09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
02-05-2016, 08:54 PM
Senior Member
How do I remove the roof rack crossbars on my '99 XJ? I see there are buttons for adjusting their position but don't see how to take them off completely.
We're supposed to have another snowstorm on the way for Monday and Tuesday and it would be a heck of a lot easier to clear snow off the roof without these in the way.
We're supposed to have another snowstorm on the way for Monday and Tuesday and it would be a heck of a lot easier to clear snow off the roof without these in the way.
02-05-2016, 09:00 PM
CF Veteran
How do I remove the roof rack crossbars on my '99 XJ? I see there are buttons for adjusting their position but don't see how to take them off completely.
We're supposed to have another snowstorm on the way for Monday and Tuesday and it would be a heck of a lot easier to clear snow off the roof without these in the way.
We're supposed to have another snowstorm on the way for Monday and Tuesday and it would be a heck of a lot easier to clear snow off the roof without these in the way.
02-05-2016, 09:13 PM
Senior Member
02-05-2016, 11:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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Model: Cherokee
1998 cherokee sport
Hey guys and girls I'm new here and not sure what I'm doing. I just bought my first xj first jeep anyway and I'm super pumped. I've been trying to get some info about the window problems. And what I noticed tonight was the lights on the switches stay on all the time even with keys out and doors shut. I'm worried about killing my battery first and figure out what's wrong with the Windows later. Any help is appriciated. Can I pull a fuse to the switches without loosing anything else? I'm not going to be driving it til I get manifold and neutral safety switch fixed. Is the nss part of the problem? Let me know if you can
02-06-2016, 02:24 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Snohomish County, WA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
still trying to track down a vibration on deceleration. I've asked about transfer case bearings and I'm set on rebuilding the TC, (got a slight lateral play at the yoke) but by looking around I also noticed about 1mm of play on my front driveshaft. is some play expected or it should be completely solid (I'm guessing the latter..)
here :
Driveshaft - YouTube
here :
Driveshaft - YouTube
-----------------------------------------------
This video is private.
Sorry about that.
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It seems your video is set to "private" and un-viewable.
Don't expect too many responses with that.
Maybe settings can be changed? GL
Last edited by RacerX; 02-06-2016 at 02:26 AM.
02-06-2016, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland, OR
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
02-06-2016, 02:52 PM
No, I don't lick fish.
How do I remove the roof rack crossbars on my '99 XJ? I see there are buttons for adjusting their position but don't see how to take them off completely.
We're supposed to have another snowstorm on the way for Monday and Tuesday and it would be a heck of a lot easier to clear snow off the roof without these in the way.
We're supposed to have another snowstorm on the way for Monday and Tuesday and it would be a heck of a lot easier to clear snow off the roof without these in the way.
I had better luck just grabbing the the end"cap" with a set of pliers - and giving it a good pull. It will basically rip the caps off, but you'll be able to put them off and back on by simply sliding them in and out. They fit in there pretty snugly so you don't have to worry about them coming out on their own either. I've had mine this way for about 3 years and I haven't had the first one fall out on it's own - that's even with the bass from a subwoofer vibrating the roof.
Works for the front and the rear.
EDIT: After posting this, I see you have a 99. Not sure if the caps are the same, but if yours look like this then it should work:
Last edited by Basslicks; 02-06-2016 at 03:19 PM. Reason: derp
02-06-2016, 07:49 PM
Senior Member
I wouldn't bother but those bars really make it a lot more difficult to brush a foot of snow off the roof.
02-06-2016, 08:06 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just picked up a new tranny for $100. The guy said it came out of a 95 and mines a 93. From what I read online this is a straight swap, plug n play. But I want to make sure. Are these the right connectors for a 93?
02-07-2016, 06:25 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
I haven't had time yet to try, but that's the kind of thing I'm afraid of. This XJ has spent its 17-year life here in the rust belt so I would not be surprised if the bolts are 'reluctant' to come loose. Not sure if the roof rack end caps are the same as on your '92 but the idea of just pulling the end caps off sounds like a possible alternative.
I wouldn't bother but those bars really make it a lot more difficult to brush a foot of snow off the roof.
I wouldn't bother but those bars really make it a lot more difficult to brush a foot of snow off the roof.
Have you read this? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970
If you have a 1990.5-1996 XJ:
-1987-1990 AW4s are bolt-in... as long as you also swap the input gears in your transfer case, or the whole transfer case. Remember that the NP231 input gear cuts changed in 94 or 95 and that the rear output of the transfer case changed from 95 to 96 when selecting a donor. I would NOT suggest this swap unless in dire straits (need to get off the trail, need to get to work tomorrow or be fired, etc) as you are limiting yourself to a rapidly disappearing selection of 21 spline spare parts in the boneyards.
-1990.5-1996 AW4s are bolt-in.
-1997 AW4s are bolt-in, except you have to cut and splice the wiring harness connector. Again, 5 butt-splice crimp terminals and a few minutes and this is done. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see this bullet under the 87-90 section, above.)
-1998-2001 AW4s require more work. All the transfer case input gear info from 1990.5-1997 applies, on top of that, the sensors have changed! You can either build the circuit given here by lawsoncl or swap the transmission tailhousing, sensor drive rotor, and output speed sensor as shown here by Frank Z to make this work. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see above.)
02-07-2016, 12:32 PM
CF Veteran
It struggles and then fires up. I think giving it a bit of accelerator pedal helps. PO replaced the fuel sending unit. I replaced the serpentine belt yesterday and no change other than no obnoxious squealing anymore.
02-07-2016, 12:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
lol.. or just leave that few inches left for insulation I can't tell you for sure 'cause I haven't had mine out yet, but it's not hard to splice the correct connectors in.... Have you read this? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970 If you have a 1990.5-1996 XJ: -1987-1990 AW4s are bolt-in... as long as you also swap the input gears in your transfer case, or the whole transfer case. Remember that the NP231 input gear cuts changed in 94 or 95 and that the rear output of the transfer case changed from 95 to 96 when selecting a donor. I would NOT suggest this swap unless in dire straits (need to get off the trail, need to get to work tomorrow or be fired, etc) as you are limiting yourself to a rapidly disappearing selection of 21 spline spare parts in the boneyards. -1990.5-1996 AW4s are bolt-in. -1997 AW4s are bolt-in, except you have to cut and splice the wiring harness connector. Again, 5 butt-splice crimp terminals and a few minutes and this is done. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see this bullet under the 87-90 section, above.) -1998-2001 AW4s require more work. All the transfer case input gear info from 1990.5-1997 applies, on top of that, the sensors have changed! You can either build the circuit given here by lawsoncl or swap the transmission tailhousing, sensor drive rotor, and output speed sensor as shown here by Frank Z to make this work. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see above.)
I can't tell you for sure 'cause I haven't had mine out yet, but it's not hard to splice the correct connectors in.... Have you read this? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970 If you have a 1990.5-1996 XJ: -1987-1990 AW4s are bolt-in... as long as you also swap the input gears in your transfer case, or the whole transfer case. Remember that the NP231 input gear cuts changed in 94 or 95 and that the rear output of the transfer case changed from 95 to 96 when selecting a donor. I would NOT suggest this swap unless in dire straits (need to get off the trail, need to get to work tomorrow or be fired, etc) as you are limiting yourself to a rapidly disappearing selection of 21 spline spare parts in the boneyards. -1990.5-1996 AW4s are bolt-in. -1997 AW4s are bolt-in, except you have to cut and splice the wiring harness connector. Again, 5 butt-splice crimp terminals and a few minutes and this is done. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see this bullet under the 87-90 section, above.) -1998-2001 AW4s require more work. All the transfer case input gear info from 1990.5-1997 applies, on top of that, the sensors have changed! You can either build the circuit given here by lawsoncl or swap the transmission tailhousing, sensor drive rotor, and output speed sensor as shown here by Frank Z to make this work. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see above.)
02-07-2016, 12:53 PM
No, I don't lick fish.
Worse comes to worst, you can always just head to the junk yard (pay your dollar to get it) and crawl around under some '93s.
02-07-2016, 02:09 PM
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Model: Cherokee
Bad ecu?
Hi I am trying to diagnose a 1997 Cherokee that cranks and cranks but won't start. I do not have a spark even coming straight out of the ignition coil, which I have also replaced. I know what you're thinking… Bad crankshaft position sensor, right? Well I've already replaced that and what a pain in the ***. I get a good 5v reference line at all of the sensors but only 9 V going into the ignition coil. Shouldn't it be higher? That, combined with the fuel pump running constantly, makes me think bad ECU. Thoughts?