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Old 12-09-2014, 11:06 PM
  #47116  
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Originally Posted by WalleyeGuy
Hey everyone,

I bought a '96 XJ w/ 132,000 miles on it in October. The thing is great, exactly how you would expect a Cherokee to run, always rough and ready.

Just last night though, I went to fire it up, and it didn't make a sound. It had started fine not even 6 hours ago. My instinct is that its a starter issue (since it didn't crank at all [and the dash powered up and the lights come on etc.]).

I'm not sure what the issue is, and this is my first real car, and I wanna learn how to do most of the maintenance myself. any ideas from you veterans and experts?

Thanks
Yup. Go to your jeep right now this second, go. Cycle your gears down to 1, providing its auto, and then try to start in neutral. Go try
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:20 AM
  #47117  
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Originally Posted by Comanche1987
I drove about 5 miles in the snow last year with my xj (the last snow of the season) in 4hi, it did great even with horrible tires. I have been off road very often with it as well, I noticed a few months ago it would want to "come out" of 4wd in a way, it felt like a pop from the front and it would be two wheeling, with the floor pretty much gone I can see the front drive shaft spinning and the "part time" light is on. I checked the vacuum connections at the dana 30 disco and its getting vacuum but when driving in 4hi in the snow last week it would start popping in and out of being "locked", you could easily tell when the back of the jeep started coming around. Is there a way to adjust it or should I just grab another unit from the junkyard? I found a manual setup online for 100 but I rather find a affordable repair. I also had something shatter my back window so I'll be going to the junkyard soon.
Just do this in less than half an hour and be done with all that CAD crap:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/
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Old 12-10-2014, 12:30 PM
  #47118  
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Could an exhaust leak keep a 88 4.0 o2 sensor from telling the PCM to close the loop?
My jeep has been running richer than Paris Hilton and kinda boggy at idle. I have a substantial exhaust leak before the o2 on my pacesetter headers.
Before any of y'all ask(cruiser lol) I have performed the sensor ground test, cleaned the grounds, eliminated c101 yada yada yada. Only thing I know of is I gotta put a guage on my fuel line cause I think I have bad fuel pressure. Sometimes my jeep dies right after start up(ballast resistor eliminated). Been getting 8 mpg highway lol. Lots of soot in my tailpipe so I think my jeep is always in open loop.
Any advice would be appreciated
By the way nothing changes when I unplug the o2 sensor, and I have a new line from the throttle body t the map and I know the map is good( put my brothers map from his k5 blazer on there for testing purposes. Funny amc used gm map sensors
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:41 PM
  #47119  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Just do this in less than half an hour and be done with all that CAD crap:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/
Wow that is awesome! I haven't read enough as usual, that's why I'm still running a CAD nightmare still. This free mod is exactly what I need to get me through the winter until I can 1 piece swap and upgrade to the larger U joints, or even a 96+ dana 30 complete unit.

Thank you

I'll get this done asap and then check my transfer case linkage adjustment.
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:38 PM
  #47120  
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Originally Posted by 884x4
Could an exhaust leak keep a 88 4.0 o2 sensor from telling the PCM to close the loop?
My jeep has been running richer than Paris Hilton and kinda boggy at idle. I have a substantial exhaust leak before the o2 on my pacesetter headers.
Before any of y'all ask(cruiser lol) I have performed the sensor ground test, cleaned the grounds, eliminated c101 yada yada yada. Only thing I know of is I gotta put a guage on my fuel line cause I think I have bad fuel pressure. Sometimes my jeep dies right after start up(ballast resistor eliminated). Been getting 8 mpg highway lol. Lots of soot in my tailpipe so I think my jeep is always in open loop.
Any advice would be appreciated
By the way nothing changes when I unplug the o2 sensor, and I have a new line from the throttle body t the map and I know the map is good( put my brothers map from his k5 blazer on there for testing purposes. Funny amc used gm map sensors
Smartalec!! LOL. Thanks for posting the introduction though.

No, the exhaust leak will not cause the O2 to read wrong.

O2 sensor could be bad though.

Real rich is influenced mostly by MAP, then CTS, then IAT. In that order.

Ever see this?
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Comanche1987
Wow that is awesome! I haven't read enough as usual, that's why I'm still running a CAD nightmare still. This free mod is exactly what I need to get me through the winter until I can 1 piece swap and upgrade to the larger U joints, or even a 96+ dana 30 complete unit.

Thank you

I'll get this done asap and then check my transfer case linkage adjustment.
Are you done yet?
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:24 PM
  #47122  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Smartalec!! LOL. Thanks for posting the introduction though.

No, the exhaust leak will not cause the O2 to read wrong.

O2 sensor could be bad though.

Real rich is influenced mostly by MAP, then CTS, then IAT. In that order.

Ever see this?
Lol no problem.
The o2 is a Bosch with 5000 miles on it. Nothing changes if I pull the o2 sensor plug or the coolant temperature sensor.
I'll pull the iat and replace it for fun lol when I cleaned my throttle body I kinda diddnt know you were supposed to be careful with the pintle and I scrubbed it with a scotch bright pad. Maybe I screwed it up?
It runs so rich that when it starts it blows sooty water all over behind my tailpipe on the ground. I don't think it ever gets to closed loop.
I'll check the cts
The map has a brand new rubber hose on it, no cracks or leaks.
I'm gonna rent a fuel pressure gauge for fun and get some carb cleaner so I can check for vacuum leaks.
It runs great on the highway just kinda sluggish off the line and my wallet hates me from 8 mpg lol.
I should be getting at least 14 with the 35s and 4.88s. It's got a remanufactured 4.0 with maybe 3k on it as well.
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Turn signals don't go through the clockspring. Power for the turn signals goes through the Combination Flasher to the Turn Signal/Hazard Switch and is powered from fuse 12 (10A) in the JB - RUN Circuit, and from fuse 20 (15A) in the PDC - BATT Circuit. Is your Air Bag Control Module still installed under the driver's seat. There's a recall to move it to under the center console. If it's still under the seat the ground for it may be ate up (or the whole ABCM mount is ate up) If it was moved to under the console, the ground wire still goes to the floor pan, which could still be corroded.
I would like for every one to know the culprit. I checked the fuses and wiring. All were good. Then I was reading and discovered that the relay is usually the culprit. So I took the one from my other jeep into this one and viola it works now.

Thanks ken for your tip. At least I now know the location of the fuses!
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:28 PM
  #47124  
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Anyone know of a write up on removing or installing the factory engine/front skid plate?
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:34 PM
  #47125  
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Anyone know of a write up on removing or installing the factory engine/front skid plate?
It's 3 bolts on studs in the front and 2-3 bolts on the back sides, corners. The nuts are welded to the inside of the frame rail so you don't have to worry about that
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:01 PM
  #47126  
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Originally Posted by 884x4
Lol no problem.
The o2 is a Bosch with 5000 miles on it. Nothing changes if I pull the o2 sensor plug or the coolant temperature sensor.
I'll pull the iat and replace it for fun lol when I cleaned my throttle body I kinda diddnt know you were supposed to be careful with the pintle and I scrubbed it with a scotch bright pad. Maybe I screwed it up?
It runs so rich that when it starts it blows sooty water all over behind my tailpipe on the ground. I don't think it ever gets to closed loop.
I'll check the cts
The map has a brand new rubber hose on it, no cracks or leaks.
I'm gonna rent a fuel pressure gauge for fun and get some carb cleaner so I can check for vacuum leaks.
It runs great on the highway just kinda sluggish off the line and my wallet hates me from 8 mpg lol.
I should be getting at least 14 with the 35s and 4.88s. It's got a remanufactured 4.0 with maybe 3k on it as well.
The IAT and CTS can be tested with a simple meter.

I do not like Bosch anything any more.

NGK and NTK only.

If your O2 sensor heater relay isn't working, the O2 sensor won't heat up and work.
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:02 PM
  #47127  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

The IAT and CTS can be tested with a simple meter.

I do not like Bosch anything any more.

NGK and NTK only.

If your O2 sensor heater relay isn't working, the O2 sensor won't heat up and work.
CTS test:
Unplug.

Did your problems go away?
Yes: Replace
No: Not the problem
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:06 PM
  #47128  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
CTS test:
Unplug.

Did your problems go away?
Yes: Replace
No: Not the problem
Smartass
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:10 PM
  #47129  
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Thanks guys I'll be doing these things tonight after I get off work
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:04 PM
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Iat tested bad I think. 900ohms when the motor was hot.
Cts tested 300ohms when the motor was hot. So 100 ohms high.
Should I go ahead and replace both?
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