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#31
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
I figured it would be best to rid myself of any possible problem areas.
#33
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Phil when i took mine off i wasnt sure what i was doing at first the way i did it though and worked like a champ. (P.s. thought i had blow by too before this.) ran gas through rear ccv orafice attached to valve over and through tube while off jeep off course. Then UnBolted what i thought was some kind of valve then found out that its the ccv orafice on the Intake manifold. I thought it was a valve when in fact it is just a calculated orafice . So cleaned it nice and slow.... p.s. Its a hole straight through on mine and prob yours so skinny screw driver or scribe work wonders then ran cleaner through it. HOLY CRUD when i put it back on it was like a brand new J**P. I did eventually hang my head low and buy the ccv on the valve cover and tube from dealer and that even made it better that back tube is really important also my gas milage went up after that and response.
If you have any questions regarding this anyone just ask me i will take it off and take pictures or show in tech breakdown what it is!
#34
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Blow-by occours only at highway speeds and at elevated torque requests. If you have more than 150/200 k miles you have blow-by. You can check this very easy, have someone give gas in D with brake and hand brake applied. You unplug the breather tube and if you have something coming out of it (exhaust, air, oil etc.) you have blow-by.
#35
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Blow-by occours only at highway speeds and at elevated torque requests. If you have more than 150/200 k miles you have blow-by. You can check this very easy, have someone give gas in D with brake and hand brake applied. You unplug the breather tube and if you have something coming out of it (exhaust, air, oil etc.) you have blow-by.
#36
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Yes the front one. If you just remove the filling cap like Dylan did you won't have anything coming out at idle. Even if you give some gas, won't blow. You need high torque condtion.
Last edited by fantic238; 04-27-2010 at 08:35 AM.
#37
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 lt. 242 cu.in.
Good man.
Phil when i took mine off i wasnt sure what i was doing at first the way i did it though and worked like a champ. (P.s. thought i had blow by too before this.) ran gas through rear ccv orafice attached to valve over and through tube while off jeep off course. Then UnBolted what i thought was some kind of valve then found out that its the ccv orafice on the Intake manifold. I thought it was a valve when in fact it is just a calculated orafice . So cleaned it nice and slow.... p.s. Its a hole straight through on mine and prob yours so skinny screw driver or scribe work wonders then ran cleaner through it. HOLY CRUD when i put it back on it was like a brand new J**P. I did eventually hang my head low and buy the ccv on the valve cover and tube from dealer and that even made it better that back tube is really important also my gas milage went up after that and response.
If you have any questions regarding this anyone just ask me i will take it off and take pictures or show in tech breakdown what it is!
Phil when i took mine off i wasnt sure what i was doing at first the way i did it though and worked like a champ. (P.s. thought i had blow by too before this.) ran gas through rear ccv orafice attached to valve over and through tube while off jeep off course. Then UnBolted what i thought was some kind of valve then found out that its the ccv orafice on the Intake manifold. I thought it was a valve when in fact it is just a calculated orafice . So cleaned it nice and slow.... p.s. Its a hole straight through on mine and prob yours so skinny screw driver or scribe work wonders then ran cleaner through it. HOLY CRUD when i put it back on it was like a brand new J**P. I did eventually hang my head low and buy the ccv on the valve cover and tube from dealer and that even made it better that back tube is really important also my gas milage went up after that and response.
If you have any questions regarding this anyone just ask me i will take it off and take pictures or show in tech breakdown what it is!
#38
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
#40
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
Hi, im installing my first lift. its a 4.5" RC. the front is done and im in the middle of doing the rear and i ran into two problems.
1. the front passenger side leaf bolt wont come out. i unscrewed it untill almost about where the threads are showing and it wont come out anymore. it just spinns in place. my angle grinder isnt big enough to fit in there with out hitting edges. i tryed banging it out and useing heat and nothin worked so far. any suggestions?
2. trying to lower my axle so i can atleast put in the one leaf spring i have off. i remembered i had to extend my brake lines with that bracket that comes with the kit. i got under there and looked and so far the origional bracket is welded on, theres a nut or fastener i cant really tell what it is, its all rusted together. i have no idea how to get it off.
any suggestions?
1. the front passenger side leaf bolt wont come out. i unscrewed it untill almost about where the threads are showing and it wont come out anymore. it just spinns in place. my angle grinder isnt big enough to fit in there with out hitting edges. i tryed banging it out and useing heat and nothin worked so far. any suggestions?
2. trying to lower my axle so i can atleast put in the one leaf spring i have off. i remembered i had to extend my brake lines with that bracket that comes with the kit. i got under there and looked and so far the origional bracket is welded on, theres a nut or fastener i cant really tell what it is, its all rusted together. i have no idea how to get it off.
any suggestions?
#41
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
For the Bolt is the only thing i can offer right now. If you have one laying around use a tie rod or ball joint fork and bang it out if it is spinning it is out usually. If you have heat use it on spring to try and expand metal. You mayhave to WHILE ON STAND OR AT LEAST ABOVE STANDS. Jack the axel back up so as to move the spring and take tension off then try to get it out.
I hope this helps
I hope this helps
#42
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Since the head of the bolt is already out you just need to force it a little more. If you have a chain you can hook up the bolt and pull it with a weight. A slide hammer would be better though.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.
#43
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
Since the head of the bolt is already out you just need to force it a little more. If you have a chain you can hook up the bolt and pull it with a weight. A slide hammer would be better though.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.
thanks man (:
#44
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Since the head of the bolt is already out you just need to force it a little more. If you have a chain you can hook up the bolt and pull it with a weight. A slide hammer would be better though.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.
That fastener is a c clip that you have to pull to free the line from the bracket.
#45
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter High Output
Rough shift
When I am driving and stop at a redlight, stop light w/e and then take of it will rev then shift kinda rough does anyone have an idea about this?
and this thread is a great idea will help prevent useless threads that can be answered once then done
and this thread is a great idea will help prevent useless threads that can be answered once then done