93XJeeper

alright, the more I think about it the harder it sounds to do. The main reason I was waning to do so was because I could get all the ZJ parts for free, where as I would have to pay for the xj parts lol. I'll be getting the factory parts at JY soon instead. Thanks

odgreen

Junk yard a.c. parts are asking for failure.

93XJeeper

well then, I'm all out of options and money.

93XJeeper

Also, the junkyard I go to (PullaPart) is constantly getting new inventory. I have never seen a jeep xj there that was in the yard for over two months. So a donor jeep was probably up and running not long before hand.

SatiricalHen

just because it was running doesn't mean the ac was working. My neighbor drives his Cherokee without ac

odgreen

Fix it right or don't fix it at all. Do you need a.c.?

StationSyx

I have seen a few posts regarding this, but I want to ask to make sure. I own a 1989 Laredo, 4.0 I6, bone stock save for repairs and a CAI that the previous owner had put in. Anyway, couple weeks ago, we had a pretty bad snow and I got caught in an ice patch, drove into a curb and ruined my lower control arm. Got that fixed a few days ago and went to run around for a few, popped it into four wheel drive and it started clunking, sort of like when I dropped my driveshaft out about 8 months ago. I'm fairly new to Jeeps, but, if I'm not mistaken, it has the NP242 TC.

Enough backstory, the thing is, it only makes the noise in four wheel drive and when I hit the throttle. Do I maybe have a bad gear and need a rebuild? Or could it be something in the front axle? Or did I bend something else up when I bent the control arm? I hadn't dropped it into four wheel while it was bent and only drove it to O'Reilly's and home.

Sorry for the long post, but figured this would be better than a whole new thread.

gunmetal_nightrider

Regardless of the clunking you need to check EVERYTHING up front if you bent an actual control arm. With our drive system everything is always moving. Front shafts, rear shafts, t case, etc. Im no expert but since the noise only happens after you change t case gear you should probably swap the tcase to the 231 if you have the ability. If not, youre gonna have to go a-huntin' for that noise. Im presuming you were in some form of 4wd in the snow so you may have chipped or broke a tooth or worse in the t case.

SteveMongr

StationSyx, first check the axle u-joints for play/slop/breakage.

rcguymike

So I'm attempting to get everything together for a KJ disk brake swap, and figured I might as well do everything with new parts. The current problem I'm facing is where to get the backing plates without breaking the bank...I found one side for less than ~$150 but the other side I'm finding is ~$300+!!! Anyone know of a better place to get them?

Here's my list, am I missing anything?
Backing plates(all parking hardware?)Backing Plate Studs x8
Rotors
Calipers(with bolts)
Pads
Wheel Studs x10
Parking brake cablesBrake lines (ZJ?)(Caliper to hard line?)Axle sealsAxle Bearings?
Diff fluid

Basslicks

Check your transmission kick-down cable and your fuel pressure. Either one of these could be the cause of the problem you're describing. Fuel pressure decrease could be fuel pressure regulator, a clogged fuel filter, OR your fuel pump could be on its way out.

pop from where? the tranny or the motor?

NewKindOfClown

Driveline, but I can't tell where. Trans is getting worse, though. Now it rolls back like a manual if I take my foot off the brake. Torque converter locks when it shouldn't.

I'm not gonna worry about it unless it persists after the trans rebuild

Basslicks

I've HEARD of people having similar problems when the torque converter isn't seated correctly... but normally, they can't even drive it around for more than about a minute before it pretty much grenades the tranny.

NewKindOfClown

I just had to turn around and park it cause the TC wouldn't lock up today. 4k RPMs at 55mph, and I could hear metal on metal through the trans tunnel. Looks like I'm still driving the J10 for now

Basslicks