Basslicks

Hey man, that seems to be a decent find. But I do spy rust at the bottom of the door sills, along the bottom of the hatch, the hatch catch, and on some of the components under the hood. Maybe some of the other rust belt guys can give a little more insight on value, but me personally, I think $2,000 is a little pricey for a stock Jeep with 216k on the clock and rust - albeit possibly minimal. That is a bit of a larger concern with XJs versus body-on-frame SUVs. Shock bolts are known for shearing off when attempting to remove, suspension bolts in general like to seize up, floors and "framerails" become very soft and can crack with suspension articulation. Just do yourself a favor and crawl under the jeep and take a good look around at just how much rust you're looking at.

As far as the mileage you can get out of an AW4, infinite depending on how they're taken care of. If they're abused, submerged frequently with leaky seals, improper fluid added, constantly towing loads nearing or exceeding capacity, stop and go driving, etc. etc. - you may be looking at rebuilding it soon. However, if it was maintained well, driven "kindly", not leaking like a sieve, and generally just NOT abused - it may end up outlasting your ownership of the vehicle. The AW4 is by no means a fragile transmission and is built very well - see this thread for TONS more info on that http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

As far as the ZJ stuff, the tie rod is an upgrade, the drag link is the same. You can swap the swaybar with some modification to the end links, but afaik you don't really gain a whole lot from the swap. I've been running the stock swaybar on mine since I've owned it... now have 3.5" lift on 32" tires and the jeep is plenty stable in turns. I have added extended swaybar links with disconnects (courtesy Dukie564).

Brake booster... meh.

rcguymike

Yeah this is the main reason I'm looking to replace my ZJ, maybe permanently maybe temporarily, still deciding whether or not I should put the time and metal in to fixing the frame rails.

Thanks! Was planning on offering a bit less depending what I see in person and how it drives. This might just be a temp car for a couple months/years or I might decide to build it up...I'm still partial to the ZJ's. Thinking long arm, enough to fit 33-35's and some armor and having a nice family rig that may or may not do some towing eventually. Also, do XJ's come stock with a tranny cooler or only with tow packages?

Basslicks

Only with the tow package.

BlvdKreeper

Would re-gearing be next if I'm running 31x10.5x15 tires?

XJwonders

that depend on what trans you have. If it's an automatic then it hardly would make any difference/not worth it re-gearing just for 31's.

If it's a manual then u can easily swap in a set of axles from an automatic XJ.

I ran a set of 3.55 axles from an auto XJ in my 5 speed XJ, on 31" tires and it was awesome.

HunterGatherer00

Is there a difference between the tow package from the factory and a tow package from the dealer? I've got the "mopar" hitch setup and trans cooler but my gears are 3.55's and from what I've read (could be wrong) but the tow package says 3.73's. Just curious

rcguymike

OK I think I'm in love...it's the cleanest vehicle I've seen since my 2013(wife's)... One problem though, the belt squeals pretty badly, but only when on the throttle. Might be the tension? By the time we got back the voltage monitor dropped to 9v and stayed there and a check gauges light came on, but the belt stops squealing and no CEL. It squealed once more when revved and didn't squeal anymore with subsequent revs. Voltage gauge still showed 9 volts. Maybe bad gauge? There is only surface rust anywhere everything is rock solid on frame rails, still showed red paint in a lot of areas underneath and the PO was very good to it it seems. Fuel sending unit replaced(heard those aren't fun), and some minor clunking maybe sway bar links or shocks. Drives great at all speeds even up to 55. VIN 1J4FF68S6XL668647 shows 3.55 gears, and the best part it has a 242 that shifts very smoothly! Thinking I might bring it to the dealer to check out the squealing(they checked my last Jeep for free). Ran and shifted smooth and kicked down right away if I gave it gas. Coolant reservoir was low but the fluid was green. Head gasket looked like it might be leaking a bit and he said it goes through a very small amount a of oil. Checking underneath I didn't see much. Think once I have it checked out $1500 is too low of an offer?

XJwonders

3.55 have been standard in Cherokees with automatics ever since 1991. Not sure about prior years. So if you have a towing package from the dealer that's newer than 1991, it's still 3.55

HunterGatherer00

Thankyou, don't know where I read it but I remember reading that the tow package sometimes has the 3.73's, not sure on the source so I can't tell you if it was factual or not. But thank you for the reply

NewKindOfClown

Like he suggested, that's true of the older models. After 1990, things were standardized more and more through the model years.

HunterGatherer00

Well then looks like some new gears fir this guy!

93XJeeper

So, I basically replaced/ fixed all steering components including a remanufactured steering gear box. But I still have play in the steering and it's all in the steering box, I can turn the steering column bar a little and the pitman arm doesn't move, I adjusted the bolt on top of the steering box and it helped a lot but there is still some play in the box. Should I keep adjusting it till there is no play in the steering, I don't wanna blow up this new box. I got it about 5-6 months ago and I'm guessing it loosened up after being broken in or something. Are these jeep steering boxes suppose to just naturally be kind of loose like that or do I just need to further adjust it tighter? Thanks.

SteveMongr

Careful with the steering box adjuster, it is not designed to be adjusted by a layperson, nor while still in vehicle.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ste...42/#post815900
http://freeasestudyguides.com/steeri...djustment.html

93XJeeper

well dang, I adjusted it 3 times at about 1/8 of a turn a time yesterday and have been driving it all day today. Thou, the steering feels tighter, did I ruin my box? Should I readjust it back to where it was in the first place or just be careful from here on out?

SteveMongr

^ Judging by the amount of people that have adjusted it, and not hearing of anyone with a catastrophic failure from doing so, you are likely ok.
I have researched the issue and get mixed feedback. But anyone that specializes in steering boxes has warned against it.