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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:50 PM
  #52606  
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I don't really know how to phrase this, but how "effective" is the stock e-brake supposed to be?

I replaced the rear drum brakes a couple weekends ago, adjusted them properly and when applying brake with the pedal, I noticed a big difference from the old rusty and worn ones, which is good.

But I gave the e-brake a try and apart from the handle being more stiff (doesn't have to go all the way to the top, about halfway there I can't go higher), it doesn't lock the back wheels but slows the jeep pretty slowly. is this how it's supposed to be, or there's also adjustements to do on the e-brake?

cheers

Last edited by Cane; 01-11-2016 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:44 PM
  #52607  
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That's pretty normal. It brakes with as much pressure you can put on it.

For comparison, disconnect and plug the hoses for the front brakes and remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster. Then try the pedal.

(don't do that, great way to die)
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
For comparison, disconnect and plug the hoses for the front brakes and remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster. Then try the pedal.

(don't do that, great way to die)
Thanks a lot, salad! Like you couldn't have put the little disclaimer at the TOP of your post instead of the bottom?!

Need to make a post now about how to remove my steering wheel from my ***. Lol
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:49 PM
  #52609  
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Originally Posted by salad
That's pretty normal. It brakes with as much pressure you can put on it.

For comparison, disconnect and plug the hoses for the front brakes and remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster. Then try the pedal.

(don't do that, great way to die)
alright thanks, I'll make sure to do that after replacing my muffler bearings
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:13 PM
  #52610  
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man

Thanks a lot, salad! Like you couldn't have put the little disclaimer at the TOP of your post instead of the bottom?!

Need to make a post now about how to remove my steering wheel from my ***. Lol
Well use that can of Troll Spray then. Lol

Originally Posted by Cane

alright thanks, I'll make sure to do that after replacing my muffler bearings
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:29 AM
  #52611  
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Originally Posted by salad
Is the sheet metal underneath tweaked? Or the hinge?
It's the hinge. Kinda like its sunk in if that makes sense
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:06 PM
  #52612  
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I've heard that spicer ball joints are the best to get. What about Moog ball joints? Should I stick with getting Spicer?
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:09 PM
  #52613  
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Originally Posted by Deon.I
It's the hinge. Kinda like its sunk in if that makes sense
got pics? Sounds like the hinge is sunk into the sheet metal. I would cut the hinge off, pull the dent out or cut and weld a new peice of sheet metal in, then weld the hinge back on.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:13 PM
  #52614  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
I've heard that spicer ball joints are the best to get. What about Moog ball joints? Should I stick with getting Spicer?
I've had several professional mechanics tell me that Moog ball joints & TREs (also a type of ball joint) have gone downhill lately.

Spicers, however, last 10-15 years usually.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:14 PM
  #52615  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
got pics? Sounds like the hinge is sunk into the sheet metal. I would cut the hinge off, pull the dent out or cut and weld a new peice of sheet metal in, then weld the hinge back on.
Yeah. The hinge itself is pretty solid, but behind it is 19 gauge sheet steel.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:13 PM
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Default 93 Cherokee exhaust manifold swap

Based on second hand info I ordered online a manifold for a newer model that has the "bellows" in the #1 and #6 cyl pipes for my 93 4.0L ho. I would really like to hear from someone that has actually put the later model manifold on an older engine before I try to tear it apart. I am disabled and it is going to be about all I can handle so I want to get it done the first time.
Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:19 PM
  #52617  
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Originally Posted by swarfrat
Based on second hand info I ordered online a manifold for a newer model that has the "bellows" in the #1 and #6 cyl pipes for my 93 4.0L ho. I would really like to hear from someone that has actually put the later model manifold on an older engine before I try to tear it apart. I am disabled and it is going to be about all I can handle so I want to get it done the first time.
Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks.
I've got this on my 1999. The intake manifolds aren't identical after '98, but it's the same part. (1999 requires more clearance.)


Give this thread a peek: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/je...91-98-a-80445/

There are also a few how-to videos on YouTube
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:43 PM
  #52618  
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That gives me a little hope, many thanks. I had a mechanic say that he would do the work for me but then he disappeared. I really don't want to get into it then find out I can't make it work.
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:52 AM
  #52619  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
I've heard that spicer ball joints are the best to get. What about Moog ball joints? Should I stick with getting Spicer?
I bought moog ball joints they lasted a year :/ Ive bin running synergy mfg balljoints. Really good so far, on year two.
Just another option for you.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:58 PM
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Anyone have good suggestions for snow chains for a 31x10.5x15 tire. Tire is a grabber at2.
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