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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ask the Question Thread
APTech,
Thanks for posting the solution. We ask have those moments from time to time, and I'm glad it was something simple
Thanks for posting the solution. We ask have those moments from time to time, and I'm glad it was something simple
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Joliet, Il
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
radiator lower transmission line
Quick question. I'm doing some PM and replacing the my rad and doing a system flush. I pulled the new radiator out of my old 96xj (it was used for about one month) and I am planning on putting into my newer 96xj. I have everything out and ready to be swapped however, the lower trans fitting is throwing me off.
The new rad does not have the metal elbow coming out from it. Is there a way I can remove it from the old rad and install into the new? I'm reffering to the lower trans fitting in this scenario. let me know if there are other options besides buying a new radiator that already has the fitting on it. thanks
The new rad does not have the metal elbow coming out from it. Is there a way I can remove it from the old rad and install into the new? I'm reffering to the lower trans fitting in this scenario. let me know if there are other options besides buying a new radiator that already has the fitting on it. thanks
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
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3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Quick question. I'm doing some PM and replacing the my rad and doing a system flush. I pulled the new radiator out of my old 96xj (it was used for about one month) and I am planning on putting into my newer 96xj. I have everything out and ready to be swapped however, the lower trans fitting is throwing me off.
The new rad does not have the metal elbow coming out from it. Is there a way I can remove it from the old rad and install into the new? I'm reffering to the lower trans fitting in this scenario. let me know if there are other options besides buying a new radiator that already has the fitting on it. thanks
The new rad does not have the metal elbow coming out from it. Is there a way I can remove it from the old rad and install into the new? I'm reffering to the lower trans fitting in this scenario. let me know if there are other options besides buying a new radiator that already has the fitting on it. thanks
The one I bought from CarQuest had the fittings already brazed on.
It seems to depend on brand, but they could be hiding in the box.
alternator
First off, 99 xj 4.0 auto
I have had problem with charging system, first began with battery gauge dropping from just about 14 to near 12.5 then dropping to 9. It would bounce between these three numbers intermittently for nearly a month and especially after driving for a few minutes. Some days this does not happen at all and no noticeable impact on radio, wipers, or blower motor operation, or even headlights. First i thought alternator, so i had it tested several ways and using different machines with all tests good, battery was also good, checked connections and good, voltmeter at battery even shows 13.86 while running. Then one day i drove to store and when i went to leave my battery did not have enough power to start it and when started it would only continue to run with the throttle pressed a little and tests on battery and alt were good again. The only other issue is a single dtc (sorry dont recall actual code #) that indicates that bank 1 sensor 2 shorted to voltage, and i inspected both the connector and wire for corrosion and/or damage that connects the O2 sensor and all seems well. Could this be related? Or just a regulator that only seems to want to work correctly when being tested?
Any info would be greatly apprciated, thanks.
I have had problem with charging system, first began with battery gauge dropping from just about 14 to near 12.5 then dropping to 9. It would bounce between these three numbers intermittently for nearly a month and especially after driving for a few minutes. Some days this does not happen at all and no noticeable impact on radio, wipers, or blower motor operation, or even headlights. First i thought alternator, so i had it tested several ways and using different machines with all tests good, battery was also good, checked connections and good, voltmeter at battery even shows 13.86 while running. Then one day i drove to store and when i went to leave my battery did not have enough power to start it and when started it would only continue to run with the throttle pressed a little and tests on battery and alt were good again. The only other issue is a single dtc (sorry dont recall actual code #) that indicates that bank 1 sensor 2 shorted to voltage, and i inspected both the connector and wire for corrosion and/or damage that connects the O2 sensor and all seems well. Could this be related? Or just a regulator that only seems to want to work correctly when being tested?
Any info would be greatly apprciated, thanks.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Wen I bought a rad for my Wrangler from Advance Auto, the fittings were in a little bag in a corner of the box where the cardboard was folded over them. I didn't even see them until I took it back to return it.
The one I bought from CarQuest had the fittings already brazed on.
It seems to depend on brand, but they could be hiding in the box.
The one I bought from CarQuest had the fittings already brazed on.
It seems to depend on brand, but they could be hiding in the box.
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
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3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
First off, 99 xj 4.0 auto
I have had problem with charging system, first began with battery gauge dropping from just about 14 to near 12.5 then dropping to 9. It would bounce between these three numbers intermittently for nearly a month and especially after driving for a few minutes. Some days this does not happen at all and no noticeable impact on radio, wipers, or blower motor operation, or even headlights. First i thought alternator, so i had it tested several ways and using different machines with all tests good, battery was also good, checked connections and good, voltmeter at battery even shows 13.86 while running. Then one day i drove to store and when i went to leave my battery did not have enough power to start it and when started it would only continue to run with the throttle pressed a little and tests on battery and alt were good again. The only other issue is a single dtc (sorry dont recall actual code #) that indicates that bank 1 sensor 2 shorted to voltage, and i inspected both the connector and wire for corrosion and/or damage that connects the O2 sensor and all seems well. Could this be related? Or just a regulator that only seems to want to work correctly when being tested?
Any info would be greatly apprciated, thanks.
I have had problem with charging system, first began with battery gauge dropping from just about 14 to near 12.5 then dropping to 9. It would bounce between these three numbers intermittently for nearly a month and especially after driving for a few minutes. Some days this does not happen at all and no noticeable impact on radio, wipers, or blower motor operation, or even headlights. First i thought alternator, so i had it tested several ways and using different machines with all tests good, battery was also good, checked connections and good, voltmeter at battery even shows 13.86 while running. Then one day i drove to store and when i went to leave my battery did not have enough power to start it and when started it would only continue to run with the throttle pressed a little and tests on battery and alt were good again. The only other issue is a single dtc (sorry dont recall actual code #) that indicates that bank 1 sensor 2 shorted to voltage, and i inspected both the connector and wire for corrosion and/or damage that connects the O2 sensor and all seems well. Could this be related? Or just a regulator that only seems to want to work correctly when being tested?
Any info would be greatly apprciated, thanks.
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
1) Battery to fender
2) Engine to firewall
3) Dipstick tube
4) The starter grounds itself to the trans bellhousing, and oil leaks/contamination can disrupt this.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...und_straps.htm
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 08-19-2015 at 06:19 PM.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Ask the Question Thread
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245993828. Doesn't hurt to also do this at the same time too...
Senior Member
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Location: Joliet, Il
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Wen I bought a rad for my Wrangler from Advance Auto, the fittings were in a little bag in a corner of the box where the cardboard was folded over them. I didn't even see them until I took it back to return it.
The one I bought from CarQuest had the fittings already brazed on.
It seems to depend on brand, but they could be hiding in the box.
The one I bought from CarQuest had the fittings already brazed on.
It seems to depend on brand, but they could be hiding in the box.
But fortunately the one I bought at AZ had a lifetime warranty and the guy just swapped the rad I had from my part out xj (no fitting) with the same brand new one (with the fitting). So i have it all figured out now. Except I didn't put enough RTV on the thermostat gasket and sprung a leak
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
But yeah... that stuff reeks.
Seasoned Member
If it doesnt's start or just clicks and the lights go off when you hit the starter, 9 times out of 10 it's a bad battery connection.
You'd be amazed at how many people have bad battery connections. It may work for weeks or months, then one day.. zilch.
You may want to pull the terminals again and cover them with white electrical grease, then clamp them down tightly and cover the whole terminal with the stuff.
Then you can just about forget about it for a few years.
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Ga.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
..and its still tacky after a year...
On another note: google "worlds fastest hill climb car" ...Fiat X 1/9 with Suzuki Hyabussa (650 HP) ..its unreal..