09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
12-18-2014, 05:31 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Checked exhaust and all is good. My temp has been acting a little funny as well, its running a little hot when idling, and lowers when Im cruising. If Im idling for a while it hits 110-115 on the temp gauge and if I punch it while idling it cools down. Give it a minute and it heats up. My rad has a slow leak, and is getting fixed this weekend but ya.
12-18-2014, 05:39 PM
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
12-18-2014, 08:28 PM
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SATX
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
12-18-2014, 09:15 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Question, my 95 xj literally got sluggish today. Nothing happened, havent even wheeled it at all recently. I know they are not fast to begin with, but the throttle response is just weakened now. It still gets up to the same speeds fine, just seems to take longer and more pressure on the skinny pedal. Am I right to assume this problem could be fuel injectors? I am going to replace them, but before I do is there anything else that can be done. Im going to clean the throttle body and air intake as well when I do this.
Yes all XJ rear axles except for very early D35 and D44s use C-clips. That includes all years of the C8.25.
12-19-2014, 07:52 AM
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yes that's why. Hydraulic action in the transfer case can still turn the transmission, equating to unnecessary wear. In both auto and manual oil is circulated by the input section - when the front half is stopped and the rear is spinning madly there's no lubrication to anything. No bueno.
Transfer case oil pump is on the main shaft so this isn't a problem.
Done and done.
Thanks, gents
12-19-2014, 03:10 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright if y'all remember I posted about my np242 jumping out of 4lo whenever I bumped ledges and stuff you need to to for wheeling. This is completely unacceptable of my case so I asked about the cable shift. Steve have me great info on how to adjust the linkage and I still need to do that but I have a theory.
I've got brown dog poly motor mounts and a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward. I know this because after hard braking my motor is at the front of the mounts and after a hard acceleration up a hill or whatever it's slid to the back of the mounts.
I'm guessing whenever I'm bumping a ledge or rocks that the whole drive line shifts and it bumps the case out of 4lo.
Thus, giving me the idea of buying the super brackets made by Brown dog that don't allow any sliding of the drive line. I would then adjust the linkage and hopefully no more falling out of 4lo.
Any thoughts on this or did I hit the nail on the head?
Or my redneck side could come out and stack washers on each side of the bolt between the brown dog bushings and the inside of the motor mount bracket?
Lol
I've got brown dog poly motor mounts and a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward. I know this because after hard braking my motor is at the front of the mounts and after a hard acceleration up a hill or whatever it's slid to the back of the mounts.
I'm guessing whenever I'm bumping a ledge or rocks that the whole drive line shifts and it bumps the case out of 4lo.
Thus, giving me the idea of buying the super brackets made by Brown dog that don't allow any sliding of the drive line. I would then adjust the linkage and hopefully no more falling out of 4lo.
Any thoughts on this or did I hit the nail on the head?
Or my redneck side could come out and stack washers on each side of the bolt between the brown dog bushings and the inside of the motor mount bracket?
Lol
Last edited by 884x4; 12-19-2014 at 03:15 PM.
12-19-2014, 03:31 PM
Beach Bum
Alright if y'all remember I posted about my np242 jumping out of 4lo whenever I bumped ledges and stuff you need to to for wheeling. This is completely unacceptable of my case so I asked about the cable shift. Steve have me great info on how to adjust the linkage and I still need to do that but I have a theory.
I've got brown dog poly motor mounts and a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward. I know this because after hard braking my motor is at the front of the mounts and after a hard acceleration up a hill or whatever it's slid to the back of the mounts.
I'm guessing whenever I'm bumping a ledge or rocks that the whole drive line shifts and it bumps the case out of 4lo.
Thus, giving me the idea of buying the super brackets made by Brown dog that don't allow any sliding of the drive line. I would then adjust the linkage and hopefully no more falling out of 4lo.
Any thoughts on this or did I hit the nail on the head?
Or my redneck side could come out and stack washers on each side of the bolt between the brown dog bushings and the inside of the motor mount bracket?
Lol
I've got brown dog poly motor mounts and a good trans mount but I have noticed that during acceleration or stopping or crawling down a steep inline my whole drive line moves about an inch or so forward. I know this because after hard braking my motor is at the front of the mounts and after a hard acceleration up a hill or whatever it's slid to the back of the mounts.
I'm guessing whenever I'm bumping a ledge or rocks that the whole drive line shifts and it bumps the case out of 4lo.
Thus, giving me the idea of buying the super brackets made by Brown dog that don't allow any sliding of the drive line. I would then adjust the linkage and hopefully no more falling out of 4lo.
Any thoughts on this or did I hit the nail on the head?
Or my redneck side could come out and stack washers on each side of the bolt between the brown dog bushings and the inside of the motor mount bracket?
Lol
The super brackets will not solve this issue unless your brackets or bolts are broken.
IF, the only issue is a gap on either side of motor mounts than washers is what I was thinking also.
The engine mount 'ears' that capture the motor mounts should not allow that much movement.
Need to pinpoint that slop. Will not be long before a fan eats the radiator.
12-19-2014, 03:35 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
12-19-2014, 03:38 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
First determine where the slop is and why, something is wrong to have nearly one inch of drivetrain movement!
The super brackets will not solve this issue unless your brackets or bolts are broken.
IF, the only issue is a gap on either side of motor mounts than washers is what I was thinking also.
The engine mount 'ears' that capture the motor mounts should not allow that much movement.
Need to pinpoint that slop. Will not be long before a fan eats the radiator.
The super brackets will not solve this issue unless your brackets or bolts are broken.
IF, the only issue is a gap on either side of motor mounts than washers is what I was thinking also.
The engine mount 'ears' that capture the motor mounts should not allow that much movement.
Need to pinpoint that slop. Will not be long before a fan eats the radiator.
So I cut it off. Lol
It's really not an inch on either side, the motor mount bracket is whats gapping the motor mount. By about 3/8ths of an inch on both sides. So if the motor slides back it can now move almost an inch forwards. Get what I'm saying? It's definately just the motor mount sliding in the bracket on the bolt. I've checked everything else out. You think I could be right about the drivetrain moving making the case fall out of 4lo? I'm gonna buy some washers I think cause that's a little cheaper than the 270$ brackets lol
12-19-2014, 03:40 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
12-19-2014, 03:58 PM
Beach Bum
the motor mount bracket is whats gapping the motor mount. By about 3/8ths of an inch on both sides. So if the motor slides back it can now move almost an inch forwards. Get what I'm saying? It's definately just the motor mount sliding in the bracket on the bolt. I've checked everything else out. You think I could be right about the drivetrain moving making the case fall out of 4lo? I'm gonna buy some washers I think cause that's a little cheaper than the 270$ brackets lol
But seriously, if you have confirmed the slop, and that your engine brackets and bolts are intact, then yes, try filling the gap with washers and allow enough room for vibrations. Perhaps even rubber washers.
Also consider calling Brown Dog on the phone, talk to the tech department.
I believe I have spoken to most of the tech departments that cater to the XJ.
When I built my rig, I was not on the forums. If I had an issue, I picked up the phone.
12-19-2014, 04:05 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hold on, I was the one suggesting that the drivetrain was shifting! lol
But seriously, if you have confirmed the slop, and that your engine brackets and bolts are intact, then yes, try filling the gap with washers and allow enough room for vibrations.
Also consider calling Brown Dog on the phone, talk to the tech department.
I believe I have spoken to most of the tech departments that cater to the XJ.
When I built my rig, I was not on the forums. If I had an issue, I picked up the phone.
But seriously, if you have confirmed the slop, and that your engine brackets and bolts are intact, then yes, try filling the gap with washers and allow enough room for vibrations.
Also consider calling Brown Dog on the phone, talk to the tech department.
I believe I have spoken to most of the tech departments that cater to the XJ.
When I built my rig, I was not on the forums. If I had an issue, I picked up the phone.
This was a fault of the t case drop I had on at the time Tim and I concluded.
The drop is gone and a sye is in place. Even though the fault was mine time sent Me a bushing 're build kit for FREE just because the mounts were only on there for about 500 miles before this happened.
He had no obligation to do that and he will always get my business from now on.
