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XJ Ask the Question Thread
No, I don't lick fish.
Actually have a question about a Cherokee...lol Thoughts: https://up.craigslist.org/cto/5415853384.html ?
Yeah 216k is a lot of miles, how many can you get out of an AW4 and is it pricey to have them rebuilt? Not even the rockers look rusted to me. Only thing I don't like is the silly hitch but it might just be a temporary vehicle.
Edit: also I have a v8 ZJ I know the tie rods and drag link are good things to swap(if I decide to make this my keeper), what else can swap?
Edit: Edit:
1. ZJ gas tank skid
2. ZJ Alternator
3. Brake booster
4. Sway bar, does this really help much?
Can the exchange happen the other direction as well so that the ZJ is still driveable to the junkyard?(If I go that route...) Although I guess I could rent a dolly and tow it with the XJ...One of the junkyards is only a few miles from my house...if they'll even give me anything for it...
Yeah 216k is a lot of miles, how many can you get out of an AW4 and is it pricey to have them rebuilt? Not even the rockers look rusted to me. Only thing I don't like is the silly hitch but it might just be a temporary vehicle.
Edit: also I have a v8 ZJ I know the tie rods and drag link are good things to swap(if I decide to make this my keeper), what else can swap?
Edit: Edit:
1. ZJ gas tank skid
2. ZJ Alternator
3. Brake booster
4. Sway bar, does this really help much?
Can the exchange happen the other direction as well so that the ZJ is still driveable to the junkyard?(If I go that route...) Although I guess I could rent a dolly and tow it with the XJ...One of the junkyards is only a few miles from my house...if they'll even give me anything for it...
As far as the mileage you can get out of an AW4, infinite depending on how they're taken care of. If they're abused, submerged frequently with leaky seals, improper fluid added, constantly towing loads nearing or exceeding capacity, stop and go driving, etc. etc. - you may be looking at rebuilding it soon. However, if it was maintained well, driven "kindly", not leaking like a sieve, and generally just NOT abused - it may end up outlasting your ownership of the vehicle. The AW4 is by no means a fragile transmission and is built very well - see this thread for TONS more info on that http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970
As far as the ZJ stuff, the tie rod is an upgrade, the drag link is the same. You can swap the swaybar with some modification to the end links, but afaik you don't really gain a whole lot from the swap. I've been running the stock swaybar on mine since I've owned it... now have 3.5" lift on 32" tires and the jeep is plenty stable in turns. I have added extended swaybar links with disconnects (courtesy Dukie564).
Brake booster... meh.
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Maybe some of the other rust belt guys can give a little more insight on value, but me personally, I think $2,000 is a little pricey for a stock Jeep with 216k on the clock and rust - albeit possibly minimal. Just do yourself a favor and crawl under the jeep and take a good look around at just how much rust you're looking at.
As far as the mileage you can get out of an AW4, infinite depending on how they're taken care of. If they're abused, submerged frequently with leaky seals, improper fluid added, constantly towing loads nearing or exceeding capacity, stop and go driving, etc. etc. - you may be looking at rebuilding it soon. However, if it was maintained well, driven "kindly", not leaking like a sieve, and generally just NOT abused - it may end up outlasting your ownership of the vehicle. The AW4 is by no means a fragile transmission and is built very well - see this thread for TONS more info on that http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970
No, I don't lick fish.
Thanks! Was planning on offering a bit less depending what I see in person and how it drives. This might just be a temp car for a couple months/years or I might decide to build it up...I'm still partial to the ZJ's. Thinking long arm, enough to fit 33-35's and some armor and having a nice family rig that may or may not do some towing eventually. Also, do XJ's come stock with a tranny cooler or only with tow packages?
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
that depend on what trans you have. If it's an automatic then it hardly would make any difference/not worth it re-gearing just for 31's.
If it's a manual then u can easily swap in a set of axles from an automatic XJ.
I ran a set of 3.55 axles from an auto XJ in my 5 speed XJ, on 31" tires and it was awesome.
If it's a manual then u can easily swap in a set of axles from an automatic XJ.
I ran a set of 3.55 axles from an auto XJ in my 5 speed XJ, on 31" tires and it was awesome.
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: AZ
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Year: 00'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 w/ 784 swap/ new connector tails
Is there a difference between the tow package from the factory and a tow package from the dealer? I've got the "mopar" hitch setup and trans cooler but my gears are 3.55's and from what I've read (could be wrong) but the tow package says 3.73's. Just curious
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OK I think I'm in love...it's the cleanest vehicle I've seen since my 2013(wife's)... One problem though, the belt squeals pretty badly, but only when on the throttle. Might be the tension? By the time we got back the voltage monitor dropped to 9v and stayed there and a check gauges light came on, but the belt stops squealing and no CEL. It squealed once more when revved and didn't squeal anymore with subsequent revs. Voltage gauge still showed 9 volts. Maybe bad gauge? There is only surface rust anywhere everything is rock solid on frame rails, still showed red paint in a lot of areas underneath and the PO was very good to it it seems. Fuel sending unit replaced(heard those aren't fun), and some minor clunking maybe sway bar links or shocks. Drives great at all speeds even up to 55. VIN 1J4FF68S6XL668647 shows 3.55 gears, and the best part it has a 242 that shifts very smoothly! Thinking I might bring it to the dealer to check out the squealing(they checked my last Jeep for free). Ran and shifted smooth and kicked down right away if I gave it gas. Coolant reservoir was low but the fluid was green. Head gasket looked like it might be leaking a bit and he said it goes through a very small amount a of oil. Checking underneath I didn't see much. Think once I have it checked out $1500 is too low of an offer?
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
3.55 have been standard in Cherokees with automatics ever since 1991. Not sure about prior years. So if you have a towing package from the dealer that's newer than 1991, it's still 3.55
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Year: 00'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 w/ 784 swap/ new connector tails
Thankyou, don't know where I read it but I remember reading that the tow package sometimes has the 3.73's, not sure on the source so I can't tell you if it was factual or not. But thank you for the reply
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Like he suggested, that's true of the older models. After 1990, things were standardized more and more through the model years.
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Year: 00'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 w/ 784 swap/ new connector tails
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So, I basically replaced/ fixed all steering components including a remanufactured steering gear box. But I still have play in the steering and it's all in the steering box, I can turn the steering column bar a little and the pitman arm doesn't move, I adjusted the bolt on top of the steering box and it helped a lot but there is still some play in the box. Should I keep adjusting it till there is no play in the steering, I don't wanna blow up this new box. I got it about 5-6 months ago and I'm guessing it loosened up after being broken in or something. Are these jeep steering boxes suppose to just naturally be kind of loose like that or do I just need to further adjust it tighter? Thanks.
Beach Bum
So, I basically replaced/ fixed all steering components including a remanufactured steering gear box. But I still have play in the steering and it's all in the steering box, I can turn the steering column bar a little and the pitman arm doesn't move, I adjusted the bolt on top of the steering box and it helped a lot but there is still some play in the box. Should I keep adjusting it till there is no play in the steering, I don't wanna blow up this new box. I got it about 5-6 months ago and I'm guessing it loosened up after being broken in or something. Are these jeep steering boxes suppose to just naturally be kind of loose like that or do I just need to further adjust it tighter? Thanks.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ste...42/#post815900
http://freeasestudyguides.com/steeri...djustment.html
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Careful with the steering box adjuster, it is not designed to be adjusted by a layperson, nor while still in vehicle. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ste...42/#post815900 http://freeasestudyguides.com/steeri...djustment.html
Beach Bum
Steering Box
^ Judging by the amount of people that have adjusted it, and not hearing of anyone with a catastrophic failure from doing so, you are likely ok.
I have researched the issue and get mixed feedback. But anyone that specializes in steering boxes has warned against it.
I have researched the issue and get mixed feedback. But anyone that specializes in steering boxes has warned against it.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 01-29-2016 at 01:21 PM. Reason: added info.