D3UC3S

Drop the trans pan and the filyer and you will see them. They are very easy to change.

Bsulli

I just replaced my Power steering pump and lines but I'm still leaking fluid. It looks like the Steering box now. Does anyone know of any good stop leak additives to cure this untill I can afford to replace the box?

D3UC3S

The kit to rebuild your box is fairly cheap.

dukie564

orrrr rip one out of a Durango and throw that puppy in like I did

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/du...houghts-84331/

Bsulli

It looks like we had about the same leak covered area. I think I'm going to try the swap. Thanks for contributing a write-up I'll for sure be using it. That sucks to have it blow out right at the beginning of a trip. Hope it didn't ruin the whole day.

iggnant-1-XJ

Would i be better off selling my jeep as is or can i get more money parting it out?
Tons of new parts, runs perfect, tranny perfect, it just vibrates.

dukie564

definitely as-is

the vibration can easily be fixed with the correct driveline geometry

Kuro89

does anyone know the size of the 2 small oil filter adapter o-rings, I have the big one which I bought before I realized there was 2 more, I bought the o-ring a while ago so I can't return it and get the dealer kit

SNIDELYWHIPLASH

Here are the OEM part numbers and sizes for 1987-1992:

33002970 o-ring - .799 x .103
33002971 o-ring - 1.296 x .13

33002972 o-ring - 2.48 (this is the one you have)

You may not be able to find these locally. The whole set is available online as part number 33002970K

Kuro89

awesome, I'll just hunt around for them locally I just want the parts on hand so there are no trips to the auto parts store while everything is apart

Redragon17

Hey guys, I'm getting fuel all the way to the injectors, but not further than there. I have an 88 xj 4L I6. I have spark, Over 40lbs. fuel pressure, no fuel is getting to the cylinders.

I've replaced the ignition control module, and the crankshaft position sensor.

Any ideas? i've got nothing?

i need this thing fixed before i leave for BMT.

madbajan

Hi, Ive got an 86 Cherokee auto inline 6 , it has a perfect rust free body n 400000kms. Was working really well but had some weird electrical starting issues so I ended up bridging the starter to start it sometimes, other times it would start fine from the key. had a big run the other day up a long steep hill n I floored it for a while then parked it off. Now it refuses to start any way, just cranks but no spark? Strange thing. I like the power but the electrical system is a nightmare for me.........so many sensors etc.....how do I get the thing running.........its miles from town on a remote island in BC n I just want to get it rollin any which way I can, thanks, Adam.

Leefer1977

Ok here's the idiot question of the day. I was wasting lunch today and decided to look at lift kits (not the wasting part) and it got me thinking I have a 2 door Cherokee does that matter when I look at lift kits. I don't think it should but I know when I look at Axel's it should. And yes I looked on google and searched the boards but may have missed it

dukie564

it won't matter for lift kit or axles

adam121480

on my 1989 jeep cherokee 4.0 4dr 4x4 my rear 2 windows will roll up and down from the rear door switches and from the front drivers door switch. but my front 2 windows will not roll down from neither driver side nor passenger side window switches. the auto door lock switch wont work on the driver door switch. someone said my window lock switch may be out, how do i by pass it and why would the rear windows roll down from drivers panel but not front windows. and how can i bypass switch to see if its the window motors or the switches. because locating window switches has been hard.