09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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04-19-2016, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: St Pete Florida
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4 liter
while upgrading to the v8 tie rod, should the drag link be replaced too or they usually last the life of the vehicle? I have a loose TRE at the tie rod itself, but the drag link and stabilizer (both stock) seem fine.
because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says).
I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.
because of work / no access to a proper place to do this, I'll have to get a shop to do it, and the guy was trying to convince me that I need to replace the drag link too, because with a new tie rod / TREs, it'll end up failing soon. kinda like putting new ball joints on one side but not the other (from what he says).
I could save the money it would cost, but on the other hand if he's right and it does fail soon because of the new tie rod, I'll be pissed I didn't do it, so I'm just wondering if people usually change the drag link too.
Unless you are replacing everything with Genuine yellow blue box Moog, your factory parts are definately better than whatever cheap crap china stuff a shop is gonna put on there.
Last edited by 89 comanche; 04-19-2016 at 07:00 PM.
04-19-2016, 07:42 PM
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Location: Long Island NY
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Model: Cherokee
Doing ball joints on my 98 but got stopped in my tracks because I don't have the right size socket for the lower nut.
Anyone know what size it is?
Youtubers said 32mm but no. It's bigger than 24mm. Guess would be 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 or metric equivalents.
Anyone know what size it is?
Youtubers said 32mm but no. It's bigger than 24mm. Guess would be 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 or metric equivalents.
04-19-2016, 07:45 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
use a measuring tape to measure, or even a caliper if you got one.
04-19-2016, 08:16 PM
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Model: Cherokee
It's a little tricky to get a good measurement though because the lower nut has tapered edges. Best I can tell its 1 1/8".
04-19-2016, 09:32 PM
CF Veteran
Cool, thanks. Is it worth switching oil weights between summer and winter? Or should I just stick with 10w-30 year round. It usually doesn't get above 90F, but I need to get my e fan working too, lol. Temp climbed to almost 220 climbing a muddy rocky hill and it never kicked on.
04-19-2016, 09:33 PM
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
224*F is the magic number. If it still doesn't work, check the relay first.
04-19-2016, 09:42 PM
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04-19-2016, 09:44 PM
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04-19-2016, 10:34 PM
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Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Cool, thanks. Is it worth switching oil weights between summer and winter? Or should I just stick with 10w-30 year round. It usually doesn't get above 90F, but I need to get my e fan working too, lol. Temp climbed to almost 220 climbing a muddy rocky hill and it never kicked on.
04-20-2016, 11:39 AM
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Location: NW, MS 'Yall
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5
Glass rubber/seals??
Me again, I found a 2dr cherokee at the yard with rear side vented windows.
Got them out fine since they have a frame around them to pry on/out.
NOW wanting to swap them out, my original 'flat' glass might bust prying like I did on the ohters, so i may have to cut it out. That would leave me with damaged seals.
Can one still order the glass seal around that glass from the "Stealer-ship" or do I have to try and not damage it?
I 'might' be able to re-use the seal, but might break or cut when I use the string and soap technique to install. I'd rather just get new ones.
Thanks
Errol
Got them out fine since they have a frame around them to pry on/out.
NOW wanting to swap them out, my original 'flat' glass might bust prying like I did on the ohters, so i may have to cut it out. That would leave me with damaged seals.
Can one still order the glass seal around that glass from the "Stealer-ship" or do I have to try and not damage it?
I 'might' be able to re-use the seal, but might break or cut when I use the string and soap technique to install. I'd rather just get new ones.
Thanks
Errol
04-20-2016, 03:18 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
04-20-2016, 04:47 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
04-21-2016, 09:35 AM
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Model: Cherokee
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
I have looked all around for answers to my problem and found a lot of solutions for similar, but not the same symptoms I am having. I just bought a used Cherokee and while driving the RPM guage (not the engine) will sporadically go all the way up and down and in between, and my engine will stall. At first I was able to start it up afterwards but with a very hard start almost draining my battery. I noticed leaks in the vacuum hoses and quickly taped them and it has ran fine for a few days until this morning it happened again. I am going to replace the vacuum hoses today but am wondering if there is anything else that could be causing this to happen?