annunciator terminated at ground.
It ran for a day. Ran great.
Monday, Katie and I went somewhere, and when I got in to start the Jeep, it just cranked and didn't start.
I opened the hood, and the wire from the annunciator to ground, the ground was a little loose. Wiggling it didn't do it.
I bared the white wire with black stripe at the point where I soldered it to the red annunciator wire, and grounded it on the brake master cylinder. It started and got us home, with the Engine light on the whole way home.
I cut the white and black wire from the annunciator and tried grounding it at the annunciator, and it wouldn't start.
I noticed the grounding point for 2 terminals by the Control module on the drivers inner fender. I went to ground it there, and gently pulled the white wire a little to make the distance. It felt really loose.
Well, out of the firewall it came! It looked like it had been cut with scissors on the other end. I don't see how it was attached to anything.
The White wire with the black stripe was wrapped in vinyl along with a green wire, and a heavier gauge white wire.
So, Now it cranks over and won't start. The Shutdown relay down't hold.
I can hear the fuel pump pump up when I turn the key on.
I have to get this thing running so she can drive back to school in Michigan this Sunday. We're in St. Louis.
I have to fix this right, and right now.
HELP!
I'm new, and I'm in trouble here...
I have a 95 Cherokee Country I bought for my daughter back in march of this year.
Last thursday night after the baseball game, it would not start. It would crank over, but not start.
I had it towed back home. I worked on a loose positive cable on the battery terminal. Then I checked codes.
I had a code 12 and a code 54.
Looking at parts at Oreilley's website, they had no camshaft sensor available for this Cherokee. I don't think it has one in this distributor.
I checked the rotor, it turns when cranking.
I replaced the Coil due to cracking.
I replaced the Distributor pickup, hoping that might be the problem.
I replaced the cap and rotor because I was there.
I replaced the ignition wires because I had a coil wire that was arcing.
The result was no start.
No spark at all.
No noid to test fuel injectors, but I smell fuel.
The auto shutdown relay is not holding in when starting.
I tried resetting the alarm system with 3 presses of the passenger side unlock button. No joy.
I tried looking under the dash by the driver's kick panel for a purple and yellow wire coming from a black plug, to ground it out to see if that would get the Auto Shutdown relay to hold. I couldn't find a purple and blue wire.
When I was looking for a ballast resistor for the fuel pump, I found a corroded wire going to the annunciator on the alarm. The siren.
I hooked up a clip and joined the corroded pieces which were terminated to ground at the annunciator, and the Cherokee started! This was a white wire with a black stripe, coming out of the firewall, to the red wire on the annunciator, and the black wire on the annunciator terminated at ground.
It ran for a day. Ran great.
Monday, Katie and I went somewhere, and when I got in to start the Jeep, it just cranked and didn't start.
I opened the hood, and the wire from the annunciator to ground, the ground was a little loose. Wiggling it didn't do it.
I bared the white wire with black stripe at the point where I soldered it to the red annunciator wire, and grounded it on the brake master cylinder. It started and got us home, with the Engine light on the whole way home.
I cut the white and black wire from the annunciator and tried grounding it at the annunciator, and it wouldn't start.
I noticed the grounding point for 2 terminals by the Control module on the drivers inner fender. I went to ground it there, and gently pulled the white wire a little to make the distance. It felt really loose.
Well, out of the firewall it came! It looked like it had been cut with scissors on the other end. I don't see how it was attached to anything.
The White wire with the black stripe was wrapped in vinyl along with a green wire, and a heavier gauge white wire.
So, Now it cranks over and won't start. The Shutdown relay down't hold.
I can hear the fuel pump pump up when I turn the key on.
I have to get this thing running so she can drive back to school in Michigan this Sunday. We're in St. Louis.
I have to fix this right, and right now.
HELP!
Last edited by CharlieS; 07-16-2014 at 08:10 PM.
Newbie
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale
Posts: 7
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 strait 6
Hey all, I got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport that seems like it needs a new Fuel Pump Module Assembly. Well, really it seems like just a filter problem but while I'm down there I figured I'd change the whole thing. So, I know to stay away from Airtech. But the only Bosch one I could find is from Napa and I'd have to get it shipped for $329.00. The only posts I've read seem to be 2+ years old so I was wondering if anyone's had any luck with some other brands recently? Namely Carter or Delphi.
Last edited by Fretman12; 07-16-2014 at 07:34 PM.
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 651
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 651
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Last 5-6 drives I have seen my temp gauge going up to the next mark, which is about 220 or so. I popped the hood and the second fan is running when its that hot. It doesn't seem to do it on highway but it has been running just sooo slightly warmer than typically for the last year. Today on the drive it got the midpoint between 210 and the next hash mark. What could be causing this? Everything? Ha ha. Is it worth it to do a coolant flush to test that, or should I just do the whole damn thing and call it good?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Denver
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah its been lowish since I got it but never moved, and I've been recently seeing some very slight overheating so I'm flushing it and replacing the coolant at the very least. Possibly WP/Rad
Last edited by kgm; 07-17-2014 at 01:35 AM.