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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Engine: The legendary inline 6, haven't done anything here yet
I'm not gonna lie I could have looked it up lol! I just thought someone would read my location description and see the part and be like oh that's a _____. Thanks salad and other guy!
I just did a search on loose steering wheel. Any other special tools needed other than steering wheel puller and lock ring tool? Mine is a 91 with tilt column.
I just did a search on loose steering wheel. Any other special tools needed other than steering wheel puller and lock ring tool? Mine is a 91 with tilt column.
GM pivot pin removal tool is needed. You can get it at oreillys.
Love the Cherokee Forum but have only posted a few times, thanks for any help in advance. My XJ's front P/Side was making noise and on further inspection it seems the bracket that holds the shock to the axel has broken off due to rust. Right now I'm driving with only the d/side shock attached to axel. Figured maybe it could be welded and took it to someone who said it could, and upon further inspecting, the driver side may also soon face the same fate and he said he'd do both.
Considering the cost of welding, I think it makes sense to simply replace the front axel (right?), hence my following questions:
* What am I looking for as far axel, Dana 30 or 35 or even 40 (don't know the difference) and how do I know the difference, is it stamped on the axel?
* from what I've read seems like a HP Dana 30 (does this mean High Pinion) & does it have to have a 3.55 gear ratio?
* How much can I expect to pay at a local Junk yard and/or online & does it have to be from a 99 XJ?
* Finally how do I ensure that a used one is working before I buy it?
* should I change any of the unjoints/axel seals if installing a new axel?
Last summer I changed a bent tie rod bar and several tie rods along along with the steering stabalizer and I've also been planning on lifting the truck for some time, figure this is a good time to kill multiple birds if swapping the axel, any suggestions if I do what while it's off? Thanks for answering my questions in advance, I love that jeep!
The horn on my '93 2.5L XJ has not worked since I've owned it. I'm trying to fix it and trying to follow the advice given in this thread:
Originally Posted by HighRoller
. . . on older models you can grab the horn button in the middle of the steering wheel and pull it off easily. Once it's off you'll notice a metal ring with contact tabs sticking up. When you push the horn cap it pushes the contacts together for the horn to sound.... Sometimes they get corroded or dirty and just rubbing them good with an eraser fixes the problem. It's easy and self explanatory once you see it with the cap off.
When I remove the horn button, I have no idea what I'm supposed to be looking at or what I'm supposed to clean. This is what I see:
Is my steering wheel missing the metal ring with contact tabs? Am I an idiot and looking in the wrong place?
Love the Cherokee Forum but have only posted a few times, thanks for any help in advance. My XJ's front P/Side was making noise and on further inspection it seems the bracket that holds the shock to the axel has broken off due to rust. Right now I'm driving with only the d/side shock attached to axel. Figured maybe it could be welded and took it to someone who said it could, and upon further inspecting, the driver side may also soon face the same fate and he said he'd do both.
Considering the cost of welding, I think it makes sense to simply replace the front axel (right?), hence my following questions:
* What am I looking for as far axel, Dana 30 or 35 or even 40 (don't know the difference) and how do I know the difference, is it stamped on the axel?
* from what I've read seems like a HP Dana 30 (does this mean High Pinion) & does it have to have a 3.55 gear ratio?
* How much can I expect to pay at a local Junk yard and/or online & does it have to be from a 99 XJ?
* Finally how do I ensure that a used one is working before I buy it?
* should I change any of the unjoints/axel seals if installing a new axel?
Last summer I changed a bent tie rod bar and several tie rods along along with the steering stabalizer and I've also been planning on lifting the truck for some time, figure this is a good time to kill multiple birds if swapping the axel, any suggestions if I do what while it's off? Thanks for answering my questions in advance, I love that jeep!
Good idea, if the shock mounts rotted off, the spring perches aren't far behind.
The XJ only ever shipped with one model of front axle, the Dana 30. The Dana 35 and 44 only shipped as rear axles in these vehicles. There are a few revisions to how it was assembled over the years, but 1996-1999 were all identical. During this time period, all 4WD XJs with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission shipped with a High Pinion Dana 30 with 3.55:1 gears. 1991-1995 models shipped in the same configuration, but use smaller U joints in the axle shafts. You can swap in the shafts from your existing axle, if you want the strength. They're not very hard to find, this is pretty much "the" axle that most XJs came with. Check your local Craigslist or the For Sale section here, post a wanted ad, perhaps. Junkyard prices vary wildly for axles.
Basically, if the axle is still on a Jeep, it probably works fine. These things are very simple. You want to make sure the parts still turn. If they make any noise, you need to nail down where that noise is coming from. Pop the differential cover off and take a peek inside. Gears should not have any chips missing, strange wear on the edges of teeth, be rusty, etc. A typical used axle should get the outer hub unit bearings, ball joints, U joints, pinion seal, and axle shaft seals replaced. I wouldn't be concerned about any problems with the U joints or hub bearings.
Other things to do would of course be a refresh of the brakes, control arm bushings, track bar bushings, and steering. Do a search on here for the "V8 ZJ steering upgrade", the tie bar is actually solid steel instead of a very long hollow adjusting sleeve.
Be sure to inspect the rest of your Jeep for rust. The Salt Belt is not kind to XJs, and if your shock mounts are rotting off, you should determine what else is rotten on your Jeep before you invest too much into it, and one day it just snaps in two.
Week Long Journey, at wits end....Help w/ '00 XJ Stalling?
Hello All, first I do apologize for the length of my original post. I have edited it down. I wanted to be thorough and...yes I am a Newbie. Saw the title of this Thread and thought it would be a great place to start. I REALLY could use some guidance.
I had posted a book last night, and have had some more time to research, and I think I know where to go. I will give a brief synopsis, and please give any input that might help.
I have a 2000 XJ w/ 4.0l, RHD, 2WD, AT, & 200k.
My issue is that my Jeep will stall, mostly when hot/warmed up (traveled at least 4 miles or 15 minutes). Most of the time it will restart after 2- 5 min, and then will travel anywhere from 1/4 to 5 miles then stall again. Stalling happens mostly at idle/stop (in gear), but has stalled a few times while driving 10 to 25 mph, as well as in Park/N.
Originally threw an o2 code and one other that I cannot remember---- replaced o2 sensor --- did not help stalling issue
Then 2 more codes:
P0171-- Fuel system lean bank 1 and
P0123-- TPS Circuit High Input---- Replaced the TPS ---- dn help
Next code:
P0122--TPS Sensor open/shorted; check connector wiring--- my tech buddy checked TPS, working fine
He said might be CPS--- changed it---no help
He came over, hooked up diagnostic scanner/computer. Finally it started to buck at Idle, he read misfires in #3 and#5. Thought might be from Coil Pack. --- Replaced Coil Pack---no help
Adv get Fuel Pressure test. On the way to local garage it stalled again and threw P0171-- lean code again. The mechanic there has a lot of Jeep experience. He put a key on Shrader(?) valve, and more air than fuel was coming out, said no fuel in Jeep. I told him I just put fuel in. He then said could be fuel pump. He then sprayed the fuel rail with Brake Kleen (to cool off), now only fuel out of Shrader Valve. Now this mechanic felt it is the fuel "boiling" from heat, causing my (lean) issue and the misfiring. I did have most of the heat shield on the Throttle Body, albeit it is tattered. I inquired why all of a sudden a heat issue? The mechanic did a vacuum test, and it was 16/18. He said that is a large variance from where it should be 20/23. He said he feels the CAT is clogged, causing extra heat and thus my problem (along with heat shield deteriorating).
I ran this by my friend (30yr exp tech), and he really feels it is not a heat issue. I never got the fuel pressure, as the mechanic said "fuel too hot, will not get an accurate reading". My friend is coming over tonight to read the Fuel Pressure. His thought is Fuel Pump, if not then maybe computer (ECM?) might be issue (when he was hooked up to the engine a few days ago, it lost connectivity 3 different times...he really dn like that that happened).
So...after now reading a lot on this sight, I am seeing that there has been an overheating issue with some, causing misfires and stalling. So my thoughts, at this point are:
Get the fuel pressure reading, as it obviously it could be the Fuel Pump.
Do not discount the overheating possibility.. wrap the fuel rail in heat resistant tape?
If it is not the Fuel Pump, or Overheating, I really hope it is not the "computer".
Any help / insight would be appreciated.
UPDATE; Friday 5/13: Fuel pressure drops when engine stumbles. Drops to 20 to 25psi. Will recover and then crash again. Friend/Tech said Fuel Pump, so will replace that next. Will update when done next week.
Last edited by JerryLeeK9; 05-13-2016 at 03:18 PM.
Reason: First post way too long.
Thanks for the detailed reply Salad, so it sounds like a Dana 30 is the axel I need for my '99 XJ, I'm assuming that I should be looking for the axel from an auto transmission since that is what I currently have. And yes I will be doing a thorough rust evaluation, thanks again!
Hello All, first I do apologize for the length of the post, I wanted to be thorough and...yes I am a Newbie. Saw the title of this Thread and thought it would be a great place to start. I REALLY need some guidance.
I have a 2000 XJ w/ 4.0l, RHD, 2WD, AT, & 200k.
My issue is that my Jeep will stall, mostly when hot/warmed up (traveled at least 4 miles or 15 minutes). Most of the time it will restart after 5 min, and then will travel anywhere from 1/4 to 5 miles then stall again. Stalling happens mostly at idle/stop (in gear), but has stalled a few times while driving 20 to 30 mph, as well as in Park/N.
When this first started my friend (ASE Tech for 30 yrs) told me to see if any codes had been thrown, I did....
1) O2 Code
2) I cannot remember exactly the 2nd code.
So, I had the 02 sensor changed. Jeep kept stalling.
It threw 2 more codes:
1)P0171 Fuel System Lean Bank 1
2)P0123 TPS Circuit High Input
So I replaced the TPS
Jeep ended up stalling yet again
Ran codes again, got:
P0122 TPS Sensor open or shorted; check connector and wiring
I took it to my friend he put a meter to the TPS, manipulated the throttle, and said it was running through its progressions fine... TPS good.
Now he told me that (now hear is where I really dn have the knowledge) the system sometimes will default to the TPS code as the most likely reason for whatever happened. Meaning, he thought it could also be the CPS, so... I replace the CPS. Thought that would work...nope, still happened.
He came over yesterday and hooked up is diagnostic scanner and we waited for the Jeep to "stumble" at idle, and it did. He read an issue with cylinder 3 and cylinder 5 misfire (3 more than 5). Since they both tied to the same part of the coil, he felt it could be the coil pack. Another note hear was that his scanner lost communication a couple of times, which is not normal. (A side thought is maybe an issue with the ECM, as it may not be communicating properly and causing issue) so...today I replaced the Coil Pack and Plugs, and..... after about 10 miles of Hwy driving I felt a little surge/fall off. As soon as I got off the highway I could feel it was sluggish. At a stop, the idle dropped to about 500, then recovered. It felt like it wanted to die at each stop/light, so I would idle a bit higher to keep running. Well about 3 miles later is stalled again. So.. I limped it home, text my friend. He got back to me and asked me to go and get the Fuel Pressure Tested.
I was on my way to do that, and it stalled yet again. And threw a code. Finally made it there.
Now this is a local garage, with a mechanic that has owned a number of jeeps and has had the 4.0L himself.
First, the code is the:
P0171 code again (I assumed, as he said it was Lean Fuel Code)
This guy presses on the fuel rail "release" (where you would hook up the tester) with a key, and out comes a whole bunch of air, with some fuel. He comments that there is no gas in the Jeep. I tell him I just put 1/2 tank in. He then says the fuel is "not making it up there" and it is running lean. He tells me the causes could be:
1) the fuel pump sending unit, basically not enough fuel is making it up there.
2)The fuel is boiling in the Fuel Rail causing the excess amount of air / lean fuel.
He then had me shut off the Jeep and he sprayed the Fuel Rail with Brake Kleen (to cool it down). He then went to release Fuel/Air, and it was all Fuel.
So...now he is convinced (Important, because my 30 yr ASE Master Tech friend does not agree) that the reason for my stalling is the Fuel is boiling in the Fuel Rail, thus leading to the lean fuel etc, etc.
Fix: He tells me to get a new Heat "shield", that I would be surprised how much heat comes off that manifold, right under the throttle body.
I questioned, Why now? That heat shield/insulation has been tattered for awhile, why all of a sudden is the fuel boiling, when it wasn't before. Well then he thinks, and decides to do a vacuum test to see if CAT is working properly.
Result: Reading was 16-18. He tells me that is a significant variance, for the 20 to 23 is should be. Now, this local Mechanic, is almost sure..now.. that I need a new CAT and to replace the Heat "shield" under the Fuel Rail, as the CAT is overheating, causing the fuel to boil, run lean (code that has come up 3x this week).
Whew... still with me?
Well my Best Friend, Mr. ASE Master Tech feels there is no way in Hades that the fuel is boiling. He really wants a Fuel Pressure Test (which Mechanic B said was no use of reading, as fuel was too hot and that it would not be a reliable read). My friend is livid (he works in a nearby state, and it is hard for him to get to me), and said he will come over and read it tomorrow. He is concerned that it threw the lean code again. I really think he feels it has to do with the Fuel Pump, as feels when the pump gets hot it will fail, then cool down and work, then fail again. If not the Fuel Pump he is considering the ECM not communicating properly.
And here I sit....so I reach out to any and all of you. Have you heard of a scenario like this before? I tried to do some searching, but can't really find someone who has gone through all of this. If I missed it , I apologize.
Just to recap the past 7 days:
Stalling when Hot, sit a few minutes will restart (rinse and repeat)
Codes thrown: O2 code, P0171 (3x), P0123, P0122,
Replaced: O2 Sensor, TPS, CPS, Coil Pack
One last thing, the Local Mechanic warned me (because of his diagnosis of extreme heat, as well as when I started it one time he heard a piston "noise" which he said was do to the lean fuel and an early ignition in that cylinder) that the "internal combustion temperature" is probably dangerously hot and that I could end up damaging (I think he said melting) the pistons.
Ok... done, either one of them right? are they both right?
Thanks for your patience with this Newbie,
Mike in PA
Quite the story there!
There is a TSB issued by Chrysler that deals with boiling fuel in the 2000+ 4.0L engine. The issue as described is caused by the miniature catalytic converters in the exhaust manifold (if equipped): Heat kicked off by them, which is more the older the vehicle is (clogging etc), does rise up and boil fuel in the rails. The electric fan on the driver's side only turns on when the coolant temperature hits a certain limit or the A/C is in use, so at lower speeds, particularly when stopped, all of that heat is trapped. The most common manifestation is that the vehicle will run rough if just shut off, but with a lot of low-speed operation, it's not inconcievable that it could boil fuel inside the rail while it's running. Such heat would also wreak havoc on electrical connectors in the area.
The TSB involves wrapping the fuel injectors with some foil, but really the entire fuel system should be insulated. You may wish to consider replacing the miniature cats, or overriding the electric fan as a work-around - IF this is in fact the problem you're having.
Also don't ignore the possibility of a poor ground.
For reference, 2000+ fuel pressure is supposed to be 49 PSI at the rail.
Originally Posted by RSWiser
I have a 99 Cherokee Sport with a 4.5" Lift.
I pretty much only use it to go off road (drive to and from the off-road).
When I go, I release my stabilizer bar.
What would be the best length front shock. Collapsed and Extended.
RSWiser
You'll need to find yourself a ramp or somethig to flex on and measure. Every rig is different. But I suppose someone in the Modified Tech section might have a suggestion...
Originally Posted by Cherokee Charlie
Thanks for the detailed reply Salad, so it sounds like a Dana 30 is the axel I need for my '99 XJ, I'm assuming that I should be looking for the axel from an auto transmission since that is what I currently have. And yes I will be doing a thorough rust evaluation, thanks again!
No problem. Yes, needs to have the same gear ratio. Cheers
There are tons of codes relating to O2 sensors and wiring that will trigger a CEL.
If it's on, pull the code!
x2 - you can do it without a scanner too. Key on/off 3x and leave it to "On" position without starting on the third time.... code will display in the odometer display.
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
99 XJ Sport Front Axel Replace
Week Long Journey, at wits end....Help w/ '00 XJ Stalling?
