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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Oregon
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The previous owner of my 96 XJ (my brother) replaced the engine with one from a 01 TJ (I verified the engine number awhile ago) My question is this: I'm in the process of planning out a new exhaust system (nothing fancy) and I want to replace the stock 2001 exhaust manifold (precats and two inop. O2 sensors) with a header made for a 1996 4.0L, will the header bolt to the 0331 DUPY head without modification?
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Location: Oregon
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I'm a single lady and have been getting a lot of help from friends but they are all out of ideas. Have brought the vehicle, 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 - 6. to two different shops but they didnt know.Found two friends that at least care.
first guy (not friend)changed the cam sensor and replaced hoses and then it stopped cutting off which was good. He charged 180 dollars. but then I could not go faster than 40 with all kinds of codes being outputed. I've had codes P0300, P0353, P0455, P0442. Multiple misfires on Cyl. 1 & 6. Second guy changed the coil pack and spark plugs and there was no change. 3rd guy replaced ECM, no change. If I pull over and shut it off, something clears and it runs OK for a day or so. The co. whrer I got the ECM, sent another one just to make sure. And that didn't fix the problem.
first guy (not friend)changed the cam sensor and replaced hoses and then it stopped cutting off which was good. He charged 180 dollars. but then I could not go faster than 40 with all kinds of codes being outputed. I've had codes P0300, P0353, P0455, P0442. Multiple misfires on Cyl. 1 & 6. Second guy changed the coil pack and spark plugs and there was no change. 3rd guy replaced ECM, no change. If I pull over and shut it off, something clears and it runs OK for a day or so. The co. whrer I got the ECM, sent another one just to make sure. And that didn't fix the problem.
Has anyone replaced the fuel filter? Mine was pretty bad and gave me cylinder misfire codes before I changed it.
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So I have my transfer case out and I'm looking at my transmission output shaft. How much play is acceptable in this shaft? I can move it vertically a good 1/8th inch during which it clunks, no play laterally
Last edited by gyrator930; 10-02-2015 at 06:48 PM.
Recently bought an 88' Cherokee XJ with a 4.0. When I went to go see it wouldn't start. But after unplugging and re connecting the CPS it ran but really roughly. Idles low at around 200-300 rpms. Replaced the tps, cleaned throttle body and IAC, replaced lower O2 with the upstream on order and installing soon (was pretty nasty). Also have a MAP sensor just installed as well. Replaced the dreaded CPS and still no major improvement. The valvle cover gasket looks like it needs to be replaced. When I rev it up then let off the gas it usually kills it but will start back up and continue to idle roughly. Also replaced fuel filter. I've done some slight adjustments to tps but it really only either cranks rpms up to 2500-3000 rpms at idle until I kill it, comes close to killing it or has it idle like usual. Any ideas on would be greatly appreciated. I've done a lot of research but so far efforts have not seen any real results. PO installed tps so maybe I needs to be correctly adjusted with multi meter?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
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36 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
The previous owner of my 96 XJ (my brother) replaced the engine with one from a 01 TJ (I verified the engine number awhile ago) My question is this: I'm in the process of planning out a new exhaust system (nothing fancy) and I want to replace the stock 2001 exhaust manifold (precats and two inop. O2 sensors) with a header made for a 1996 4.0L, will the header bolt to the 0331 DUPY head without modification?
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
The previous owner of my 96 XJ (my brother) replaced the engine with one from a 01 TJ (I verified the engine number awhile ago) My question is this: I'm in the process of planning out a new exhaust system (nothing fancy) and I want to replace the stock 2001 exhaust manifold (precats and two inop. O2 sensors) with a header made for a 1996 4.0L, will the header bolt to the 0331 DUPY head without modification?
Whether the exhaust ports will match is another matter. The 0331 head has different exhaust port shape and sizes. See the following link: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi...p=32414#p32416
A few 2000 model year 4.0Ls shipped with a "Federal Emissions" package that only used a single large catalytic converter, like previous years. The manifold is in two pieces: The upper portion is the same as 50-state emissions, but instead of the mini cats this is bolted in place:
Since your XJ is 1996 you can just remove the mini cat section and put in the pipe pictured above.
I gotta ask though... what possessed them to put a 2001 TJ engine into a 1996 XJ? And how do you know that it has the later casting head? (It's TUPY btw)
If you were mechanically inclined you could sell the 0331 TUPY (if indeed it is one) to someone with a cracked vanilla 0331 that has to meet later emissions, and buy a used 0630 or something...
Last edited by salad; 10-02-2015 at 10:26 PM.
CF Veteran
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Location: Southern Maryland
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Litchfield Park, az
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Yes, my XJ is a 94, the reason I am curious about swaps is twofold, for my 94 XJ and flat fender that is currently running a Toyota 22R. The 4.0 simply kicks the 22Rs butt in torque and power, a little heavy but I like the trade off. I am seriously thinking about re-building it with all XJ or put it on a frame from one of the coil spring Jeeps. As far as the 94 ,, who knows, might need a motor tomorrow or never but if I come across a Jeep with a good motor, maybe rolled or hit in the rear for next to nothing, I just want to know if I should grab it and part it or not. Thank You all for the info
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 414
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter Inline 6
Are the axle tubes of a Chrysler 8.25 dry like the front Dana 30? The front Dana 30 has inner axle seals by the differential correct?
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Changing TPS on my 99 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0, 6 cylinder using T20 torx bit. The first screw came out fairly easy but I could tell the screw head was soft. I put the bit in the second one and gently tried turning it with barely any pressure. Stripped inside the head so easily. Put first screw back in and it stripped at 1/4 turn of the ratchet. It is such a tight spot to get into. First, how do I get that one out with no room for any tool other than a small ratchet? Second, what is the length, diameter and thread count of the screws? I don't get why the screws are so soft. I can gouge the head with my fingernail. Please help. Thanks.
Still not idling correctly, sputters/hesitates when hitting the gas
Ok so I posted earlier everything I'd done so far plus I have now adjusted the tps to spec with a multi meter and still idling poorly. Any ideas? Should I just replace the IAC rather then trying to clean it? Scared it might be do thing more major then just sensors that is keeping it from running right... When I had the tps whist all the way up it would start and idle at 2000 rpms until I back it off just a little and it could go back to its low, rough idling.. Very confused and running out of ideas that could be causing this
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ok so I posted earlier everything I'd done so far plus I have now adjusted the tps to spec with a multi meter and still idling poorly. Any ideas? Should I just replace the IAC rather then trying to clean it? Scared it might be do thing more major then just sensors that is keeping it from running right... When I had the tps whist all the way up it would start and idle at 2000 rpms until I back it off just a little and it could go back to its low, rough idling.. Very confused and running out of ideas that could be causing this