salad

Nope. Did you use the freezer trick to install the bushings? If so this will effect the fitment of the bolts.

Smear some anti-seize on there and torque to spec. If it REALLY bothers you, you could try to seek out some slightly larger nuts and bolts. Minimum SAE grade 8 or ISO class 10.9.

Wow, someone actually bothered replacing the 2.8 with another 2.8??

What condition is the fluid in the AX-5? Not that you might not need to replace it, but simple things first...

SteveMongr

Yea, what Salad said.
I called a RockKrawler technician regarding the same issue with stock bolts on their bushings. "When bolt is tightened to spec, the bushing sleeve ends are captured and held by the bracket."
Tighten those bolts to specified torque, after jeep is resting on its suspension (wheels on ground).

Resources

First of all i'm 20 years old, new to jeeps, and new to forums. So I apologize if I need my hand held through some stuff. lol.
I recently bought a 99 cherokee sport, 4.0 5spd. For the first week it ran pretty well but had a little bit of a hard time starting, just cranking for up to maybe 7-8 seconds before turning over sometimes. Then it started leaking coolant out of the heater core house that runs down to the water pump. Once I replaced that, it had a much harder time starting, got it to start twice after endless cranking. Drove it around a bit and it ran fine. Shut it off and it won't start again. It's got spark. There's no fuel pressure at all at the fuel rail. And I also can't hear the fuel pump priming at all. I checked and it's not the fuel pump relay. I've heard about the common CPS problem. Is it that or probably the fuel pump? Any help would be appreciated!

crabmushrooms5

I would say fuel pump. Clogged fuel filter? Fuel check valve?

cruiser54

Try this:

Key to On, not start a few times before cranking. See if that helps.

884x4

do 99s have the fuel pump ballast resistor? I wonder if it's bad. maybe the fuel pump relay. you should be able to hear the pump prime

Ferrel

Nope, mine have hub caps that say jeep on them.
Seriously though, my front wheel bearings have something that resembles the end of a CV shaft going through it. (Except without any of the stuff from the hub in. If I remember correctly, it's got some sort of a flat plate on the inside.) When I replaced the hub I had to find it under the 4wd version of my jeep.

Resources

I turned the key to "on" a few times, still didn't hear the pump and still wouldn't start. Should I replace the pump? I figured I'd change the fuel filter while i'm at it. Also i'm on a budget, could I replace just the pump part, or would I be better off replacing the whole module?

1976gmc20

A plugged fuel filter can ruin the pump


I would change the filter first, possibly getting a helper to turn the key on momentarily while you have the filter out to (carefully!) see if any gas comes out. Also take apart the electric connector to the tank/pump and see if there is current to the pump when the key is on.


I speak of this from general experience with other vehicles than Jeep.

NewKindOfClown

Check the relay first...
Then the filter.

cruiser54

No resistor.

How about testing fuel pressure with a rented gauge first if you're on a budget, eh?

Adamkaijorg

Hey all I am completely new to this forum and somewhat new to jeeps. So thank you in advance for your help!

I have a np231 tc in my 91 2.5l XJ with a manual transmission. I can see that the tc I have in there now has no plug for the vacuum hoses that extend all the way from the hood. So I am assuming that the case was swapped at some point. So in 2wd everything works just fine. However it will only go into 4 lo if I crawl under and manually shift it with a wrench while slightly moving the tires and it takes a lot of force to shift it. Once it's in 4 lo I get the lower gears but it won't spin the front driveshaft. I have the posi lok for the front dana 30. With posi lok off and in 4 lo the front shaft won't spin. It will only spin if I engage the posi lok but getting no power to the front. Guess my question is do I rebuild it? Or am I missing something and there's aother way to go about fixing it. I am leaning towards picking up a rebuilt tc and throwing a sye in it and swapping it out. Thanks again!

salad

No serviceable filter on 1999s. It's just a sock on the pump module, in the tank.

^^^ Yep

NewKindOfClown

Should be:
4LO with Posi-Lok pushed in: 2LO (rear wheel drive)
4LO with Posi-Lok pulled out: 4LO (4WD)
2WD with Posi-Lok in either position: 2WD high range

The transfer case shifter should determine which output(s) is/are spinning. The Posi-Lok should lock the 2-piece axle shaft (passenger side front) together for 4WD without using the original vacuum motor.

I had Posi-Lok on my Comanche and felt it wasn't worth buying again for my uses. I currently have the factory system, but I pulled out the vacuum motor and shift fork, flipped it upside down, and locked the axle shafts together that way. The only downside is the front driveshaft always spins. That can be a problem if it isn't balanced.

clark40

Thanks but I've replaced my cam sensor twice and yes its aligned. So now I had this short expert take 4 hours to search, and according to him he found that my ignition harness is not stable. So I've searched and searched all over for a ignition harness and I found one in indianapolis at a salvage facility. You'd be amazed the prices for a harness. Jeep,mopar, nor chrysler could help me. Aftermarket prices make you go salvage. lol