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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Why? Such a minor upgrade and very hard to find. For a slushbox turning 31s or 32s you're better off with 4.10:1. Easier to locate too.
To a search on here for the V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade. You'll find some Moog part numers.
Dodge Dakota and the KJ Liberty also came with the 8.25. There are some minor differences. The KJ 8.25 was available with disc brakes so they're a direct swap!
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Eh? Not sure what you're talking about... if you have 4.10:1 from an axle like an XJ uses you can certainly swap them in.
Stock AMC 20 yo
I still don't understand your fascination with an increase of 0.18:1 over stock (for an auto). That's the kind of regearing you do to run 30s...
I understand you have a 2001 with LP axle but keep in mind that 3.73:1 reverse-cut gears can be found complete in ancient-*** Renix and in YJ axles with the vacuum disconnect, weaker diff housing, and small U joints (problems that must be addressed). So either you need to combined two axles, OR you're shelling out the cost to set up a 0.18 increase in gears... makes no sense.
The carrier split on the Dana 30 is 3.54:1 and down, and 3.55:1 and up. Automatic XJs are counted as 3.55:1 and have the "nice" carrier. So unless you have a stick there's no difference. Again, you'd just be paying for a 0.18 increase, and either hundreds of dollars in setup and bearings, or a downgrade in axle housing... makes no sense.
And unless you can find an XJ D44 for dirt cheap they're not that great. Sure there's the huge Dana 44 aftermarket (haha except disc brakes!) but they're on par with a 29-spline C8.25 which I can pick up for $80. Slap dirt cheap common disc brakes on an C8.25 and if a shaft breaks your wheel won't fly off and you can stay on the trail. OR, since they're common as ****, just carry a spare shaft... problem solved. Still cheaper than an XJ D44, which last time I looked, average asking price was $300-400 and the drum brakes needed work.
If you want a complete set of 4.10:1 axles look for an XJ that had the 2.5L gas engine. Presto. Now THAT makes sense. Gears set up for larger tires or offroad climbing rather than making up for a Wrangler's ultra aerodynamic shape or a few extra hundred pounds payload. 3.73:1 really is to just make the transmission shift less in certain situations. Changing from 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 is not like "OH MY GOD THE POWER!!!111~" its more like "Oh hey it runs a little higher RPM I guess.
Plug the numbers in here and see what I mean: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
I agree. But id rather start with the 3.73 since they Re there and iirc that carrier can accept 4.10s easily and its a d44 and hp30 combo. That's the benefit part. They do exist. This gun in my club just scored a 87 with em. Plus he had a source on one in a state close by. Not saying details just in case he planning on scooping that one up.
I understand you have a 2001 with LP axle but keep in mind that 3.73:1 reverse-cut gears can be found complete in ancient-*** Renix and in YJ axles with the vacuum disconnect, weaker diff housing, and small U joints (problems that must be addressed). So either you need to combined two axles, OR you're shelling out the cost to set up a 0.18 increase in gears... makes no sense.
The carrier split on the Dana 30 is 3.54:1 and down, and 3.55:1 and up. Automatic XJs are counted as 3.55:1 and have the "nice" carrier. So unless you have a stick there's no difference. Again, you'd just be paying for a 0.18 increase, and either hundreds of dollars in setup and bearings, or a downgrade in axle housing... makes no sense.
And unless you can find an XJ D44 for dirt cheap they're not that great. Sure there's the huge Dana 44 aftermarket (haha except disc brakes!) but they're on par with a 29-spline C8.25 which I can pick up for $80. Slap dirt cheap common disc brakes on an C8.25 and if a shaft breaks your wheel won't fly off and you can stay on the trail. OR, since they're common as ****, just carry a spare shaft... problem solved. Still cheaper than an XJ D44, which last time I looked, average asking price was $300-400 and the drum brakes needed work.
If you want a complete set of 4.10:1 axles look for an XJ that had the 2.5L gas engine. Presto. Now THAT makes sense. Gears set up for larger tires or offroad climbing rather than making up for a Wrangler's ultra aerodynamic shape or a few extra hundred pounds payload. 3.73:1 really is to just make the transmission shift less in certain situations. Changing from 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 is not like "OH MY GOD THE POWER!!!111~" its more like "Oh hey it runs a little higher RPM I guess.
Plug the numbers in here and see what I mean: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Eh? Not sure what you're talking about... if you have 4.10:1 from an axle like an XJ uses you can certainly swap them in.
Stock AMC 20 yo
I still don't understand your fascination with an increase of 0.18:1 over stock (for an auto). That's the kind of regearing you do to run 30s...
I understand you have a 2001 with LP axle but keep in mind that 3.73:1 reverse-cut gears can be found complete in ancient-*** Renix and in YJ axles with the vacuum disconnect, weaker diff housing, and small U joints (problems that must be addressed). So either you need to combined two axles, OR you're shelling out the cost to set up a 0.18 increase in gears... makes no sense.
The carrier split on the Dana 30 is 3.54:1 and down, and 3.55:1 and up. Automatic XJs are counted as 3.55:1 and have the "nice" carrier. So unless you have a stick there's no difference. Again, you'd just be paying for a 0.18 increase, and either hundreds of dollars in setup and bearings, or a downgrade in axle housing... makes no sense.
And unless you can find an XJ D44 for dirt cheap they're not that great. Sure there's the huge Dana 44 aftermarket (haha except disc brakes!) but they're on par with a 29-spline C8.25 which I can pick up for $80. Slap dirt cheap common disc brakes on an C8.25 and if a shaft breaks your wheel won't fly off and you can stay on the trail. OR, since they're common as ****, just carry a spare shaft... problem solved. Still cheaper than an XJ D44, which last time I looked, average asking price was $300-400 and the drum brakes needed work.
If you want a complete set of 4.10:1 axles look for an XJ that had the 2.5L gas engine. Presto. Now THAT makes sense. Gears set up for larger tires or offroad climbing rather than making up for a Wrangler's ultra aerodynamic shape or a few extra hundred pounds payload. 3.73:1 really is to just make the transmission shift less in certain situations. Changing from 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 is not like "OH MY GOD THE POWER!!!111~" its more like "Oh hey it runs a little higher RPM I guess.
Plug the numbers in here and see what I mean: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
I would build up a hp30 if i ever lifted some more for the better pinion angle.
Didnt know the 2.5 had 4.10s but makes sense. Those must be really rare.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Swapping brake parts
My xj finally bit the dust. with enough miles on it to go around the earth over 10 times I figured it was best to put her down then throw a new trans in and watch her suffer. Fortunately I picked up a much cleaner xj the day after. Minimal rust and still the same year and model. just 150k less miles on it haha. It needs some TLC for starters before I swap my suspension over and stuff. just a quick brake question for ya guys.
What is your opinion on swapping brake parts? I just did a complete swap about 6 months ago or so. so I have put maybe about 20k-25k miles on the brakes. I was planning on swapping the rotors, checking pads for wear (figure I may need new ones) and then the complete rear swap. Drum housing and all springs (Checking shoes for wear). I'd probably also get a new adjustment srew. Never got that one done last time. Any thoughts on anything else? the new xj is a 96 with only 118k
What is your opinion on swapping brake parts? I just did a complete swap about 6 months ago or so. so I have put maybe about 20k-25k miles on the brakes. I was planning on swapping the rotors, checking pads for wear (figure I may need new ones) and then the complete rear swap. Drum housing and all springs (Checking shoes for wear). I'd probably also get a new adjustment srew. Never got that one done last time. Any thoughts on anything else? the new xj is a 96 with only 118k
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Lol. Im not saying the 3.73 is the prime glory of the axles. Just the lil chocolate syrup. I was poking at the hp30 and d44 as the main course but true to the smaller u joints.
I would build up a hp30 if i ever lifted some more for the better pinion angle.
Didnt know the 2.5 had 4.10s but makes sense. Those must be really rare.
I would build up a hp30 if i ever lifted some more for the better pinion angle.
Didnt know the 2.5 had 4.10s but makes sense. Those must be really rare.
Yes older 2.5L w/ manual shipped with 4.10:1 and autos with 4.56:1. I think for 97+ Chrysler simplified it to 4.10:1 regardless of transmission.
Not sure why you think a 2.5L XJ is more rare than a 1987-1989 with factory towing package
My xj finally bit the dust. with enough miles on it to go around the earth over 10 times I figured it was best to put her down then throw a new trans in and watch her suffer. Fortunately I picked up a much cleaner xj the day after. Minimal rust and still the same year and model. just 150k less miles on it haha. It needs some TLC for starters before I swap my suspension over and stuff. just a quick brake question for ya guys.
What is your opinion on swapping brake parts? I just did a complete swap about 6 months ago or so. so I have put maybe about 20k-25k miles on the brakes. I was planning on swapping the rotors, checking pads for wear (figure I may need new ones) and then the complete rear swap. Drum housing and all springs (Checking shoes for wear). I'd probably also get a new adjustment srew. Never got that one done last time. Any thoughts on anything else? the new xj is a 96 with only 118k
What is your opinion on swapping brake parts? I just did a complete swap about 6 months ago or so. so I have put maybe about 20k-25k miles on the brakes. I was planning on swapping the rotors, checking pads for wear (figure I may need new ones) and then the complete rear swap. Drum housing and all springs (Checking shoes for wear). I'd probably also get a new adjustment srew. Never got that one done last time. Any thoughts on anything else? the new xj is a 96 with only 118k
I have a 2003 jeep grand cherokee 4.0, auto transmission.I replaced the radiator, the transmission cooling line attach to the radiator with different fittings.The new radiator has what looks like 7/16'' nipples coming out of it.Could be metric, not sure. The old connections were rubble hoses to brass fittings into the radiator. Do you know what size the connections should be or what they do to imporvise a connection.
Thanks.Ray
Thanks.Ray
CF Veteran
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
They're not even chocolate syrup dude. They're sprinkles lol.
Yes older 2.5L w/ manual shipped with 4.10:1 and autos with 4.56:1. I think for 97+ Chrysler simplified it to 4.10:1 regardless of transmission.
Not sure why you think a 2.5L XJ is more rare than a 1987-1989 with factory towing package
If the brake parts are good, they're good! Rebuild, clean, and regrease appropriately. Just be careful taking them off lol. You'll need to order a hardware kit for the rear.
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: BC Canada
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I still have my factory ordered 88XJ with tow package and off road package. I know exactly what it came with. Any questions?
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0