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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:43 PM
  #47731  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
'93 YJ D35
The cast tab that the joint cap rests against is broken off. Safe to run, or do I need a new yoke?
New yoke, unlike the DS end there aren't any clips used so that tab is the only thing keeping the cap in. You could spot weld it temporarily I suppose
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:50 PM
  #47732  
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Test fitting, and I just realized he put a greasable ujoint on the TC output, and the ujoint won't seat properly because of the zerk fitting. So this isn't getting done today regardless.

Might just cancel my trip this month and do that 8.8 upgrade as soon as possible. Kinda pissed right now
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:02 PM
  #47733  
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Surely you can find a D35 yoke?
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:08 PM
  #47734  
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Originally Posted by salad
Surely you can find a D35 yoke?
I couldn't sleep last night. I'm not gonna tackle a ujoint, a pinion, and my exhaust when I'm running on two hours. I'll break something
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:22 PM
  #47735  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

I couldn't sleep last night. I'm not gonna tackle a ujoint, a pinion, and my exhaust when I'm running on two hours. I'll break something
Pull the zerk out of the u joint for now, tac weld the cap onto the yoke for now.
fix it all asap
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:35 PM
  #47736  
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Originally Posted by 884x4

Pull the zerk out of the u joint for now, tac weld the cap onto the yoke for now.
fix it all asap
I don't have a welder in this parking lot, and I'd rather put a non-greasable ujoint in there instead of contaminating the one I can use as a spare.

I've been using front wheel drive since she got back on the road. It won't kill me to do it for another week
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:00 PM
  #47737  
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Originally Posted by 884x4
Maybe y'all remember me posting about my np242 jumping out of 4lo.
Well I adjusted the linkage and it's still doing it. It still feels like there's "throw" left in the lever when I pull it into 4lo. It feels like the lever itself stops and not the linkage shifter on the case. Either way i went wheeling yesterday to test out the new Detroit in the 8.8(locked all the way around is the best thing ever) (if I could keep it in 4x4 lol) well it was slipping out of 4 lo quite a bit. It seemed like once there was a heavy load on the front tires it would disengage 4x4 and just the rears would spin. Sometimes I heared a clicking at the case other times it was like I was in 2lo. Call me crazy. It at one point just my fronts were spinning and the rears weren't even spin...don't know how that's possible.
I'm about done with this 242.. Even though I spent WAY to much money just over a year ago to have it rebuilt. I'm thinking of getting a 231 from the yard, getting boost works linkage, throwing the h&t off my 242 on it and rebuilding it myself.
I read through a couple threads like this and I figure the case is toast.http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=929771
I pulled the top plug and stuck my finger in there, the fluid was still red and not metal.
Any more suggestions before I toss this 242 as off a cliff?
I'm finally getting a new truck soon so I can retire the jeep as a dd! Can't wait to actually be able to hear my thoughts driving above 50mph
Just sent in an order for the 242 boosterks linkage. They got it back out on the market a few days ago.
If it doesn't fix my problem I'll sell the linkage on here so no big deal.
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:48 PM
  #47738  
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Quick one. Ice is coming tonight. .10 inches I think.

Will a tarp over the windshield/roof/rear window hurt the paint? Just for the night so I can pull the tarp in the AM and go.
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:54 PM
  #47739  
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Quick one. Ice is coming tonight. .10 inches I think.

Will a tarp over the windshield/roof/rear window hurt the paint? Just for the night so I can pull the tarp in the AM and go.
I do this but to be honest my clear coat looks so bad I can't say if it would damage good paint.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:16 PM
  #47740  
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Quick one. Ice is coming tonight. .10 inches I think.

Will a tarp over the windshield/roof/rear window hurt the paint? Just for the night so I can pull the tarp in the AM and go.
I think it could scratch the clear up if you aren't careful in removing.if you put an old comforter on the the tarp I think that be better
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:48 AM
  #47741  
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Quick question... I'm replacing the heater core on my RHD '98 4.0 with AC soon. Are there any special tools that I'll need so that I don't become stuck?
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:25 AM
  #47742  
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Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
Quick question... I'm replacing the heater core on my RHD '98 4.0 with AC soon. Are there any special tools that I'll need so that I don't become stuck?
Patience will be your number one tool. It's a tedious task. Just take pictures and take your time and you will be fine. Simple hand tools will get the job done. No crazy special tools needed
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:49 AM
  #47743  
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What's the difference between an 8 gauge jumper cable wire and an 8 gauge audio amplifier power wire? It is there a difference? I'm going to update my grounds, alt wire, etc and have both available but would rather use the audio wire if it is the same so I don't have to cut the jumper cables.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:13 AM
  #47744  
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Originally Posted by T1XJ
What's the difference between an 8 gauge jumper cable wire and an 8 gauge audio amplifier power wire? It is there a difference? I'm going to update my grounds, alt wire, etc and have both available but would rather use the audio wire if it is the same so I don't have to cut the jumper cables.
Depends on the quality of the wire. What percentage is copper vs tin
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:24 AM
  #47745  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Depends on the quality of the wire. What percentage is copper vs tin
+1, most speaker wire is finely stranded copper, the better stuff even being oxygen-free, and a startling amount of jumper cables are actually copper-clad aluminum.

8 gauge jumper cable though? What is that for, a lawn mower?
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