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Old 09-24-2014, 04:28 PM
  #45661  
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4
The Efan doesn't kick on until 220.. Your fine eitheir way. It's just a backup
218°F
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4
The Efan doesn't kick on until 220.. Your fine eitheir way. It's just a backup
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
218°F
Okay, so since my efan is now manually operated it's not the end of the world if i forget to turn it on?
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks

Okay, so since my efan is now manually operated it's not the end of the world if i forget to turn it on?
If you stay below 220, you're fine. If it creeps, hit the fan and start diagnosing the problem when you get a chance
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
If you stay below 220, you're fine. If it creeps, hit the fan and start diagnosing the problem when you get a chance
Cool...just put a new water pump in yesterday because it was leaking. Everything else is golden though [emoji12]
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:19 PM
  #45665  
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Default Transfer case linkage keeps falling apart

It's happened the last 3 times I've been in 4 wheel drive. The first time i replaced all the linkage components, the second time I replaced a bent cross member on the transmission thinking the linkage was getting caught on something, the third time I just put it back together in 2WD.

Whats happening is the rubber grommet that holds the whole linkage together keeps popping out. This makes it so the linkage is no longer connected to the transfer case and rather than sliding back and forth, parallel to the transmission, it ends up just twisting in place.

Is there a part or jerry rigged way of replacing the grommet on the linkage with something that will stop falling out of place?

Thanks
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:09 PM
  #45666  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
218°F
Thanks, I was way off.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:11 PM
  #45667  
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Originally Posted by soggy
It's happened the last 3 times I've been in 4 wheel drive. The first time i replaced all the linkage components, the second time I replaced a bent cross member on the transmission thinking the linkage was getting caught on something, the third time I just put it back together in 2WD.

Whats happening is the rubber grommet that holds the whole linkage together keeps popping out. This makes it so the linkage is no longer connected to the transfer case and rather than sliding back and forth, parallel to the transmission, it ends up just twisting in place.

Is there a part or jerry rigged way of replacing the grommet on the linkage with something that will stop falling out of place?

Thanks
There's an upgraded bushing kit covered in a TSB.

Gotta ask though.
How are your motor mounts and trans mount?
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4
Thanks, I was way off.
Yep. You should be ashamed
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RSWiser
Took my Jeep to a mechanic shop. He did some diagnostics and found that my AC Compressor was struggling to keep up and it was causing the AC to over heat which in turn was causing the radiator to heat up. Find out Saturday when I go for a trail ride if this did the trick. RSWiser

Another short trail ride. After replacing my AC compressor. Started up the trail. Temp was holding at 212. Mild climbing dirt road. Temp started climbing, got to 220. No problem. Stopped to turn around. Next 20 seconds, the Temp went to max and Check Gauges light came on. Started down trail and in 20 seconds I was back to 220 temp.

What is causing me to overhead, only when there is mild stress on the engine. Does not overheat while idling for just driving around. Only when I start up hill. No antifreeze in oil.

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Old 09-24-2014, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RSWiser
Another short trail ride. After replacing my AC compressor. Started up the trail. Temp was holding at 212. Mild climbing dirt road. Temp started climbing, got to 220. No problem. Stopped to turn around. Next 20 seconds, the Temp went to max and Check Gauges light came on. Started down trail and in 20 seconds I was back to 220 temp.

What is causing me to overhead, only when there is mild stress on the engine. Does not overheat while idling for just driving around. Only when I start up hill. No antifreeze in oil.

RSWiser
How old are your cooling system components? Specifically fan clutch, water pump, and when was the last flush.

Are you running large tires on stock gears with an automatic transmission?
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:34 PM
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It takes my jeep about 9-14 cranks to start normally in the morning. If i turn it off after driving it 10 minutes then turn it back on it takes 2-5 cranks. Does this sound normal?
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
It takes my jeep about 9-14 cranks to start normally in the morning. If i turn it off after driving it 10 minutes then turn it back on it takes 2-5 cranks. Does this sound normal?
Nope. You're losing fuel pressure while sitting either from leaking fuel injectors or fuel pump check valve.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:29 PM
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I broke 1 of my crossmember bolts. Luckily its the actual bolt head that broke which threads into (I assume) a welded nut-sert on the frame rail.

Can I punch this nut out and replace it ala the rear shock attachment point?

I am going to drill it out tomorrow and attempt this, but figured I'd ask first. I have a spare bolt that is the same size so I'm just going to toss it in there via some copper wire.
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Old 09-25-2014, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
How old are your cooling system components? Specifically fan clutch, water pump, and when was the last flush. Are you running large tires on stock gears with an automatic transmission?

I removed the Fan Clutch and installed three electric fans no problems until lately. Replaced water pump 3 years ago. Flushed when I replaced radiator earlier this year.

32" Tires, Gears replaced to 4:10

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Old 09-25-2014, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by kgm
I broke 1 of my crossmember bolts. Luckily its the actual bolt head that broke which threads into (I assume) a welded nut-sert on the frame rail.

Can I punch this nut out and replace it ala the rear shock attachment point?

I am going to drill it out tomorrow and attempt this, but figured I'd ask first. I have a spare bolt that is the same size so I'm just going to toss it in there via some copper wire.
Yeah not really lol. The rear shock is an actual nut that's tack-welded in place. The crossmember has one nutsert and one nut (can't remember which us stud or bolt), both of which are fuly welded to a 16ga plate which is spot-welded to the frame rail. I coudn't punch it on my rusty heap if ****.

Get drillin' :thumbsdown:


Originally Posted by RSWiser
I removed the Fan Clutch and installed three electric fans no problems until lately. Replaced water pump 3 years ago. Flushed when I replaced radiator earlier this year.

32" Tires, Gears replaced to 4:10

RSWiser
Alrighty. This is spiking relatively fast right? Could be air trapped in there. I'm assuming this is related to driving up hill?
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