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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
may not have any adjustment left. Generally youll need adjustable UCA to set it. Im in the same boat. According to go jeep i need to adjust my caster by 1.5* which will also raise my pinion too at the same time
Mine is just enough to make a hum in the shaft, so I should have enough adjustment in the caster to make it fine. Eventually I want adjustable uppers to push the axle out a little as well but for now it should do.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Sure.. just keep in mind that the coil springs will be working against the bottle jack. I prefer to lift chassis of jeep just a few inches, this removes some of the suspension preload.
edit; Using bottle jack underneath coil bucket, correct? Not the pumpkin or yoke itself?
Chocking rear tires and rotating front also works.
I don't have jack stands that tall actually for the frame :/. I was thinking of using the jack on the rear of the pumpkin before the yoke where it's flat.. is that an issue? I don't think it'll need to be adjusted much.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Sure.. just keep in mind that the coil springs will be working against the bottle jack. I prefer to lift chassis of jeep just a few inches, this removes some of the suspension preload. edit; Using bottle jack underneath coil bucket, correct? Not the pumpkin or yoke itself? Chocking rear tires and rotating front also works.
This is what i just had to do. Lift the jeep, put stands under the frame and then use a jack on the back side of the coil bucket. Got me about a 1/4" of movement but need UCA in my case
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Mine is just enough to make a hum in the shaft, so I should have enough adjustment in the caster to make it fine. Eventually I want adjustable uppers to push the axle out a little as well but for now it should do. I don't have jack stands that tall actually for the frame :/. I was thinking of using the jack on the rear of the pumpkin before the yoke where it's flat.. is that an issue? I don't think it'll need to be adjusted much.
Look at the frame side LCA mount. Do you see if there is any play in the caster adjustment hole?
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
don't have jack stands that tall actually for the frame :/. I was thinking of using the jack on the rear of the pumpkin before the yoke where it's flat.. is that an issue? I don't think it'll need to be adjusted much.
The coil springs are off-set of axle and tend to push pinion up when adjusters are loosened. A push or roll of the front wheels will help it along.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
The coil springs are off-set of axle and tend to push pinion up when adjusters are loosened. A push or roll of the front wheels will help it along.
Thats good to know
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Look at the frame side LCA mount. Do you see if there is any play in the caster adjustment hole?
No, everything is tight. But i do need to replace my passenger side shoe while I'm at it.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
The coil springs are off-set of axle and tend to push pinion up when adjusters are loosened. A push or roll of the front wheels will help it along.
Thanks, hopefully I have enough adjustment with just the LCAs.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by phletch
When I do my 4wd swap on my comanche I may have to drive in 4wd with only the front driveshaft while I get the rear shortened. I have an auto locker in the front axle. How bad will this be? It's also a manual. Will I be able to get away with just keeping the clutch in on turns?
Its no problem from a driveline POV however the rear slip joint is lubricated by the transfer case fluid so you'll run it dry unless you find a way to plug the output shaft.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
I want to adjust my front pinion angle. Is there any reason why I can't just loosen the lca frame bolts and caster shoe, use a bottle jack to set the pinion, and tighten up the bolts and go? Seems pretty basic but just want to make sure.
you need shims for the adjusters
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ehall
you need shims for the adjusters
Only if bringing the pinion down. Shims iirc increases the negative caster by pushing the LCA forward. He wants to do the opposite. Or at least thats how it sounds
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Only if bringing the pinion down. Shims iirc increases the negative caster by pushing the LCA forward. He wants to do the opposite. Or at least thats how it sounds
Yup, should be removing not adding shims.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Yup, should be removing not adding shims.
Like said, im in the same boat. Tried to adjust my passenger side the other day. Had about 1/2" play more than driver side so i lifted her and jacked the back of the coil bucket. Didn't give my pinion much. Just gonna save up for IRO adjustable uppers for 160. I get vibes at 65mph+ but on windy days and inclines i can feel them slightly
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:39 PM
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So my passenger side tail light is out, but break light still works. I traced the wires back to a white connector inside my right rear quarter panel. Upon inspection, I noticed one of the prongs inside had broken off into the female side of the connector. My question is, can I use any kind of automotive electrical connector to replace is as long as it has enough places for existing wires to go into it? Or should I try to find one at the junk yard to use? Either way I'm probably going to have to splice wires
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
This is what i just had to do. Lift the jeep, put stands under the frame and then use a jack on the back side of the coil bucket. Got me about a 1/4" of movement but need UCA in my case
I'll try to get a picture of the driveline angle tomorrow.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:15 PM
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Is WJ Dana 44A an upgrade over the WJ Dana 35? Or are they both equally weak?
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MoUzEr99
Okay guy I recently bought a 99 Cherokee sport I love it but the guy said "oh it just needs a new cluster" (which it came with) I tore the dash apart after getting it home the next day put it in nothing... It came with a aftermarket radio too that won't work its hooked up correctly as I can tell what's my problem ? My warning lights come on and signals. My computers throwing a code for the cluster was well saying there isn't one ?
Check your grounds especially the one in the engine bay directly opposite the cluster.
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