09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
04-11-2016, 09:26 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
04-11-2016, 09:28 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
04-11-2016, 09:28 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
04-11-2016, 09:31 PM
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Year: 1993
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04-11-2016, 09:34 PM
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Year: 1990
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04-11-2016, 09:47 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 High Output
04-11-2016, 09:51 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, 60mm TB, 784's
these are the basic parts to the a/c system on any vehicle.
Compressor
Condenser
Hoses
Accumulator
Evaporator
Before you go about just removing the parts, please get the system recovered(vacuumed/drained) it's harmful not only to you(to breath in) but the EPA doesn't take kindly to Freon being discharged into the air. I have been in the HVAC area of work in both automotive and commercial transportation for almost 10yrs, and freon is not a chemical that you want to breath in, it will make you pass out if exposed too long, been there done that.
Compressor
Condenser
Hoses
Accumulator
Evaporator
Before you go about just removing the parts, please get the system recovered(vacuumed/drained) it's harmful not only to you(to breath in) but the EPA doesn't take kindly to Freon being discharged into the air. I have been in the HVAC area of work in both automotive and commercial transportation for almost 10yrs, and freon is not a chemical that you want to breath in, it will make you pass out if exposed too long, been there done that.
04-11-2016, 09:55 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No real write-up. Drain oil. Use wix filter. Put 5 quarts of Rotella T3 in with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Monitor the sludge dissolving through the oil filler hole.
04-12-2016, 09:16 AM
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Been thinking of adding MMO on my next change @~215,000miles. I think I might have one or more occasionally sticky lifters. The PO only drove it in winter(probably short commutes too). And it was pretty clickety-klackety even over the cherry bomb muffler I just got rid of. I changed the oil as soon as I got it and now that I've been driving it every day it has seemed to quiet down quite a bit. Sometimes it's clicky and even has a light clunky sound while idling/low RPMS and sometimes I can't hear anything clicky or clunky at all. What are the differences between T3, T triple protection, T5 and T6 and if doing 3-5k mile changes is it really worth it. I've read it might be better to switch to a heavier oil during summer(10W-40?) and back to thinner oil winter(5W-30?) (February can have week long stretches of -40F being the high). Is the synthetic/more expensive oils worth it with frequent changes and MMO?
04-12-2016, 09:17 AM
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Year: 1994
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04-12-2016, 09:36 AM
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So here's the problem. I'm installing a lift and the driver side leaf spring front eye bolt was horrifyingly siezed. A bloody nose, 3 stitches, and a smashed finger later, my buddy and I finally got it cut out. Now the threads in the nut are stripped to hell. I have done my research and know that I have to cut out the nut, install a new bolt and nut, then tack weld the new nut to the inside of the frame. My question is how you go about cutting the old nut. My thought is to just drill a hole in the floor bug enough to fit a monster chisel and try to crack off the tacks. Does anyone else have a better idea or maybe experience with this same issue?
04-12-2016, 09:42 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
So here's the problem. I'm installing a lift and the driver side leaf spring front eye bolt was horrifyingly siezed. A bloody nose, 3 stitches, and a smashed finger later, my buddy and I finally got it cut out. Now the threads in the nut are stripped to hell. I have done my research and know that I have to cut out the nut, install a new bolt and nut, then tack weld the new nut to the inside of the frame. My question is how you go about cutting the old nut. My thought is to just drill a hole in the floor bug enough to fit a monster chisel and try to crack off the tacks. Does anyone else have a better idea or maybe experience with this same issue?
04-12-2016, 09:47 AM
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Model: Cherokee
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear cargo window
I just got a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and the very back cargo window is broken. The problem is, it's sealed with glue. I have no clue how to get it out or how to put one in. We called a local shop and they said it would cost $330. But I found a guy that has a window but he said I have to get it out. How do I get my window out? How do I glue another one in?
04-12-2016, 09:48 AM
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The nut is still welded, but the threads are shot. I honestly wish the tacks had just broken haha. My issue is it needs a new nut, but the old one is still welded in place
04-12-2016, 09:51 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Right. Sorry, my mistake. That's an issue I haven't run into, but are you sure the threads are shot? Can't straighten them out with a tap?