ehall

The D30 bearings and seals are all inside the pumpkin, the rear axle(s) have bearings and seals at the outside of the tube. Diff fluid lubricates the bearings

redrooster

Hi - I need a referral to a Jeep XJ repair service ('88 Laredo) in San Francisco that is GOOD and can help me with all my repair needs.

It could be a shop, or maybe someone you know who does work "on the side".

All answers are welcome. Thanks, RObert

JayXJ

My brother's wife baked the engine (the Jeep was her DD) and he picked up the current engine from a low mileage wreck for a couple hundred bucks to get her back on the road.


The engine casting number is 53010328AB, the head casting number is 0331 and when you remove the oil filler cap you can see "TUPY" (not DUPY like I said, lol) cast into the head. I managed to dig up the pics I took awhile ago but I can't figure out how to post them.


I wanted to reply to thank you for your help salad...Thank You.


What started all of this is my cat is rattling like crazy when idling, so I figure I need to replace it. Originally I was looking at a new cat and a catback system for around $300 (Magnaflo cat and Dynomax catback). The thing is the exhaust is all welded from the manifold flange to the tail pipe and it doesn't look like there is going to be a clean place to cut and hook up the cat. So I'm looking at replacing the whole exhaust and maybe get a lil performance boost while I do it.


Thanks again for your help salad...I'll let you know what I come up with. Maybe even post pics if I figure that out too.

94XJAZ

No the 8.25 is wet out to the bearings and sealed at the end of the tubes to the axle. Typical C clip axle.

94XJAZ

Thanks Cruiser,,,
So if I understand it correctly, if I have a blank slate IE my flat fender I can get more less any 4.0, build mounts and also bolt an AW4/231 combo behind it and have the same or better performance as the XJ? At that some parts are interchangeable but not all. The blocks are all good its just some heads have cracking issues and the head to block bolt pattern is the same on all? Does that sound correct? Do any of the (4.0 type) blocks have bigger displacement or stroker as compared to the XJ block IE more horse power or a better start point than others but maybe not a bolt in for an XJ?

NewKindOfClown

Any 4.0L I6 is comparable in power, with later models performing slightly better than earlier versions. The primary exterior difference is the electrical system, to include sensors and ignition.

Wrangler motors will be significantly different than XJ or ZJ motors due to bracketry, but that could be swapped.

As for a stroker, the cheap route is to use a 4.0L block with certain 4.2L (carbureted 258) internals. Information is widely available by searching for the Poor Man's Stroker.

94XJAZ

Thank you, I appreciate all the info.

onemoonbeam

About a year ago the fuel pump was replaced. I think the filter was done but don't know for sure.

It's interesting that I start it and it goes about a mile and the check engine light flashes and the engine shutters. I turn it off and back on and then it's OK for a while especially on highway. Seems to act up worse at slower speed.

NewKindOfClown

Can anyone tell me the model year(s) application for two dash clocks, part numbers: 8956002291 and 56002814?

The first one (...2291) also has the number 0217 on the back. It looks like the first one in this pic, but it has a black plug.
The second one (...2814) looks like the second one in this picture.

4WD4EVER

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoDashClock.htm

NewKindOfClown

Edit: Sorry, I didn't mean to sound like such a huge *******. The 2814 number was listed further down the page in another section. Wiring colors on my 2291 don't match the black model they show, but it's suggested to be from an '88.

I'm trying to determine compatibility so I can sell them

4WD4EVER

No worries. 2291 is from '88. The other from '89.

BimmerJeeper

Rear wiper. What size is that inner lock nut ?
22mm too small. 24mm too big.
Is 23mm the 15/16" SAE ?

nickengels

Hey guys, real simple recommendation question. My right front shock on my 2000 XJ classic finally rusted out today and was leaking hydraulic fluid. At this point I figured it would be logical to replace shocks all the way around. Its stock suspension, no lift. What brand of shocks do you recommend to give the best bang for the buck? obviously suspension isn't something to go cheap on, but I don't feel like breaking the bank either. Suggestions??

Velcro

Bilstein is about the best and usually fairly affordable ($60 a piece). If you never plan to lift I'd go with those. Have them on my 2500 suburban and they made it handle like a 1500. They last too and should be covered by the lifetime warranty if they leak.