09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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09-23-2015, 10:10 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Are you using Crown or Omix-ADA bushings? that would be the problem. Use genuine Clevite, should be stamped in rubber.
I switched from skyjacker leafs with rubber bushings, to BDS 7 leaf with poly bushings. The poly bushings have less 'squirm' and are supposed to reduce body roll and reduce lean when driving off-camber.
I like the more stable feel, but on rough pavement or washboard roads, more of it is transmitted into chassis.
fyi, Most aftermarket shackles have poly bushings. I ended up with Clayton shackles that use an oversize Clevite rubber bushing (have to clearance bumper bolts to fit).
I switched from skyjacker leafs with rubber bushings, to BDS 7 leaf with poly bushings. The poly bushings have less 'squirm' and are supposed to reduce body roll and reduce lean when driving off-camber.
I like the more stable feel, but on rough pavement or washboard roads, more of it is transmitted into chassis.
fyi, Most aftermarket shackles have poly bushings. I ended up with Clayton shackles that use an oversize Clevite rubber bushing (have to clearance bumper bolts to fit).
09-23-2015, 03:07 PM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Rubber clevite bushings are designed so that the inner sleeve is immobilized by the bolt and the rubber twists around as needed then returns to resting position. They have to be torqued at normal ride stance (and torqued again periodically as the ride settles), otherwise they will be under constant stress and fail quickly. Poly bushings are designed to turn around the sleeve.
09-24-2015, 06:58 AM
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Model: Cherokee
99 Jeep Grand Cherokee stalls while driving
The jeep is 8cyl and I live in Florida so heat index is always up there. While driving down the road at 45 mph the thing stalls for no reason! Just powers off with no warning plus no check engine light or other warnings. Then it will start anywhere from 1-2 minutes later & was 5 or more the other day. Sometimes it stalls at light too but it doesn't discriminate! Fuel pump replaced & injector cleaner is what mechanic suggested since it is at 187K miles but nope still doing it!
So I took it to where they could run diagnostics for codes etc. $100 & nothing! Told my mechanic about Googling cam shaft or crank shaft sensors. He says no the jeep wouldn't crank if those were bad. He thinks it might be PCM but I am gun shy after spending already $500 & the PCM is not cheap.
So I took it to where they could run diagnostics for codes etc. $100 & nothing! Told my mechanic about Googling cam shaft or crank shaft sensors. He says no the jeep wouldn't crank if those were bad. He thinks it might be PCM but I am gun shy after spending already $500 & the PCM is not cheap.
Last edited by Lainey; 09-24-2015 at 07:10 AM.
09-24-2015, 07:05 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Ok honestly my guy knows nothing about cars & I know enough to keep me from getting screwed normally (father was mechanic). But I have no clue what to do. The jeep is 8cyl and live in Florida. I had fuel pump replaced, injector cleaner used although mechanic said they look good. While driving down the road at 45 mph the thing stalls for no reason! Just powers off with no warning plus no check engine light or other warnings. Then it will start anywhere from 1
-2 minutes later & was 5 or more the other day.
Fuel pump didn't fix so took it to where they could run for codes etc. $100 & nothing! Told my mechanic about Googling cam shaft or crank shaft sensors. He says no the jeep wouldn't crank if those were bad. He thinks it might be PCM but I am gun shy after spending already $500 & the PCM is not cheap.
-2 minutes later & was 5 or more the other day.
Fuel pump didn't fix so took it to where they could run for codes etc. $100 & nothing! Told my mechanic about Googling cam shaft or crank shaft sensors. He says no the jeep wouldn't crank if those were bad. He thinks it might be PCM but I am gun shy after spending already $500 & the PCM is not cheap.
09-24-2015, 07:37 AM
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09-24-2015, 07:54 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
09-24-2015, 08:48 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So I attempted to remove what I thought was some simple surface rust and discovered the worst thing possible... Any idea how I should attack this? It seems to be rusting from the inside out.
09-24-2015, 08:57 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
That may beyond bondo. Can't wait to see peoples response. May need to cut and put back new sheet metal
09-24-2015, 09:05 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I was worried about that but I feel like if I can force enough bondo into the holes it will fill in the small space behind them and have plenty of support. That still wouldn't solve the rust issue though unfortunately.
09-24-2015, 09:16 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
My drivers door is starting to look the same way, not as holy, and eventually I gonna be in the same boat.
09-24-2015, 09:34 AM
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
09-24-2015, 09:58 AM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Otherwise cut it out, cut a piece a of sheetmetal a little larger, drill some holes in both pieces, and fish it in there. You can epoxy or weld, as needed. Then fill it and sand it and paint it
09-24-2015, 10:23 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looking to replace my driving lights (fogs). I should be looking for 55w or under with stock wiring correct? Would I benefit from doing the "headlight wiring upgrade" on the driving lights? Any good suggestions?
Last edited by crabmushrooms5; 09-24-2015 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Isolate the driving light switch?
09-24-2015, 11:30 AM
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
yes u will, in fact the harness should be one of first things u do when u get a XJ
09-25-2015, 08:19 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Any suggestion for sheet metal to repair it? Aluminum or Steel? Gauge? Does it really matter? I don't have a welder, so it would have to be riveted in place or I would have to use J.B. Weld or Epoxy