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Old 04-29-2011, 09:02 AM
  #4486  
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Originally Posted by '93 XJ
I have a '93 XJ country and my front, passenger side axle u-joint is effed. Is it hard to replace this or can I do this on my own?
Not hard, mine took about 6 hours with a friend taking my time. Hardest part was getting the hub off and pressing out the old (factory!!!) u-joint.

You'll need a 34mm socket for the hub nut, and soak everthing in PB Blaster for a week before attempting. Be prepared with air tools are at least a long breaker bar.

This should help you understand what's involved:
http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?pa...nt-replacement
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm
http://www.delta4x4club.com/TECH/UNIVERSAL/UJOINTS.php

Last edited by dukie564; 04-29-2011 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:12 AM
  #4487  
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Originally Posted by -Dom-
How do I know what is wrong with my ac.
It only blows heat.
I hear the compressor kick on but no cold air.
Not even warm it's HOT!!
sounds like your blend door isn't operating.

check your vacuum lines / vacuum canister for breaks / leaks
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:17 AM
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So I am trying to patch a gas tank, ran it till it was out if gas, sanded the spot a little and it is now leaking like a sieve, how much gas can I assume is left in the tank?
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:21 AM
  #4489  
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probably about a gallon or so

how are you patching it with the tank on the vehicle? that sounds like a recipe for disaster.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:24 AM
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With permatex tank repair crap, just want it to stop leaking so I can get it somewhere I can pull the tank off and replace it.

Will the newer plastic tanks fit a 92?

Last edited by squigles; 04-29-2011 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 04-29-2011, 01:25 PM
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Ok everyone... I have never posted before but I've read a ton and you guys are awesome. I have been able to fix just about everything that has gone wrong by doing searches on this forum. The problem is I'm way stuck at this point and need some help. This is going to be a long one (that's what she said!) but I think I have do say everything that has happened and everything I've done to correct the problem (unsuccessfully). I own a 1999 XJ with the AWD tranny, 4.0 HO. I recently was driving on the highway when suddenly my vehicle started stuttering and turning itself off. Several times the check gauges warning light would turn on and the voltage would top out. I would stop and was able to restart the vehicle normally and would idle well but when I would get over 40 mph it would start to sputter out. I ended up having to tow the thing home and ended up connecting it to the computer. Well the computer told me that the crankshaft/camshaft sensors weren't communicating. I changed both but it did not correct my problem (even after I reset the codes and disconnected the battery). After all of this the jeep started misfiring and now does not idle well...it seems to have a miss. I disconnected the sparkplugs one at a time to see if that would make a difference (holy shiite that hurts!). None of them seemed to make a major difference. Now the computer reads out low voltage across throttle position sensor (also replaced), crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, and a problem with neutral safety switch (rebuilt). I think that they all run off of 5v or something like that and I don't think all the switches would go out all at once. I have an older battery and wondered if a bad cell (its a redtop) might cause this but the only problem with the battery after it was checked was low cranking amps. As you can see this is very frustrating and I really need some help. Anyway sorry for the long post...I look forward to your comments and suggestions
Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-29-2011, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
First uncsrew your tilt arm if you have one.Then Look under the trim, There is three holes. You need a torx 15 screwdriver I believe. After that gently open.In the back there are two snap hooks you will need to squeeze to open.Then your in.Good luck.

Negative ghost rider..... going to have to pull the steering wheel and dismember the column
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Old 04-29-2011, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by martinem1223
Ok everyone... I have never posted before but I've read a ton and you guys are awesome. I have been able to fix just about everything that has gone wrong by doing searches on this forum. The problem is I'm way stuck at this point and need some help. This is going to be a long one (that's what she said!) but I think I have do say everything that has happened and everything I've done to correct the problem (unsuccessfully). I own a 1999 XJ with the AWD tranny, 4.0 HO. I recently was driving on the highway when suddenly my vehicle started stuttering and turning itself off. Several times the check gauges warning light would turn on and the voltage would top out. I would stop and was able to restart the vehicle normally and would idle well but when I would get over 40 mph it would start to sputter out. I ended up having to tow the thing home and ended up connecting it to the computer. Well the computer told me that the crankshaft/camshaft sensors weren't communicating. I changed both but it did not correct my problem (even after I reset the codes and disconnected the battery). After all of this the jeep started misfiring and now does not idle well...it seems to have a miss. I disconnected the sparkplugs one at a time to see if that would make a difference (holy shiite that hurts!). None of them seemed to make a major difference. Now the computer reads out low voltage across throttle position sensor (also replaced), crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, and a problem with neutral safety switch (rebuilt). I think that they all run off of 5v or something like that and I don't think all the switches would go out all at once. I have an older battery and wondered if a bad cell (its a redtop) might cause this but the only problem with the battery after it was checked was low cranking amps. As you can see this is very frustrating and I really need some help. Anyway sorry for the long post...I look forward to your comments and suggestions
Thanks in advance!
Wow that's a lot, but in this case a lot is good because it makes the solution easy to diagnose.

You have a bad ground or grounds(s) somewhere. That's the only common connection between your issues. There are three main ones you need to check:

1) Black wire running between the battery (-) terminal and the fender.
2) Copper strap running from the driver's side rear post of the valve cover to the firewall.
3) The bolt holding up the oil check tube is also used as a ground for various sensors.

In each case, unbolt each end of the wire, and clean the connectors with sandpaper till they are shiny. Do the same to the spots the wires connect to (remove paint if necessary). Also cut a bit of the insulation off the wiring and check the condition of the wire itself - if it's green and crusty you need to replace the wire with a new one.


Additionally, i strongly suggest you purchase new battery terminals, and clean up the battery posts in the same fashion as the grounds before reattaching them. Don't ask me why but cleaning the terminals sometimes isn't enough.
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Old 04-29-2011, 05:06 PM
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Default I believe you miss read.

Originally Posted by duafacia
Seems I have the starting woes everyone else does....

Already replaced/fixed:

Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)

Next is the ignition switch and relay.

Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.

Do I have to remove the steering wheel??

I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.
Hes trying to take the trim around the steering column off.
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Old 04-29-2011, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
Hes trying to take the trim around the steering column off.
you are OP sorry. Thats how my trim comes off
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:52 PM
  #4496  
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can i run without my front axle shafts?
u joints are shot and one ear is cracked
i assume if i just plug the axle tube i'd be safe for a few days, and i don't plan to wheel before i put them back.
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:53 PM
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Default HELP

I tried what was recommended and cleaned all the grounds that I could locate. Nothing happening. I did hear an exhaust leak however and I wonder if that could have anything to do with it. Unfortunately..I think this is going to have to go to the pros. I am going to check the compression on the cylinders tomorrow and if I can't find anything happening there then...its off to the shop. This hurts my pride pretty bad! If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know. Thanks again.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:23 PM
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Default Engine shuts off

MY stepdads jeep, 2.5 hours away, trying to help and going up in 10 days to look at it.

Model - 97 XJ w/ 4.0L.
Symptoms - He says while he's driving it will just shut off - the engine just dies. When pulling to the side of the road, he can start it back up every time no problem. He said it's happens anytime the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd (auto tranny). He said it will shift, and ~20 seconds later it will die. Told him to put it in 2nd and see if it still dies, it does.
It's also throwing the following codes (had to have my little brother check them):

12, 43, 11, 43, 21, and then 55 - in that order.

Things he's replaced - TPS, PCM, coils, plugs, and probably a few other things too that's he's forgotten about.

My thought is the crank position sensor. The jeep hasn't been driven much since the PCM replacement, but that didn't fix the problem. I figure the CPS is messin up, which is causing the ASD to kill the Jeep, and could also be the cause of the code 43 (misfire), since the CPS controls spark. He also hasn't replaced the crank sensor.

So anyone ever experienced anything similar?

Also - what is the location of the CPS and test procedure? He talked to some guy who got it in his head that it's a sensor or something in the tranny, and wants me to help him swap it. If that's what is wrong I have no problem doing it, but if it's not going to fix the problem, I'd rather not do the work.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by basic
MY stepdads jeep, 2.5 hours away, trying to help and going up in 10 days to look at it.

Model - 97 XJ w/ 4.0L.
Symptoms - He says while he's driving it will just shut off - the engine just dies. When pulling to the side of the road, he can start it back up every time no problem. He said it's happens anytime the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd (auto tranny). He said it will shift, and ~20 seconds later it will die. Told him to put it in 2nd and see if it still dies, it does.
It's also throwing the following codes (had to have my little brother check them):

12, 43, 11, 43, 21, and then 55 - in that order.

Things he's replaced - TPS, PCM, coils, plugs, and probably a few other things too that's he's forgotten about.

My thought is the crank position sensor. The jeep hasn't been driven much since the PCM replacement, but that didn't fix the problem. I figure the CPS is messin up, which is causing the ASD to kill the Jeep, and could also be the cause of the code 43 (misfire), since the CPS controls spark. He also hasn't replaced the crank sensor.

So anyone ever experienced anything similar?

Also - what is the location of the CPS and test procedure? He talked to some guy who got it in his head that it's a sensor or something in the tranny, and wants me to help him swap it. If that's what is wrong I have no problem doing it, but if it's not going to fix the problem, I'd rather not do the work.
Welcome to CF.
Code 21 is a faulty O2 sensor or wiring circuit.
This tells how to test the CPS, and it's location.

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Old 04-30-2011, 09:15 AM
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Default Front lift question

I am about to do a 3" front lift on my 98 XJ.

I have V8-ZJ coils & some 1.75" spacers ready to go.

I borrowed a coil spring compressor from the local parts store.

My question is this. When lowering the front axle and forcing it down a ways with a jack to help get the springs out, do I absolutely have to separate the front driveshaft at the axle yolk?

In other words will the driveshaft U-joints take a lot of droop, or should I just go ahead & disconnect it?

I will check back in a bit, thanks.
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