Bugout4x4

At .030 over the cylinder walls are going to be thinner and it may run a bit warmer. May want to make sure your cooling system is up to par before summer. But you are doing this at the right time of the year! A new engine tends to run hot for awhile as it breaks in, the cooler weather will help a lot with this.

CAT_Tech2

Thanks for the info and from what I understand they do have to be pressed in and out unfortunately. The only other thing I have to contest with is my crank still needs to be turned. after I get my pistons this week itl be onto getting the rest of my rebuild kit

Twinfin

Ive got a 94 XJ Inline 6 and Im having difficulty sometimes with it not cranking. Its a random occurrence. What happens is when I open the door ive got full power I.E. Interior lights are bright, headlights come on bright, all accessories work etc but when I go to turn the key to start all power gets cut from the vehicle and it wont crank. It doesn't turn over it just clicks once and everything shuts down. I replaced the battery and starter recently and replaced the terminals and spliced the wires about an inch down and reconnected those as well. Other times it starts right up. Ive gotten around it by loosening the positive cable adjusting it and tightening it back down. The only odd thing ive noticed is that when it clicks and power is cut the positive terminal gets warm but only the positive side. Ive cleaned and re-cleaned terminals made sure its got good contact, made sure everything is tight. all wires are connected and grounded properly and there are no cuts in the wire that run to the started either. any tips or suggestions on what to do next?

LazyRPeople2

Hello. This is my first post...hope it's in the correct place. I picked up a 2000 XJ Sport a little over a year ago (4.0, AW4, NP242, Up Country, all stock). Has a little over 80K on it as of today. I've been doing small maintenance jobs on it since I got it.

What I'm trying to resolve now is a front end vibration/looseness. I've had the tires replaced (which helped somewhat). I then replaced the track bar as a mechanic I trust recommended it needed to be done before too long during a state safety inspection anyway. Changing that actually made the vibration come back (but the alignment is now off, so hopefully it's just that).

I don't think it's the "death wobble", but it's certainly noticeable. I now want to replace the ball joints (U/L both sides - spicer probably). But what other steering/suspension components should I consider replacing? Everything as far as gaskets seem pretty wore out/dry.

Thanks!

salad

It really sounds as though that wire is done for. It should not be getting warm. I would just replace it outright, corrosion will wick up the wire and cause high resistance. An inch or two can get it if it's mild, but again, the heat is a sign of very high resistance.

Track bar is a good step. Next most common culprit - and a fair bit easier (or cheaper if you're having someone else do the work) is all of the steering linkage. Tie rod, tie rod ends, and drag link.

That said - can you describe the problem a little more? There are a lot of issues that can strike the front end, poor balance shows up in interesting ways.

(If you had death wobble, you'd know it... )

Cane

I get a humming noise on decelerations, when I get around 30-40mph. I can't seem to pin point it, but from my guess it's in the rear

From doing some research it looks like it might be a pinion bearing, but when I go under and try to find a play in the yoke, there is none. I tried both with tires in the air and on the ground and found a little play (1mm at most) in the rear u-joint.

Then I checked the front and it seems to be the same (except no play in the u-joint), but when I got to the transfer case, it seems the double cardan joint there has a bit more play in it (or is there a bearing in the tc that can go bad?).

Anyway, I'm simply wondering if :

1) u-joints can cause this kind of vibration on deceleration
2) can pinion bearings start going bad and show no play at the yoke?
3) if it's more likely a pinion bearing going bad, is it best to just swap the whole axle or doing a full diff maintenance at the shop end up the same? I have the 8.25, not sure about the splines (late 96, could be either 27 or 29)
4) is there anything else I should check? wheel bearings seem fine, there is some play in the c-clip but from what I heard that's normal

thanks!

JeepDVL45

Quick question for any fellow New Yorkers out there....

Do I need to have covers on auxiliary lights for my jeep while I'm ON road?

I've searched the NY DMV website for the past couple days and haven't been able to find an answer (maybe I'm slow) I'm looking for the actual LAW, not a "no one really enforces it, so unless the cop is a **** you should be fine" type of answer.

Since Cuomo is making anything FUN illegal, I'm thinking that I probably need them, but I don't want to waste my $ if I don't.

Thanks

sycoglitch

Any lights above stock height location need to have covers. Whether cops enforce or not is a different story. There's also a good website about lift laws for state to state.

JeepDVL45

Thanks! I'll keep them on the front bumper then, makes my life a little easier.

I just stumbled across the NY Lift Laws site.

SteveMongr

Could be directly attributed to blasting through salt water on the beach. (avatar)

kgm

If you have ANY play in your u joints, they are bad. They are supposed to be tight when manualling inspecting them. That will definitely give a hum because they are battering around in there as the speeds go down. Mine did this until it started clunking, then I replaced it and there were no more needle bearings left in it!!

Bugout4x4

Why haven't they started making automatic covers for these yet? all it would take is a hinged cover and a small solenoid that activates when the juice is applied.

Cane

Alright cheers, I might end up doing that first and see if it solves my problem. Would definately prefer that to a pinion bearing.

SteveMongr

I considered doing this with a light bar mounted inside bumper. Using cut-out as the cover. Just have too many more important things to do.

SteveMongr

An infra-red temperature gun is effective at helping diagnose a bad bearing. They create excessive heat.