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Old 09-11-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
How does one keep wheels from being stuck when you take the lug nuts off?
Also is there a trick to taking them off when they're stuck? Trying to rotate the tires on my wife's tj and the front wheels are being big fat *****es lol
Are they aluminum/alloy? Slather the back with some anti-seize, back of the wheels that is.

My 91s wheels were stuck so bad the first time I took them off I had to beat em off (lol) with a sledge.
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:02 PM
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OK this may sound stupid but I wanna know ... ok so would the stock trans cross member handle being converted in to a a long arm cross member ? I know I would have to weld the tabs for arms but could it handle it ?
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Celticclove
OK this may sound stupid but I wanna know ... ok so would the stock trans cross member handle being converted in to a a long arm cross member ? I know I would have to weld the tabs for arms but could it handle it ?
Short answer-no
Those drive line bolts cannot Handel the weight of the suspension and the drive line.
I would also not want to weld any structural mounts to the stock crossmember, seems kind of light for that kind of stuff
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 884x4

Short answer-no
Those drive line bolts cannot Handel the weight of the suspension and the drive line.
I would also not want to weld any structural mounts to the stock crossmember, seems kind of light for that kind of stuff
OK not to fight your logic but just to add some more theory .. so what if I weld a second plate to the cross member and putting more bolts up on the side ? Also I was looking and the metal on the cross member seems to be the same thickness as the tabs on the axle ...
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Celticclove

OK not to fight your logic but just to add some more theory .. so what if I weld a second plate to the cross member and putting more bolts up on the side ? Also I was looking and the metal on the cross member seems to be the same thickness as the tabs on the axle ...
The tabs on the axle should be replaced if your wheeling it anyway
But I feel like it would be more trouble than it's worth trying to get that stock crossmember to hold your entire front end lol
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:38 PM
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On an 01, the power steering resovouir, is it only held on by the one bolt with that tab???
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 884x4

The tabs on the axle should be replaced if your wheeling it anyway
But I feel like it would be more trouble than it's worth trying to get that stock crossmember to hold your entire front end lol
OK cool won't do it ... next question I'm build a crossmember based off the Clayton off road one ... but better lol ... now I noticed that the Clayton CM has no kick out under the transfer case like the stock CM is that important or get rid of the kick out ?
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:15 PM
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I want doors with full glass for my 90 Comanche, not the partial fixed front glass I currently have. I am tall, and it blocks my arm. What years will work? Is it up to 97 4 door Cherokees? Also, is it hard to convert to power doors? I don't have to have control of the pass side, is it just setting up switched 12 volts via a relay to the door?
Thanks, Dan
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 89 comanche
I want doors with full glass for my 90 Comanche, not the partial fixed front glass I currently have. I am tall, and it blocks my arm. What years will work? Is it up to 97 4 door Cherokees? Also, is it hard to convert to power doors? I don't have to have control of the pass side, is it just setting up switched 12 volts via a relay to the door?
Thanks, Dan
You want only one side window in the door?

If so, that's 97 and later. Some fab work is needed on the striker if that's the case.

Since you're a big guy, be aware that the 97 and later doors intrude more into the cab.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Celticclove
OK this may sound stupid but I wanna know ... ok so would the stock trans cross member handle being converted in to a a long arm cross member ? I know I would have to weld the tabs for arms but could it handle it ?
You want to put the brunt of your axle's impacts onto four rusty-*** 8 mm bolts into nutserts on the other side of some sheet metal... no lol

Originally Posted by 884x4
Those drive line bolts cannot Handel the weight of the suspension and the drive line.
They cannot Handel the stress but they would be baroque if you tried it.
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
They cannot Handel the stress but they would be baroque if you tried it.
I see what you did there...
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks

So i was reading this:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...98/?styleid=16
And i think i figured out why my heat has been coming out cold this week... is there a way to fix or replace that sliding tab?
Thanks for any replies!
Any thoughts?
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:20 AM
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Yesterday I took my XJ for a hard test drive to make sure nothing is wrong with it. One problem I had was after hard acceleration up to 5-7k rpm, around 60-90kph the engine would die. There was no rough running, or anything like that, and it would start right up after. Any ideas?
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf427
Yesterday I took my XJ for a hard test drive to make sure nothing is wrong with it. One problem I had was after hard acceleration up to 5-7k rpm, around 60-90kph the engine would die. There was no rough running, or anything like that, and it would start right up after. Any ideas?
I suggest that you're full of ****.
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:32 AM
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No ****. 5K is the death zone. 7K is imminent destruction.
Are those metric RPM's?
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