jatoxico

That's what it turned out be. New ones using the same size as well.

indeepwithajeep

I guess I'm looking for someone to reaffirm my thoughts here...

I've had an alignment issue for a little bit now. Slight pull to the right and the toe in doesn't seem to mirror the other side. I've went to an alignment shop and they say everything is within spec.

Anyways I've noticed after hitting a speed bump at a good rate, or I flex out the suspension my steering wheel position will change. It's almost as if the collar is slipping threads. However everything is tight and remains in position.

So I'm thinking that my drag link might be bent? Causing steering wheel to change position when the tie rods roll? Which also kind of explains the toe-in not matching the other side.

89 comanche

Did they check that the front and rear axle are parallel and square to each other? I can't get a shop to do it so I do it with tape measures and welded angle iron. If the right front wheel hit something or has a worn ca bushing it can trail back still be in spec on a 2 wheel alignment but not be parallel to the rear axle.

My TJ did this, the right front wheel was hit when offroading. I cut off and welded a new lca bracket on but it was still pulling. I had 2 different alignment shops work on it, one was Jeffs Jeep yard who should know everything about Jeeps. Neither of them was of any use besides emptying my wallet. So I put on all adj control arms and got them both parallel and square and its fine.

xj tj yj mj Jeeps can be aligned at home with tape measures, angle iron, a angle finder and patience. Better than some looser with a lazer alignment rack and no tool besides a impact wrench and sockets.

Steering wheel change indicates the track bar and steering linkage are not in the same plane.

Could also be a unit wheel bearing going bad.

89 comanche

I just noticed you have RE short arms, do you have the drop brackets? Those shift around if you don't weld them in place.

thomasjheston

I've got a replacement oil pressure switch. I'm fairly certain how to change it out, but must I disconnect the battery or can I just leave it

XJwonders

just unplug the oil switch and have at it

indeepwithajeep

No drop brackets. The RE arms are in good standing condition. Only mild wheeling with being sensible on the skinny pedal with the Jeep. I did a driveway alignment before going to the alignment shop, which is when they told me everything was spot on already. I had them verify the toe in also.

The pull started when I threw in a new tie rod (longer than stock (IRO soild tie rod)), and the upper control arms. My castor is in check and every control arm matches the adjacent side.

Cane

im testing some 703 injectors to see if they are opening when I plug a power source to it, and noticed 2 distinctive 'ticks' when doing it without any cleaning fluid.

some of them produce a higher note with a slight echo while the others are more dull or thud (don't know if it's the right word, basically the opposite of an echo, but it's a definitely a click)

is this a sign either ones have something wrong or I shouldn't worry about that? i already cleaned most of them, I still need to find a last set, but it's happening to some that I considered usable and that sprayed fine. I'm not familiar with the mechanism inside other than it's electromagnetic, so I don't really know if it could be a sign of some small part starting to fail / that failed.

puntforloss

Long time reader and first time poster.

I am soon to return from working abroad and will need to buy a stock-ish xj (cheap is better than pretty for my needs) for a DD that I plan on doing a slow-build.
One xj that I am considering (1998) has a factory limited slip 3.55 in a Chrysler 8.25. Can it be converted to an open 4.10 or a locker 4.10?
If so, are there any special steps other than the normal gear swap?
I looked all over betting that this info was already posted and I apologize if I missed it. Please direct my lost *** to the right spot.

Jeeps & thank you,
Puntforloss

XJwonders

you would need to get an open carrier to do that

puntforloss

Thanks. But, I am still a bit confused. I've tortured my vehicles with wrenches since a kid but never messed with gears. So, I am a bit lost.
I know what the pinion gear is and the ring gear is.
But, are we calling the 'carrier' and the 'differential' the same thing?
If I get a 4.10 ring gear with a 4.10 pinion, I would still have to throw out the 'trash loc' dif-carrier that came with the 3.55 gears and get one that would work with the new 4.10 gears?
Am I slowly catching on?
Thanks for your patience. Your clearing up my confusion is a HUGE help and I appreciate it.

XJwonders

the carrier is what the ring gear bolts on. There's no carrier break on the 8.25, but since u wanted open so u can put a locker in it, or a full case locker, u would have to ditch the LSD carrier

thomasjheston

What atf do you recommend for transfer case fluid

XJwonders

any ATF would do. U need 2 quarts

puntforloss

I see. You are calling the 'carrier' the gadget that holds the spider gears in an open differential.

What had me confused is that some manual say the 'carrier' is what I think of as the housing that you see on the outside that holds all the gears and attaches to the axle tubes.

If I ran out of money, could I use the 'trash lock' with the new 4.10 gears until I saved my pennies and got a locker?