09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
04-18-2016, 05:45 PM
Moderator CF K9-unit
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
What plugs did you use?
Last edited by Dumajones; 04-18-2016 at 06:15 PM.
04-18-2016, 05:54 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Quebec
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
while upgrading to the v8 tie rod, should the drag link be replaced too or they usually last the life of the vehicle? I have a loose TRE at the tie rod itself, but the drag link and stabilizer (both stock) seem fine.
because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says).
I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.
because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says).
I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.
04-18-2016, 06:40 PM
Moderator CF K9-unit
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Here is a pic of where they are.
AS for how to replace them,,, look on you tube.https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...oxygen+sensors
Last edited by Dumajones; 04-18-2016 at 06:43 PM.
04-18-2016, 07:45 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Any one know where i can get some nice polyurathane motor mounts for a 93 zj i6 4.0? I went n checked out 4wheelparts but they only have the mount for the xj the zj's have a bend on the base /:
04-18-2016, 08:00 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Capac, Mi
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
04-18-2016, 10:03 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5,920
Likes: 0
Received 190 Likes
on
165 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
while upgrading to the v8 tie rod, should the drag link be replaced too or they usually last the life of the vehicle? I have a loose TRE at the tie rod itself, but the drag link and stabilizer (both stock) seem fine. because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says). I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.
04-18-2016, 10:14 PM
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Been thinking of adding MMO on my next change @~215,000miles. I think I might have one or more occasionally sticky lifters. The PO only drove it in winter(probably short commutes too). And it was pretty clickety-klackety even over the cherry bomb muffler I just got rid of. I changed the oil as soon as I got it and now that I've been driving it every day it has seemed to quiet down quite a bit. Sometimes it's clicky and even has a light clunky sound while idling/low RPMS and sometimes I can't hear anything clicky or clunky at all. What are the differences between T3, T triple protection, T5 and T6 and if doing 3-5k mile changes is it really worth it. I've read it might be better to switch to a heavier oil during summer(10W-40?) and back to thinner oil winter(5W-30?) (February can have week long stretches of -40F being the high). Is the synthetic/more expensive oils worth it with frequent changes and MMO?
04-18-2016, 10:22 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
04-18-2016, 10:38 PM
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I haven't shared my "big cup times 10" experience.
Just because everybody was whiney about water in the intake, I ran 10 consecutive cups of water (the big suckers) through my 87 MJ. One right after another. Never hydro-locked or anything.
04-18-2016, 11:30 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
04-19-2016, 12:52 AM
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Gilroy, CA
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Transmission problem.
Hello all, I'm totally new to this Forum so please forgive me if I sound a little too new. Anyway I'll get straight to it.
My check engine light came on 2 days ago and have had it scanned. Codes that came up were P0740 & P1757-mainly to do with the transmission. My Jeep has just tipped over to 200,000 miles. I'm clueless as to what i should do from this point. Get a rebuild or re-manufactured transmission or even a flush and re-fill? And what price range should I expect for this type of job?
Many thanks.
My check engine light came on 2 days ago and have had it scanned. Codes that came up were P0740 & P1757-mainly to do with the transmission. My Jeep has just tipped over to 200,000 miles. I'm clueless as to what i should do from this point. Get a rebuild or re-manufactured transmission or even a flush and re-fill? And what price range should I expect for this type of job?
Many thanks.
04-19-2016, 08:07 AM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Capac, Mi
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
04-19-2016, 08:10 AM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Capac, Mi
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hello all, I'm totally new to this Forum so please forgive me if I sound a little too new. Anyway I'll get straight to it.
My check engine light came on 2 days ago and have had it scanned. Codes that came up were P0740 & P1757-mainly to do with the transmission. My Jeep has just tipped over to 200,000 miles. I'm clueless as to what i should do from this point. Get a rebuild or re-manufactured transmission or even a flush and re-fill? And what price range should I expect for this type of job?
Many thanks.
My check engine light came on 2 days ago and have had it scanned. Codes that came up were P0740 & P1757-mainly to do with the transmission. My Jeep has just tipped over to 200,000 miles. I'm clueless as to what i should do from this point. Get a rebuild or re-manufactured transmission or even a flush and re-fill? And what price range should I expect for this type of job?
Many thanks.
04-19-2016, 06:43 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Hampton Roads
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
while upgrading to the v8 tie rod, should the drag link be replaced too or they usually last the life of the vehicle? I have a loose TRE at the tie rod itself, but the drag link and stabilizer (both stock) seem fine.
because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says).
I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.
because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says).
I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.