Fubar92627

So I have an oil leak that is getting progressively worse. I just purchased a 91 Cherokee Laredo and I noticed the leak at the valve cover gasket. I replaced that. and it is still getting worse.

Recently I noticed that the oil pressure gauge was malfunctioning. Could it be that the hose, or something related to the oil pressure sensor could be leaking? Also, don't think it is the oil pan because the majority of the oil is not dripping off of the oil pan. It is coming off something behind it.

cherokee104

Worth a shot but anybody have 15x8 weld super single wheels there selling or willing to sell

NewKindOfClown

Wrong section, bud. And probably not

NewKindOfClown

Oil pressure sending unit, and almost definitely the Oil Filter Adapter elbow

cruiser54

Here's what Clown does:






I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

salad

ThatPurpleXJ

Swapping a 94 long block in my 98. Power steering pump bracket and water pump from a 98 and a 99+ intake. Why aren't my power steering bolts not lining up? Bracket isn't bent, intake is flush, cant imagine my new water pump was machines wrong either. I know the PS brackets changed throughout years but as far as I'm concerned the mounting should be the same

XJwonders

is the intake manifold fully seated on the head?

ThatPurpleXJ

Yeah the two Dowels are lined up and it's sitting flush

salad

I'm 90% sure you need the power steering bracket from the 99+. Changed with the intake.

XJwonders

nah. U need 96+ PS bracket.

ThatPurpleXJ

Yeah I've had the intake for 3 years. Had it on the original engine then replaced with a 96 engine, still worked and now it doesn't on a 94 engine. The bracket is the same one I've used too.

LazyRPeople2

So, I want to replace the front shocks on my 2000 XJ Sport which has the Up Country suspension package. Is it just the springs that give the 1" lift? Or do I have to be mindful when buying replacement shocks? Thanks!

NewKindOfClown

The springs are what give it the 1" of lift, but you will need 1" longer-than-normal shocks to match your suspension.

rcguymike

Does anyone else have KOR's radiator support and think that the tow points should be for 5/8" shackles and have more clearance to the actual radiator? If a pull got sideways at all it would drag the shackle into the corner of the radiator. Should I be super concerned? There's what looks to be a metal corner guard is there room to remove that and have clearance or should I just be super careful if using the tow points? Plan to get steel bumpers with recovery points eventually but who knows how far off that is?