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Old 05-20-2016, 01:03 PM
  #54196  
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Originally Posted by 7ate9
Hey guys hope everyone is good!!
1990 jeep Cherokee xj4.0 242tc. I need to pull my front drive shaft for service, is this fairly easy??
And can I drive it without the front drive shaft for a while?
What is the process for this ?
Transfer case crossmember have to come off?
Thanks!
Take out four 8mm bolts at the axle and four 8mm bolts at the transfer case. They're at either end of the driveshaft. Nothing else needs to come apart, and you can drive it that way
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:08 PM
  #54197  
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Originally Posted by 7ate9
Hey guys hope everyone is good!!
1990 jeep Cherokee xj4.0 242tc. I need to pull my front drive shaft for service, is this fairly easy??
And can I drive it without the front drive shaft for a while?
What is the process for this ?
Transfer case crossmember have to come off?
Thanks!
Fairly easy. Supposed to mark yoke of axle and transfer case so that driveshaft goes back on with the same orientation.
Nothing else needs to be removed.
5/16" 12 point wrench to remove transfer case side.
5/16" socket to remove axle side.
Perfectly fine to drive without it.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:31 PM
  #54198  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
It was the ground on the Putco harness. I didn't scrape away enough paint. I used the bolt that is right behind the turn signal. You could try adding a temporary ground to the headlight circuit with jumper cables, alligator clips or having someone hold some wire on it to see if it helps? That's all I can think of ATM.
alright, I'll check it. I believe mine is grounded to the radiator support. Do you have LEDs or was it doing that with incandescent bulbs?
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:36 PM
  #54199  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
alright, I'll check it. I believe mine is grounded to the radiator support. Do you have LEDs or was it doing that with incandescent bulbs?
Standard bulbs.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:04 PM
  #54200  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Standard bulbs.
tried the putco harness grounded elsewhere, no luck, tried adding a ground for brake and for rear turn with no luck, what should I try next?
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:36 PM
  #54201  
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Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:28 PM
  #54202  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
tried the putco harness grounded elsewhere, no luck, tried adding a ground for brake and for rear turn with no luck, what should I try next?
I'm kinda shooting in the dark at this point. Maybe the gauge cluster ground? Anyone else have ideas?
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:01 PM
  #54203  
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Hello everyone , i would like to ask you guys something here about cylinder head torque that i dont undestand ; i have a cherokee 2.5td and im falowing the manual but there is a detail there that i dont undestand , in a moment they say this: " Tighten M1 bolts to 30N·m, then rotate them 85° (+-5) " what does this +-5 means? i undestand to rotate 85 degreas but what does it means this more or less 5 , anyone undestand this?
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:11 PM
  #54204  
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Plus or minus 5°. So 90° would be ok and so would 80°
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:23 PM
  #54205  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
I'm kinda shooting in the dark at this point. Maybe the gauge cluster ground? Anyone else have ideas?
it's the weirdest thing. I mean no matter what it is I should fix it since the resistance of incandescents is just hiding the problem which could end up being something worse maybe.
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:14 AM
  #54206  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
it's the weirdest thing. I mean no matter what it is I should fix it since the resistance of incandescents is just hiding the problem which could end up being something worse maybe.
Do your new relays have a built in resistor or diode? That could do funky stuff.

On a separate note:
I haven't been able to get in contact with Blaine: what bolts do I use to mount the backing plates to the axles? The ones on the backing plates are to big to fit through the holes on the axle flange and the extra ones labeled for the d44 or 8.8 are a bit small for the backing plate holes. Or does that not really matter? Also the ones that came on the backing plate seem just as long as the original.
click for full res
I think I'm leaning towards using the slightly smaller longer bolts.

Last edited by rcguymike; 05-21-2016 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:02 AM
  #54207  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Do your new relays have a built in resistor or diode? That code do funky stuff.
the relay is made to be used with both LED and incandescent bulbs so I doubt that it is the cause. I think it did the same stuff with the other relay, the turn signals just didn't work.
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:02 PM
  #54208  
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Random question, saw HD offroad's vendor post. What's the point in converting to rear shock towers over the stock mounting? I can see the clearance increase.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:22 PM
  #54209  
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So I got the Wolo big bad max horn. Little larger than stock horn.... any ideas on where to mount this thing? Should I just go to the stock location and hope my 33s don't rub it?
Ps just bought this xj and need a horn for inspection. Didn't wanna play with stock wiring because nothing is hooked up to the stock horn currently and looks like it could be a mess so I'm just wiring up a button independent of the stock horn.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:27 PM
  #54210  
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Getting some very minimals wobble when im driving, doesnt matter the speed. The issue is when I start to brake the wobble gets worse the more i brake until a point nad then it just stops when i start to brake harder. Was thinking it was my rotors since I really feel it only while braking. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
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