09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
01-28-2015, 08:25 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Silicone-based instead of polyethelyne glycol-based. The stuff destroys seals in normal braking systems. Additionally, it is hydrophobic instead of hygroscopic. This means water (moisture) in the system is suspended instead of neatly absorbed by the fluid. I'm assuming this carries a risk of freezing, but I only really know about the seal incompatibility for sure.
5.1 meets the thermal specs of DOT 5 but is polyethelyne glycol-based.
5.1 meets the thermal specs of DOT 5 but is polyethelyne glycol-based.
01-28-2015, 08:35 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Anderson, SC
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
intake manifold vacuum
I was looking around at my intake and noticed this vacuum plug leak. It is the same vacuum nub found in this thread
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/vacuum-hoses-2000-intake-manifold-49696/
What does that thing do?
If it's just capped off, why even exist?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/vacuum-hoses-2000-intake-manifold-49696/
What does that thing do?
If it's just capped off, why even exist?
01-28-2015, 08:36 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 854
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Silicone-based instead of polyethelyne glycol-based. The stuff destroys seals in normal braking systems. Additionally, it is hydrophobic instead of hygroscopic. This means water (moisture) in the system is suspended instead of neatly absorbed by the fluid. I'm assuming this carries a risk of freezing, but I only really know about the seal incompatibility for sure.
5.1 meets the thermal specs of DOT 5 but is polyethelyne glycol-based.
01-28-2015, 08:43 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I was looking around at my intake and noticed this vacuum plug leak. It is the same vacuum nub found in this thread
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/vac...anifold-49696/
What does that thing do?
If it's just capped off, why even exist?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/vac...anifold-49696/
What does that thing do?
If it's just capped off, why even exist?
You got it dude
01-28-2015, 08:56 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
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36 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
01-28-2015, 09:09 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Forest Hill, Maryland
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14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I had to replace mine a little bit ago. I just cut the harness off of another Jeep that was being parted out and spliced it in. Now I have a working rear O2 sensor again.
01-29-2015, 12:55 AM
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: V6
My front end makes a growling noise when I am in 4 wheel drive and the front wheels wobble when I make a turn. Is this a differential or problem or maybe the transfer case?
01-29-2015, 01:05 AM
CF Veteran
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Don't use Part-Time 4WD on pavement
The axles are locked together and forced to spin at the same speed, but when you make a turn the tires all take different arcs that require them to spin at different speeds. Something has to give, sounds like your tires are skipping (luckily), but the growling could be something else like a broken u-joint or the transfercase chain skipping a tooth, etc.
The axles are locked together and forced to spin at the same speed, but when you make a turn the tires all take different arcs that require them to spin at different speeds. Something has to give, sounds like your tires are skipping (luckily), but the growling could be something else like a broken u-joint or the transfercase chain skipping a tooth, etc.
01-29-2015, 05:21 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Anderson, SC
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Feels good to publish my first techical write-ups/how-to article.
01-29-2015, 05:49 AM
Seasoned Member
Umm...... Gotta go back and check that. I seem to remember doing that way back then.
Easy enough to do if I didn't.
I'll give silicon spray a shot on the windows.
Just out of curiosity, can one disassemble the window motors and clean the armature with some fine grit sandpaper, or are they "use until they die and toss"?
I would think they would be getting pretty dirty after 25 years.
Easy enough to do if I didn't.
I'll give silicon spray a shot on the windows.
Just out of curiosity, can one disassemble the window motors and clean the armature with some fine grit sandpaper, or are they "use until they die and toss"?
I would think they would be getting pretty dirty after 25 years.
01-29-2015, 07:40 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lapeer, Murder Mitten
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Umm...... Gotta go back and check that. I seem to remember doing that way back then.
Just out of curiosity, can one disassemble the window motors and clean the armature with some fine grit sandpaper, or are they "use until they die and toss"?
I would think they would be getting pretty dirty after 25 years.
Just out of curiosity, can one disassemble the window motors and clean the armature with some fine grit sandpaper, or are they "use until they die and toss"?
I would think they would be getting pretty dirty after 25 years.
Just did a "Polish" rebuild on daughter's heater blower, 97 Saturn. Cleaned it well, oiled felts for bearings, good as new.
Back in the day used pencil eraser to clean commutators on slot car motors. 2000grit or fine scotch brite is "coarsest" I would use, if it even has commutator.
01-29-2015, 07:57 AM
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
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1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Umm...... Gotta go back and check that. I seem to remember doing that way back then.
Easy enough to do if I didn't.
I'll give silicon spray a shot on the windows.
Just out of curiosity, can one disassemble the window motors and clean the armature with some fine grit sandpaper, or are they "use until they die and toss"?
I would think they would be getting pretty dirty after 25 years.
Easy enough to do if I didn't.
I'll give silicon spray a shot on the windows.
Just out of curiosity, can one disassemble the window motors and clean the armature with some fine grit sandpaper, or are they "use until they die and toss"?
I would think they would be getting pretty dirty after 25 years.
01-29-2015, 08:00 AM
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
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1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Can't spoil a rotten egg.
Just did a "Polish" rebuild on daughter's heater blower, 97 Saturn. Cleaned it well, oiled felts for bearings, good as new.
Back in the day used pencil eraser to clean commutators on slot car motors. 2000grit or fine scotch brite is "coarsest" I would use, if it even has commutator.
Just did a "Polish" rebuild on daughter's heater blower, 97 Saturn. Cleaned it well, oiled felts for bearings, good as new.
Back in the day used pencil eraser to clean commutators on slot car motors. 2000grit or fine scotch brite is "coarsest" I would use, if it even has commutator.
On a trip to Lake Tahoe in my Nissan Patrol all the way from San Jose, my lights began to dim. It had a generator at that time, so I borrowed my wife's emery board from her purse, stuck it through a slot in the generator and polished the armature while the vehicle was running. Fixed it.
01-29-2015, 09:11 AM
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
1988 Jeep XJ 4.0l 4x4
Here's my issue: Pulled dash for Heater core replacement. Got everything back together and go to recharge AC using actual gauges. When trying to recharge my system the system takes about 1/2 a can and won't suck anymore in. The clutch does NOT engage even when jumping the LP switch. I switched the relays around and it still will not kick.
I disconnected the ac power lines and touched them directly to the positive terminal and the clutch locks instantly when the vehicle is off. So I tried the same with the vehicle running and it engages but seems to be turning very slow and sounds funny. Pressure does not really change in the 5 seconds or so I leave it touching the battery.
What could be my issue and where do I start diagnosing the no power to relay issue.
The AC worked fine before I discharged it and pulled the dash apart.
Here's my issue: Pulled dash for Heater core replacement. Got everything back together and go to recharge AC using actual gauges. When trying to recharge my system the system takes about 1/2 a can and won't suck anymore in. The clutch does NOT engage even when jumping the LP switch. I switched the relays around and it still will not kick.
I disconnected the ac power lines and touched them directly to the positive terminal and the clutch locks instantly when the vehicle is off. So I tried the same with the vehicle running and it engages but seems to be turning very slow and sounds funny. Pressure does not really change in the 5 seconds or so I leave it touching the battery.
What could be my issue and where do I start diagnosing the no power to relay issue.
The AC worked fine before I discharged it and pulled the dash apart.
Bump. Anyone have any info to point me in the right direction?