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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I heard it was normal for C-clip axles to have a play in them, but right now when I go over bumps at normal speed, I hear "clunk" type noise coming from, what I believe is, the rear-end. I don't have access to a jack right now so I can't check, but is it normal that at every other bump this happens? I also noticed when decelerating that I get a vibration (humming noise) which sounds like tires. But after looking online I learned it could be the gears, so could all this be linked? I think my front pinion bearing is going bad, so I think this might probably be it. What needs to be replaced in the diff at this point if that's my problem? I know I probably won't be able to do that myself, but at least to get an idea of the costs. Thanks!
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
I heard it was normal for C-clip axles to have a play in them, but right now when I go over bumps at normal speed, I hear "clunk" type noise coming from, what I believe is, the rear-end. I don't have access to a jack right now so I can't check, but is it normal that at every other bump this happens?
I also noticed when decelerating that I get a vibration (humming noise) which sounds like tires. But after looking online I learned it could be the gears, so could all this be linked? I think my front pinion bearing is going bad, so I think this might probably be it.
What needs to be replaced in the diff at this point if that's my problem? I know I probably won't be able to do that myself, but at least to get an idea of the costs.
Thanks!
I also noticed when decelerating that I get a vibration (humming noise) which sounds like tires. But after looking online I learned it could be the gears, so could all this be linked? I think my front pinion bearing is going bad, so I think this might probably be it.
What needs to be replaced in the diff at this point if that's my problem? I know I probably won't be able to do that myself, but at least to get an idea of the costs.
Thanks!
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The last time I checked u-joints were fine, but it can't hurt to check again. I didn't think about removing the front one and test it, I'll do that.
And yes, 4.5, no SYE (but can go up to 70 on the highway without vibration, it only happens upon deceleration)
Like I said I don't have access to a jack right now, normally I do this at my father's garage with access to everything I need on the weekends but was busy lately.
Thanks!
Last edited by Cane; 08-02-2015 at 09:11 AM.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Location: Florida
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ask the Question Thread
Harmonic imbalance that wouldn't be there if everything was within proper spec. A steering stabilizer only hides those issues
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
An alternate perspective: Saying that a steering stabilizer helps correct imbalances is akin to saying that shock absorbers make roads smoother
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My rear doors latch (not the tailgate) are pretty much stuck, both of them. Is there a way to take it apart and just clean everything, or is that complicated? My mechanic's suggestion was to get news ones from the JY, but haven't found any yet.
Also I've not tried anything as I can't get the doors open (unlocked). When I press the door handle button it will often stay "pushed" inside and that makes the manual lock button unable to go all the way and unlock the door. Looking for some help!
(it's not power locks, everything is manual)
Also I've not tried anything as I can't get the doors open (unlocked). When I press the door handle button it will often stay "pushed" inside and that makes the manual lock button unable to go all the way and unlock the door. Looking for some help!
(it's not power locks, everything is manual)
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My rear doors latch (not the tailgate) are pretty much stuck, both of them. Is there a way to take it apart and just clean everything, or is that complicated? My mechanic's suggestion was to get news ones from the JY, but haven't found any yet.
Also I've not tried anything as I can't get the doors open (unlocked). When I press the door handle button it will often stay "pushed" inside and that makes the manual lock button unable to go all the way and unlock the door. Looking for some help!
(it's not power locks, everything is manual)
Also I've not tried anything as I can't get the doors open (unlocked). When I press the door handle button it will often stay "pushed" inside and that makes the manual lock button unable to go all the way and unlock the door. Looking for some help!
(it's not power locks, everything is manual)
Had to rebuild or replace two of my outside door handles and two inside due to broken return springs. Took all the others off and disassembled, cleaned and lubed with silicone paste on the mechanisms and graphite lock lube in the key cylinders. They've all been perfect ever since, which was 20K miles/ year and a half ago.
As for getting them unlocked... getting the door panels off from side the jeep with the door shut isn't easy, but it is doable. I had one that was locked up like that, not to mention my hatch. I've never had much luck with slim-jims, but I suppose that could be an option as well.
Things to watch for: The outer door handles are different for pre- and post-1997 models, they look similar and will mount up, but the operation inside the door is opposite the early style. The mounting studs for them are bronze or some other soft alloy, so be mindful of breaking them. I broke one or two in the JY just pulling them looking for good replacements. Those steel nuts on bronze studs seize up pretty good.
Good luck!
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I ran into this on mine soon after I got it... (the WD-40 they sprayed on it probably wore off)
Had to rebuild or replace two of my outside door handles and two inside due to broken return springs. Took all the others off and disassembled, cleaned and lubed with silicone paste on the mechanisms and graphite lock lube in the key cylinders. They've all been perfect ever since, which was 20K miles/ year and a half ago.
As for getting them unlocked... getting the door panels off from side the jeep with the door shut isn't easy, but it is doable. I had one that was locked up like that, not to mention my hatch. I've never had much luck with slim-jims, but I suppose that could be an option as well.
Things to watch for: The outer door handles are different for pre- and post-1997 models, they look similar and will mount up, but the operation inside the door is opposite the early style. The mounting studs for them are bronze or some other soft alloy, so be mindful of breaking them. I broke one or two in the JY just pulling them looking for good replacements. Those steel nuts on bronze studs seize up pretty good.
Good luck!
Had to rebuild or replace two of my outside door handles and two inside due to broken return springs. Took all the others off and disassembled, cleaned and lubed with silicone paste on the mechanisms and graphite lock lube in the key cylinders. They've all been perfect ever since, which was 20K miles/ year and a half ago.
As for getting them unlocked... getting the door panels off from side the jeep with the door shut isn't easy, but it is doable. I had one that was locked up like that, not to mention my hatch. I've never had much luck with slim-jims, but I suppose that could be an option as well.
Things to watch for: The outer door handles are different for pre- and post-1997 models, they look similar and will mount up, but the operation inside the door is opposite the early style. The mounting studs for them are bronze or some other soft alloy, so be mindful of breaking them. I broke one or two in the JY just pulling them looking for good replacements. Those steel nuts on bronze studs seize up pretty good.
Good luck!