09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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06-24-2015, 01:53 PM
Beach Bum
I grounded a subwoofer there for a while. Not the best location but it works. A compressor pulls a good amount of amps, be sure and make a good connection. During compressor operation, check ground wire and feel if it is hot.
06-24-2015, 03:17 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Alright thanks a lot. I'm gunna go for it. What will happen if it gets hot. What's worst case scenario here. Thanks again
06-24-2015, 03:35 PM
Beach Bum
Success, you just did. You can edit the post to include your question.
06-24-2015, 04:03 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ask the Question Thread
'93 Wrangler
I6, auto, NP231, D30/F8.8
Just like an XJ except I have a single cardan front DS (not CV).
When rolling the Jeep on flat ground (engine off, trans in N, TC in N) I get a loud pop from the front that sounds like something is binding. I can't seem to relate it directly to a number of tire or DS rotations. Popping occurs 1-2 times in a rolling distance of about 15ft.
I know it's vague, but any ideas?
I6, auto, NP231, D30/F8.8
Just like an XJ except I have a single cardan front DS (not CV).
When rolling the Jeep on flat ground (engine off, trans in N, TC in N) I get a loud pop from the front that sounds like something is binding. I can't seem to relate it directly to a number of tire or DS rotations. Popping occurs 1-2 times in a rolling distance of about 15ft.
I know it's vague, but any ideas?
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 06-24-2015 at 04:07 PM.
06-24-2015, 04:18 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I don't have an attitude im just letting you know that I stated in my first post that i mentioned that I did a tune up ive actually changed everything twice just to be extra sure im sorry if it seemed like i have an attitude just trying to figure out what i can't get rid of the misfire
I'm proud of you.
06-24-2015, 04:21 PM
Beach Bum
'93 Wrangler
I6, auto, NP231, D30/F8.8
Just like an XJ except I have a single cardan front DS (not CV).
When rolling the Jeep on flat ground (engine off, trans in N, TC in N) I get a loud pop from the front that sounds like something is binding. I can't seem to relate it directly to a number of tire or DS rotations. Popping occurs 1-2 times in a rolling distance of about 15ft.
I know it's vague, but any ideas?
I6, auto, NP231, D30/F8.8
Just like an XJ except I have a single cardan front DS (not CV).
When rolling the Jeep on flat ground (engine off, trans in N, TC in N) I get a loud pop from the front that sounds like something is binding. I can't seem to relate it directly to a number of tire or DS rotations. Popping occurs 1-2 times in a rolling distance of about 15ft.
I know it's vague, but any ideas?
06-24-2015, 04:29 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ask the Question Thread
My cherokeeforum educated guess would be a u-joint. Perhaps immediately after the pop, try to move a u-joint. Also just before a pop try and move the joints, looking for any difference in feel. If you are on smooth and level ground, can lay under jeep and rotate the DS to move jeep, feel for the pop.
Can I get a quick refresher from somebody on diagnosing a problem between these parts:
Ball joint
Ujoint
Hub
Thanks, fellas
06-24-2015, 05:35 PM
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
04 WJ 4.0 Cali emissions. Has anyone run headers and added dual exhaust to this set up? Is it worth the money to add another pipe? I'm looking at adding a header either way, just don't want to do the work twice. i KNOW I HAVE TO KEEP THE PRE-CATS AND ALL FOUR O2 SENSORS, JUST CURIOUS BEFORE I WASTE SOME CASH ON SOMETHING I DON'T NEED TO.
Last edited by GUARDIAN; 06-24-2015 at 06:02 PM.
06-24-2015, 06:42 PM
Beach Bum
My garage brain kicked in after my post, and I got wise. I've isolated it to spinning the driver side front tire, and the popping is independent of wheel speed or rotational travel.
Can I get a quick refresher from somebody on diagnosing a problem between these parts:
Ball joint
Ujoint
Hub
Thanks, fellas
Can I get a quick refresher from somebody on diagnosing a problem between these parts:
Ball joint
Ujoint
Hub
Thanks, fellas
U-joint = axle on jackstands, turn steering left or right some then rotate wheel. Look for movement in joint and listen for odd sounds.
Hub = axle on stands, grab wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and with one hand pulling the other pushing, feel for movement. Also try different hand positions. This will not rule out a bad bearing because they will usually drag or grind before they become loose. An IR temperature gun works great for diagnosing a bad wheel bearing.
06-24-2015, 06:49 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ask the Question Thread
Ball Joint = place axle on jackstand with wheel off ground. From front of jeep place 4'+ long prybar or 2x4 between tire and ground, lift on bar and watch ball joints for any movement.
U-joint = axle on jackstands, turn steering left or right some then rotate wheel. Look for movement in joint and listen for odd sounds.
Hub = axle on stands, grab wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and with one hand pulling the other pushing, feel for movement. Also try different hand positions. This will not rule out a bad bearing because they will usually drag or grind before they become loose. An IR temperature gun works great for diagnosing a bad wheel bearing.
U-joint = axle on jackstands, turn steering left or right some then rotate wheel. Look for movement in joint and listen for odd sounds.
Hub = axle on stands, grab wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and with one hand pulling the other pushing, feel for movement. Also try different hand positions. This will not rule out a bad bearing because they will usually drag or grind before they become loose. An IR temperature gun works great for diagnosing a bad wheel bearing.
EDIT: Ball joints need love, too
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 06-24-2015 at 07:00 PM.
06-24-2015, 07:31 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Update: so i tested all the injector harness and they test out good i guess my next step is to pull the head and check for a burnt valve or cracks i mean ive checked everything right ? Im not worried about pulling the head that's a easy hour job to get it off. Now while I have it off should I rebuild it or will i destroy the bottom end ?
Last edited by 88-Cherokee; 06-24-2015 at 09:00 PM.
06-24-2015, 10:28 PM
No, I don't lick fish.
Depends. There are several ways to flush a transmission, and most shops I've talked to can't even tell me which type they perform.
The only correct way is to disconnect the hoses and put the pickup in a bucket of clean fluid with the output in an empty bucket. Cycle fluid using the transmission's pump until clean red fluid comes out.
DO NOT EVER BACKFLUSH OR USE A PRESSURIZED FLUSH IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
The only correct way is to disconnect the hoses and put the pickup in a bucket of clean fluid with the output in an empty bucket. Cycle fluid using the transmission's pump until clean red fluid comes out.
DO NOT EVER BACKFLUSH OR USE A PRESSURIZED FLUSH IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
06-24-2015, 10:32 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
That's a risk when you flush any system. The thing is, though, that it isn't breaking anything; it's revealing a breakage. It is worth noting that if you flush a transmission the proper way, it sees the same pressure and direction of flow as normal. This means the chance of dislodging something is slim.
06-24-2015, 10:43 PM
No, I don't lick fish.
That's a risk when you flush any system. The thing is, though, that it isn't breaking anything; it's revealing a breakage. It is worth noting that if you flush a transmission the proper way, it sees the same pressure and direction of flow as normal. This means the chance of dislodging something is slim.