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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Need to locate emissions hose set for 4 CYLINDER 1990 XJ
My XJ failed its California Smog so I took it to my mechanic to replace the cracked and broken hoses that are at fault. Only he's telling me he's having a ***** of a time finding replacement hoses; all his suppliers are telling him they were discontinued years ago.
I spent the weekend hunting online myself and can find plenty of sets that work with a 6 CYLINDER base model but not one for a 4 CYLINDER like mine. Does anyone know what dealers sell replacement emission hoses? Have to get the Jeep fixed and re-smogged ASAP...
Thanks in advance.
Best,
CJ
I spent the weekend hunting online myself and can find plenty of sets that work with a 6 CYLINDER base model but not one for a 4 CYLINDER like mine. Does anyone know what dealers sell replacement emission hoses? Have to get the Jeep fixed and re-smogged ASAP...
Thanks in advance.
Best,
CJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ahh well, it is the last piece in the hvac puzzle. Should have done it with evap core. Might as well delete the heater control valve too
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm sure there are a thousand thread regarding cooling but this is a lot easier to answer a couple of questions than starting a fresh thread or resurrecting an old one.
1) 200*-210* F is general running temp?
2) The thermo fan kicks in at 217*-218* or close to it?
3) 50/50 Glycol/Water is the best mixture?
4) If I happened to have a brain fart and forgot to flush the radiator when the rest of the system was flushed during a thermostat swap, It's pointless flushing the system again with the thermostat still in?
I appreciate any responses
Cheers
Ben
1) 200*-210* F is general running temp?
2) The thermo fan kicks in at 217*-218* or close to it?
3) 50/50 Glycol/Water is the best mixture?
4) If I happened to have a brain fart and forgot to flush the radiator when the rest of the system was flushed during a thermostat swap, It's pointless flushing the system again with the thermostat still in?
I appreciate any responses
Cheers
Ben
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I'm sure there are a thousand thread regarding cooling but this is a lot easier to answer a couple of questions than starting a fresh thread or resurrecting an old one.
1) 200*-210* F is general running temp?
2) The thermo fan kicks in at 217*-218* or close to it?
3) 50/50 Glycol/Water is the best mixture?
4) If I happened to have a brain fart and forgot to flush the radiator when the rest of the system was flushed during a thermostat swap, It's pointless flushing the system again with the thermostat still in?
I appreciate any responses
Cheers
Ben
1) 200*-210* F is general running temp?
2) The thermo fan kicks in at 217*-218* or close to it?
3) 50/50 Glycol/Water is the best mixture?
4) If I happened to have a brain fart and forgot to flush the radiator when the rest of the system was flushed during a thermostat swap, It's pointless flushing the system again with the thermostat still in?
I appreciate any responses
Cheers
Ben
2) The electric fan kicks on at 218, depending on model year. The mechanical one gradually builds up to full rage... Not sure where it stops.
3) Yep good ol' green coolant
4) Disconnect the radiator and flush it on its own
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
New shackles bent?
Do these shackes look bent or are they suppose to be this way. They're brand new stock ones off Summit going on 3.5" RE full leaf pack and the bolt doesn't go through straight. Same hight length and width as stock. New ones are identical to each other. Do I just need to clamp it tight?
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I've never seen shackles bent that way, and they don't seem very strong to me. That isn't thick steel, and I don't see any bends to add rigidity
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Got the bolt to the other eyelet and stared to clamp it to get it through. This is how it sits.
Couple light taps of a hammer got the bolt all the way through
Couple light taps of a hammer got the bolt all the way through
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
That's odd. They're supposed to look similar to this:
Either way you tighten the ever loving crap out of the bolt, yes.
Either way you tighten the ever loving crap out of the bolt, yes.
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Those shackles look cheap. Those should have a bend in them for rigidity like clown said. Here is a pic of an OEM shackle