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XJ Ask the Question Thread
No, I don't lick fish.
Salad, the parts I installed were a 3" leaf pack and 3" coil springs from Rustys. I also installed a set of .75" grease-able shackles. That's why I was surprised to see such a difference in the rear height compared to the front.
I will need to get an adjustable track bar once the jeep is leveled out.
My measurements from the center of the hub to the fender is 20" in the front and 23.5" in the rear. I feel like the shackle angle could contribute to the height difference, but it really isn't bad enough to relocate them at the moment.
I will need to get an adjustable track bar once the jeep is leveled out.
My measurements from the center of the hub to the fender is 20" in the front and 23.5" in the rear. I feel like the shackle angle could contribute to the height difference, but it really isn't bad enough to relocate them at the moment.
So what's so special about the eliminator tranny over the others? (Note, I said "others" because I don't know if this is an auto or manual)
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Nothing . I don't know what makes that trim level special to him. Eliminator was originally the 'muscle truck' trim, with 2WD, shortbed, 4.0L, bucket seats, and some creature comforts. I guess they changed that for '91 to bring it more in line with the other trims. The only thing special about it that I know of is the "Eliminator" decal on the sides.
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Not sure if you saw my reply in the lift and tire section or not yet but, the additional difference right now is due to it being a new leaf pack. It will settle over time... one thing I DIDN'T mention though is, the amount of "lift" you net with an extended shackle is determinate on the angle of said shackle... if it's straight up and down, an .75" will give you .75"... but if it's at 45* (which is the desirable angle for maximum spring travel), then you'll get exactly half that amount - .375" - so with that said, MOST of your difference in the rear is due to the pack not settling yet.
No, I don't lick fish.
Nothing . I don't know what makes that trim level special to him. Eliminator was originally the 'muscle truck' trim, with 2WD, shortbed, 4.0L, bucket seats, and some creature comforts. I guess they changed that for '91 to bring it more in line with the other trims. The only thing special about it that I know of is the "Eliminator" decal on the sides.
Basslicks, I just read your replies, thank you! My shackle angle isn't quite vertical, it's also not at a perfect 45 degree angle. It's right about in the middle. I'll drive the jeep around for a while like you suggested. Didn't occur to me that the new leaf pack would settle out...thanks!
I have 96 Cherokee country 4.0l...just started idling rough yesterday to the point of almost stalling until I give it gas...now the check engine light is on. I do not have a code reader so that hasn't been done...any ideas?
No, I don't lick fish.
Take it to an autoparts store like Oreiley's or Autozone and have them hook up their reader to it. It's free.
It's A 98 cherokee classic 4.0 4x4. It does have the courtesy lights which work when I have the headlights on, then shut them off after shutting the jeep off. But only the headlights stay on for that. The issue I'm having is with every other light.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Mistory Monday, NP 231 T-Case Rebuild???
I seak wisdom. I have drive line vibes comming front my t case... I think. I have rebuild and balanced the the front DS, set the axle pinion angle, and rebuild the front axle and I still have the vibes. When I remove the front ds the vibe compleatly goes away. I have also checked the front t case pinion torque.
I am 50% sure it's the t case. There is some slop in the front output shaft which I am thinking is causing the drive shaft to vibrate. Does this sound legit?
At this point I am planning on rebuilding the hole thing. I have had the t case apart before to install a SYE. I ordered a master install kit with all new seals, bearings and snap rings and picked up a bearing driver set. Does anyone have some lessons learned when doing a t case rebuild?
I am 50% sure it's the t case. There is some slop in the front output shaft which I am thinking is causing the drive shaft to vibrate. Does this sound legit?
At this point I am planning on rebuilding the hole thing. I have had the t case apart before to install a SYE. I ordered a master install kit with all new seals, bearings and snap rings and picked up a bearing driver set. Does anyone have some lessons learned when doing a t case rebuild?
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Year: 1999
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Ouch. There should be ZERO play in the front output. You'll probably have to do the needle bearings, which sucks.
Be patient, use proper snap ring pliers, don't scratch the case. NP231 is very simple as long as you keep track of the parts.
Be patient, use proper snap ring pliers, don't scratch the case. NP231 is very simple as long as you keep track of the parts.
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Ask the Question Thread
Originally Posted by salad
Ouch. There should be ZERO play in the front output. You'll probably have to do the needle bearings, which sucks.
Be patient, use proper snap ring pliers, don't scratch the case. NP231 is very simple as long as you keep track of the parts.
Be patient, use proper snap ring pliers, don't scratch the case. NP231 is very simple as long as you keep track of the parts.