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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 04-30-2015, 11:11 PM
  #49576  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Should be:
4LO with Posi-Lok pushed in: 2LO (rear wheel drive)
4LO with Posi-Lok pulled out: 4LO (4WD)
2WD with Posi-Lok in either position: 2WD high range

The transfer case shifter should determine which output(s) is/are spinning. The Posi-Lok should lock the 2-piece axle shaft (passenger side front) together for 4WD without using the original vacuum motor.

I had Posi-Lok on my Comanche and felt it wasn't worth buying again for my uses. I currently have the factory system, but I pulled out the vacuum motor and shift fork, flipped it upside down, and locked the axle shafts together that way. The only downside is the front driveshaft always spins. That can be a problem if it isn't balanced.
Looks like I need a new tc and my front drive shaft had a ton of play at the splines. Thanks for the info newkindofclown! I am assuming that with the 8 inch lift iwore out the front drive shaft . Should I be getting something aftermarket considering the angle of the front shaft as a replacement?
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:02 AM
  #49577  
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Tips for removing the two driver side transfer case nuts? I have all of them but those two out. the cage around it won't let me get a turn on a wrench. Then if I try a ratchet (1/4") it won't clear a bolt on the trans.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:06 AM
  #49578  
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Originally Posted by indeepwithajeep
Tips for removing the two driver side transfer case nuts? I have all of them but those two out. the cage around it won't let me get a turn on a wrench. Then if I try a ratchet (1/4") it won't clear a bolt on the trans.
9/16 stubby wrench with paracord tied to end, pullll.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:06 AM
  #49579  
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I prefer to use half moon shape wrench.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:24 AM
  #49580  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I prefer to use half moon shape wrench.
Good idea, the proper tool always saves time and trouble.
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:04 PM
  #49581  
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Default Parking lights shorting

I'm having issues with my parking lights coming on when I shut my Jeep off and also at random times. Typically I can get them off by turning the lights off AFTER turning the key off. But when they come on randomly I come back to a dead battery. Where should I start?
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:13 PM
  #49582  
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Originally Posted by Andyship10
I'm having issues with my parking lights coming on when I shut my Jeep off and also at random times. Typically I can get them off by turning the lights off AFTER turning the key off. But when they come on randomly I come back to a dead battery. Where should I start?
I would guess you have a late model Cherokee, higher trim level, with courtesy lights that stay on for a few seconds to illuminate your path at night. Again, I would guess there's an issue with that circuit.
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:10 PM
  #49583  
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I already checked and there's no pressure in the fuel lines. It's not the relay either. I'll try changing the filter first. Do I need a multimeter to check for power going to the plug just outside the gas tank?
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Old 05-01-2015, 05:21 PM
  #49584  
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So there is no external fuel filter. What I did find though is a box on the drivers side under the rear seat area. Of the two lines running from the gas tank, one goes to this box. It's broken right before the box on a rubber seal. Is this why it won't start?
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:44 PM
  #49585  
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After buying my lift and installing longer shackles, my measurement from the tire to the fender in the rear is 10" and in the front is 6.5". So the front is 3.5" lower than the rear....

I see people running spacer lifts, but would putting in spacers any larger than 2" or so have any negative effects? Stress the shocks more maybe? I don't plan on doing any hard wheeling until I get a few other projects finished up first, so that's why I'm considering spacers as a temporary fix.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:57 PM
  #49586  
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Tried search...nuthin. Does anyone know of a source for leaf spring parts. I bought a used 3" lift, and thought I'd rebuild them since the clips and such are pretty rough looking.
Thanks.


Tut, 2000 Ltd, Not many mods.....yet.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:24 PM
  #49587  
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Originally Posted by Resources
I already checked and there's no pressure in the fuel lines. It's not the relay either. I'll try changing the filter first. Do I need a multimeter to check for power going to the plug just outside the gas tank?
Yes, I definitely recommend that. If you don't have a multimeter already, go buy one if you plan on doing your own work.

Originally Posted by Resources
So there is no external fuel filter. What I did find though is a box on the drivers side under the rear seat area. Of the two lines running from the gas tank, one goes to this box. It's broken right before the box on a rubber seal. Is this why it won't start?
That's just the evap canister. It's filled with charcoal that soaks up gasoline vapours. There's a little solenoid under the hood that vents the contents into the intake when the thing gets full. Mine's been rusted off for some time, lol. When that line rusts out, gas vapours just go straight into the air.

Originally Posted by turver
After buying my lift and installing longer shackles, my measurement from the tire to the fender in the rear is 10" and in the front is 6.5". So the front is 3.5" lower than the rear....

I see people running spacer lifts, but would putting in spacers any larger than 2" or so have any negative effects? Stress the shocks more maybe? I don't plan on doing any hard wheeling until I get a few other projects finished up first, so that's why I'm considering spacers as a temporary fix.
Yes, you can run 2" spacers up front but remember that all of your front-end geometry changes.

What parts did you install exactly?

By the way, distance from tire to fender flare basically means nothing to the rest of us due to the different diameters of tires. Stock ride height is measured from the center of the hub caps to the bottom of the fender flare. Factory XJs measured 17" front and 17.5" rear.

Originally Posted by Tut
Tried search...nuthin. Does anyone know of a source for leaf spring parts. I bought a used 3" lift, and thought I'd rebuild them since the clips and such are pretty rough looking.
Thanks.


Tut, 2000 Ltd, Not many mods.....yet.
Searched where? Google? lol What exact parts are you searching for? The spring clips and centering bolts? Most offroad shops sell these bits. Quadratec comes to mind, there are about a thousand others.
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:16 AM
  #49588  
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Today I had the opportunity to climb and descend Rose Garden hill outside of Moab, Utah

What a fun day, other than the large dent in my Transmission pan and my Transmission cross member.

I think I can straighten the pan and maybe the cross member.

Question, While I have the pan off the Transmission, what should I look for and what service should I consider doing.

I see Transmission and Transfer Case Skid plates in my future. What brand does everyone like the best?

1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, Automatic Trans 231 Transfer Case.

RSWiser
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:30 AM
  #49589  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Have you tried the 'poor mans prime'? Turning the key to 'run' position, let fuel pump run until it stops (1-3 seconds). Then repeat, then attempt to start.

My 96 had a similar issue but very rarely, would have to floor gas pedal to get it to start. Problem is linked to coolant sensor in thermostat, go figure.
Haven't tried that, but I will.... does the 92 have the ECT sensor?

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20
Full throttle kicks it into "open loop" mode with default injector pulse ???
Originally Posted by SteveMongr
^ That is how I understand it. Why the correlation to the coolant temp sender I do not know, the CEL code was for that sender/harness.
Some one else had the same issue and new temp sender fixed it (in the thermostat housing).
Forum member CCKen also posted some technical info regarding the issue that confirmed the relation.
Originally Posted by salad
Yep. ECT sensor is used to determine injector pulse width. May have been to screwy to start.

That said... "warm-up" is supposed to be done in open loop. Open loop idle verus closed loop only changes in the use of the O2 sensor(s).
Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Thank You, one day I may replace that ECT sender.

..I just researched it. Believe I will replace it immediately. I have been suspecting poor mileage and reduced power (wife complains about it when she drives it).

"Related Symptoms to faulty ECT sensor.

Extended crank time when the engine is cold
Poor fuel economy
Spark knock
Lack of engine power
Erratic and/or high idle
Engine cooling fan stays running all the time
Engine cooling fan fails to turn on
Engine overheating"
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/ect-...mperature.html
Originally Posted by salad
You can test it with a multimeter if you're bored. The ECT and IAT provide the same resistance at the same temperature. With the engine cold you can tell which one is screwy. There's a chart around here somewhere... it's in the FSMs but I know cruiser's posted it before. Same resistance values as the Renix use
Thanks guys

Originally Posted by Ferrel
Nope, mine have hub caps that say jeep on them.
Seriously though, my front wheel bearings have something that resembles the end of a CV shaft going through it. (Except without any of the stuff from the hub in. If I remember correctly, it's got some sort of a flat plate on the inside.) When I replaced the hub I had to find it under the 4wd version of my jeep.
Yeah that's a unit-bearing.
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:37 AM
  #49590  
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Originally Posted by salad



That's just the evap canister. It's filled with charcoal that soaks up gasoline vapours. There's a little solenoid under the hood that vents the contents into the intake when the thing gets full. Mine's been rusted off for some time, lol. When that line rusts out, gas vapours just go straight into the air.

.
So, how is this any different than removing the CAT? Which can't even be wispered about.
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