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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
Anyone know the bolt sizes for the rear exhaust hanger (beside the gas tank)? The front bolt fell out. These are the ones that hold the hanger on the frame.
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah not really lol. The rear shock is an actual nut that's tack-welded in place. The crossmember has one nutsert and one nut (can't remember which us stud or bolt), both of which are fuly welded to a 16ga plate which is spot-welded to the frame rail. I coudn't punch it on my rusty heap if ****.
Get drillin' :thumbsdown:
Get drillin' :thumbsdown:
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
Turns out my cylinder head is cracked, so I need a new one. The place I brought it to want $542 for the valve job, resurface, and magnaflux, with an extra $120 to fix the crack. No way am I doing that anymore. A scrap yard accross the street from my work has a 2000 Cherokee sport, and I'm wondering if I should grab the head. They want $100. I would buy it an get it magnafluxed before installing, but I don't want to waste $56 on top of that just to find out that head is also cracked. What do you guys think?
EDIT: They will refund me if its cracked, so the new question is, will the 2000 head fit a 1996 block?
Edit 2: ah remembered only 96-98 heads are compatible.
EDIT: They will refund me if its cracked, so the new question is, will the 2000 head fit a 1996 block?
Edit 2: ah remembered only 96-98 heads are compatible.
Last edited by Wolf427; 09-25-2014 at 12:52 PM.
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Turns out my cylinder head is cracked, so I need a new one. The place I brought it to want $542 for the valve job, resurface, and magnaflux, with an extra $120 to fix the crack. No way am I doing that anymore. A scrap yard accross the street from my work has a 2000 Cherokee sport, and I'm wondering if I should grab the head. They want $100. I would buy it an get it magnafluxed before installing, but I don't want to waste $56 on top of that just to find out that head is also cracked. What do you guys think? EDIT: They will refund me if its cracked, so the new question is, will the 2000 head fit a 1996 block? Edit 2: ah remembered only 96-98 heads are compatible.
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
Decided I'm going to buy a new/rebuilt head from 4wheelparts.com $476. There's a store close to me, so no shipping charges, or import fees.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm repainting the bottom of my doors and the rocker panels. Of course what I though was only surface rust on the panels were actually a little worse (although not as bad as some rocker panels I've seen around here...)
My question is, what's my best solution here if I want to avoid the holes getting bigger? I need to paint pretty soon since it's my DD, but I'd like to get this sorted first.
Any input is appreciated! Thanks!
My question is, what's my best solution here if I want to avoid the holes getting bigger? I need to paint pretty soon since it's my DD, but I'd like to get this sorted first.
Any input is appreciated! Thanks!
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
I'm repainting the bottom of my doors and the rocker panels. Of course what I though was only surface rust on the panels were actually a little worse (although not as bad as some rocker panels I've seen around here...) My question is, what's my best solution here if I want to avoid the holes getting bigger? I need to paint pretty soon since it's my DD, but I'd like to get this sorted first. Any input is appreciated! Thanks!
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Cut a square around that hole. Make it bigger than that hole. Rust never stops, you'll have to get rid of that hole and around it if you want to kill it completely. Sucks but I just did it and now I have nothing to worry about. Just gonna put a couple screws and some thin metal there and imitate new panels. Once painted it won't be noticeable.
Blower Motor Speed after new BMR
I took my 2000 XJ to a body show to fix a leak I thought was coming from my windshield. I wanted them to look at the metal around the window in the process. It turns out it was leaking through the firewall in the condensor/evaporator area.
I got that fixed and now I'm only able to run my hvac blower on high, setting number 4. I replaced the blower motor resistor and there is no change.
I also tested the voltage across each of the four wires against ground. In doing so, I was able to get the blower to work in each setting, and confirm that all four wires are connected to the blower and that the switch works.
I tried to test the resistance of the BMR and the values I got were either OL, 0.6, 1.5, or 2 ohms. Of note, they are the same between the old and new BMR.
Can anyone suggest a next step?
I got that fixed and now I'm only able to run my hvac blower on high, setting number 4. I replaced the blower motor resistor and there is no change.
I also tested the voltage across each of the four wires against ground. In doing so, I was able to get the blower to work in each setting, and confirm that all four wires are connected to the blower and that the switch works.
I tried to test the resistance of the BMR and the values I got were either OL, 0.6, 1.5, or 2 ohms. Of note, they are the same between the old and new BMR.
Can anyone suggest a next step?
Last edited by Snajo; 09-25-2014 at 06:07 PM. Reason: checked BMR resistance values again...
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0