olibgood

Hi guys,
I have a leaking cylinder on the rear left drum brake, no big deal I thought, I got two new cylinders and was about to replace them both but have found the hoses are rusted tight into the nut on the back of the cylinder. I have freed the nut with penetrating oil and it will loosen slightly from the cylinder, but it will not rotate around the brake line pipe, so as I turn the nut it starts to twist the pipe.
I have decided to replace the brake lines to each drum, and cylinders and springs and shoes.
My question; can I just cut off the old hoses and then unscrew the fittings and put on new hoses? Will I have brake fluid flowing out as I replace the hoses? I am going to bleed the lot out after and replace but I don't want to be lying under the axle installing lines with a shower of fluid to dodge!
Any advice would be really helpful as this is my DD and I can't be out of action for days

Wolf427

Yup. I don't want to drill and tap this head. I've spent too much time and money already. One will have to do.

Rain

the blower motor resistor has failed. Its located below the dash on passenger side, behind a small plastic shield..


#1. It takes a 25 amp fuse.
#2. Likely the switch has to be R&R'd


Your blower motor switch has also failed.
be certain the switch is properly wired.. As long as U have all of the fan speeds, its likely U have on issues.. just a failed switch. And resister

NewKindOfClown

Then your gauge won't work. The front sensor is for your computer. The rear sender is for your gauge. You can buy a thermostat housing with both openings if yours doesn't have the second one

cruiser54

So, which are you gonna eliminate? The sending unit for the gauge/dash, or the sensor for the PCM?

Wolf427

Oh can you? I'll look into the then.

Well I'm keeping the one for the PCM, but I'm going to look into the T-housing for two sensors.

How did it work on the '98 with only the one sensor?

CJG

Thanks, Clown, just wanted to let you know that I wound up getting 4 of the Firestone Destination LE2 tires. I only have 30 miles on them since yesterday but so far they fit the bill perfectly. Plus I bought them at he local Firestone store where not only were they $10 cheaper per tire than Tire Rack but they're running a 25%-Off sale right now on the Destinations so, with all the balancing and mounting and tax charges added on, it was still below $500 for the 4 installed.

Thanks again.

CJ

NewKindOfClown

No problem, buddy. Glad you like them

drhoward1988

Pulled my gauge cluster and speedo cable fell out of the back of the cluster and the plastic stub sticking out of the fire wall. I put it back in during reassembly the way it came out and my speedo isn't working. Any ideas? Plastic tip on the cable inserts into the back of the cluster correct?

cruiser54

Short cable? Spin it as it goes back into the housing near the firewall. When it stops spinning, it's engaged.

drhoward1988

Ya short, maybe 12in. Thanks. I'll give it a try in a few days. Gotta pull the cluster back out to replace some bulbs....joy.
Edit: is the short cable supposed to bottom out in housing. At first I stuck it in there and it never bottomed out.

XJwonders

Stock radio's clock doesn't display. It did display the time a while ago.

Today i unhooked the battery to clean the posts and clamps, could that cause anything? I can't figure out anything.

FruitSnacks

Did you "push for time"? Lol

XJwonders

I'm deaf. I never bother with the radios unless it's setting up the clock.

Since I cleaned the posts, I knew the clock was reset, so I wanted to change the time so I turned the key and saw that the display wouldn't come on.

NewKindOfClown

I've never messed with a stock radio, but there may be a fuse in the back. I'd check the primary fuse panel first