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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 08-17-2015, 02:42 PM
  #50791  
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
I know this has been asked a million times, so consider this a million and one. Whats the track bar mounting bracket bolt size(s)? Google is worthless sometimes.
I did some googling for you..

"the bolt that holds the trackbar to the front axle bracket is
1. metric.
2 a hair bigger than 3/8's as i rember since i redrilled my trackbar bracket.
3 it is grade 10.8 which is top of the line of grades there in metric.

so go to the dealer and get one.
you can get one at the part store but i doublt youll find the same high grade..
i stripped mine thats how i know, i backed it out with an impact and the axle weight was on it slightly took all the threads right off.
dont use a 3/8" either since that will leave slop in the joint which could give you Death wobble"
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:34 PM
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It is the same size as the UCAs.

M10x1.5 75mm long, ISO Class 10.9

The original specification used a flanged head, but you can use a hardened washer instead. The washer must be the same thing (M10 Class 10.9) or an SAE8 of a suitably tight fit.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:35 PM
  #50793  
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Originally Posted by indeepwithajeep
I did some googling for you..
Try harder lol, I've posted this a thousand times on this site :P

Originally Posted by indeepwithajeep
3 it is grade 10.8 which is top of the line of grades there in metric.
10.9, and the top end is 12.9.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:40 PM
  #50794  
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^^^LOL!!! You get em' salad
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Old 08-18-2015, 05:35 AM
  #50795  
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I'm installing a new Flowmaster Super 44 muffler and CAT this week. How do u guys feel about clamps vs. welded. I ordered both types of clamps but also could remove pipes and weld if it would be worth the hassle. Also, I have some high temp exhaust primer and paint. Are there any negative effects of painting the pipes? Thnx
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Old 08-18-2015, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaster343
I'm installing a new Flowmaster Super 44 muffler and CAT this week. How do u guys feel about clamps vs. welded. I ordered both types of clamps but also could remove pipes and weld if it would be worth the hassle. Also, I have some high temp exhaust primer and paint. Are there any negative effects of painting the pipes? Thnx
My thoughts are, what's the positive. It something you never see. Like pickups pitting fake dual tips just to look cool. As for the welded vs clamps. I'm tired of replacing my clamps. I would go welded if I wasn't lazy
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
My thoughts are, what's the positive. It something you never see. Like pickups pitting fake dual tips just to look cool. As for the welded vs clamps. I'm tired of replacing my clamps. I would go welded if I wasn't lazy
the real positive is corrosion resistance. I live by salt water in NY where they love to salt the roads in the winter. So I am just trying to extend the life of the system.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:35 AM
  #50798  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
My thoughts are, what's the positive. It something you never see. Like pickups pitting fake dual tips just to look cool. As for the welded vs clamps. I'm tired of replacing my clamps. I would go welded if I wasn't lazy
Stainless clamps cost double but last indefinitely.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:55 AM
  #50799  
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More then likely it will just "burn off" (long term)..but it will show you where the pipes are getting the hotest..in the long run..the spots that " burn off" first, is where your rusted out pinholes will be...
I don't have any idea why this works...but if you spray inside of pipes (the bends you can get at) it will protect the pipes from their initial "overheat" that happens with new pipe..that seems to weaken them forever at those spots..Before everyone starts jumping up and down..LOL...I give you this...Good Bike Shops and those "in the know" ..spray all Bike pipes because it stops the initial overheating in the curves leading to that brigbt blue burn stain on cbrome pipes...like I said it works..I just don't why...
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:40 AM
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Can I get the rear half of the transfer case off without removing the front yoke on the tcase? I don't need to remove the chain or any internals, just put the mode shift fork spring back in.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Can I get the rear half of the transfer case off without removing the front yoke on the tcase? I don't need to remove the chain or any internals, just put the mode shift fork spring back in.
Yes
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Can I get the rear half of the transfer case off without removing the front yoke on the tcase? I don't need to remove the chain or any internals, just put the mode shift fork spring back in.
Yes

Are you asking about the detent spring? That is accessible from the outside. The spring rests inside the large "bolt" that sticks out the bottom of the case, and a bullet shaped cover goes over the top of it. Remove the bolt, insert spring and cover, reinstall.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Can I get the rear half of the transfer case off without removing the front yoke on the tcase? I don't need to remove the chain or any internals, just put the mode shift fork spring back in.
Yes
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:56 AM
  #50804  
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Originally Posted by Jaster343
the real positive is corrosion resistance. I live by salt water in NY where they love to salt the roads in the winter. So I am just trying to extend the life of the system.
Do it. I always paint my exhaust with BBQ black paint. It help extend the life to extra 6 months to one year. Lol. Don't expect to get another 10 years with few coats of paint.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:56 AM
  #50805  
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Yes
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