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Old 05-24-2016, 08:42 PM
  #54241  
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OK. Sounds like I should just get a new long block for 2001 model. Was gonna do it myself but my mechanic buddy will do it for $300 and I trust him. I was concerned with the 0331 head after reading of them being crap. But will just stick with it assuming it will be on a 2001 long block I buy. Mine has been good. Head needs to be rebuilt because it's tired but no cracks at least that we know of. I go overboard with maintenance. Sometimes I even drain the oil, refill, drive it for 15-30 minutes, then change again and replace the filter. My oil usually isn't even dirty after 3000 miles. Overkill I know but I like not being able to see the oil on the dipstick without looking close. Thanks!

Originally Posted by KaMoore
If you are going to go the the long block route, you should get a new head with it. If you go with a rebuilt 4.0L you should still have good motor long after the body rusts away. The only thing that kills an engine is poor maintenance.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:31 PM
  #54242  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I haven't been following this diagnosis, but is rod knock a possibility here? I haven't personally seen it occur in a 4.0L
That was my original thought, but the more I've looked into it it points the the flex plate. A bolt loose or the plate damaged
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:07 PM
  #54243  
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Originally Posted by muley
...with the volume of results when I search. I've been reading for 2 days and it seems like I'll need a few more just testing everything.

2 questions: Crank no start - I get 48lbs of fuel pressure on prime, but drops to about 42 within a few seconds. Is that low enough so it won't start?

#2) 2000 4.0 with coil rails - how can I check spark fast and easy when it's got no plug wires?

BTW, no codes, no mil problems.

We use this mostly for going up where no one else is, no multi meters or custom test equipment there, and a tow would be a helicopter pick (or just leave it there and walk out over a period of days) I get the feeling I'll never trust it to get us back after reading all the sensors and stuff that can go wrong. Luckily, it died in it's sleep in our driveway......this time.

Should have got something with a carb and points, I guess.
Try swapping the CPS? I'm no expert but from what little I've seen it sounds like an easy place to start.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:20 PM
  #54244  
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I looked at a lot of the documentation related to overheating and could not find anything referencing my specifc situation. Here goes...

Under normal operation, no problems at all. On a hot day, with the AC on, at a long traffic light or anytime I stop travelling at speed for more thant a few minutes, temperture shoots up from 210 to 250 in the blink of an eye. It doesn't creep up it shoots up. More out of panic than anything else, I switched from AC to Heat and after a minute or two, the temperature drops suddenly back to 210. It doesn't slowly drop it drops suddenly.

I do not think the electric fan is working properly but do not know how to test it but could a fan make the sudden change in temp i am seeing?

My totally amateur diagnosid is thermostat and i'll replace it as it is realtively cheap and one of the few auto repair projects i a comforatble completing myself.

Has anyone heard of or experienced this before?

Any and all suggestions welcome.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:29 PM
  #54245  
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Originally Posted by 98 Cherokee Classic
I looked at a lot of the documentation related to overheating and could not find anything referencing my specifc situation. Here goes...

Under normal operation, no problems at all. On a hot day, with the AC on, at a long traffic light or anytime I stop travelling at speed for more thant a few minutes, temperture shoots up from 210 to 250 in the blink of an eye. It doesn't creep up it shoots up. More out of panic than anything else, I switched from AC to Heat and after a minute or two, the temperature drops suddenly back to 210. It doesn't slowly drop it drops suddenly.

I do not think the electric fan is working properly but do not know how to test it but could a fan make the sudden change in temp i am seeing?

My totally amateur diagnosid is thermostat and i'll replace it as it is realtively cheap and one of the few auto repair projects i a comforatble completing myself.

Has anyone heard of or experienced this before?

Any and all suggestions welcome.
I'd leave the thermostat alone for now and start with your mechanical fan clutch. That's what stops you from overheating at low speed, and it sounds like it can't overcome the A/C.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rial_6016111-p
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:31 PM
  #54246  
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Originally Posted by muley
...with the volume of results when I search. I've been reading for 2 days and it seems like I'll need a few more just testing everything.

2 questions: Crank no start - I get 48lbs of fuel pressure on prime, but drops to about 42 within a few seconds. Is that low enough so it won't start?

#2) 2000 4.0 with coil rails - how can I check spark fast and easy when it's got no plug wires?

BTW, no codes, no mil problems.

We use this mostly for going up where no one else is, no multi meters or custom test equipment there, and a tow would be a helicopter pick (or just leave it there and walk out over a period of days) I get the feeling I'll never trust it to get us back after reading all the sensors and stuff that can go wrong. Luckily, it died in it's sleep in our driveway......this time.

Should have got something with a carb and points, I guess.

To check spark, you need one, or several, of these guys:



As for the crank-no-start, you might have a fuel leak somewhere, sure. Pull the plugs and see if they're wet. Wetness would indicate a slobbering injector. May also be a check valve, but if it shoots up to 48 immediately when the key is turned, a leak isn't terribly likely.

What other troubleshooting has been done? Have any electrical connections been refreshed? Are all fuses and relays good?

Do you own a scanner?

XJs are very reliable when taken care of. It doesn't take much to keep them in good shape, but almost all of them have been abused and neglected.


Originally Posted by PawPaw032101
Gentlemen. I'm jeep dumb admittedly. I love my 2001 xj, 225k miles. She has a rod knocking I believe. So, to keep it simple, do I just have to get a 2001 long block with the 0331 head? Is there a better long block that will go right in with no mods? Used engines scare me. I'm the guy that doesn't get lucky with other people's used stuff. And I want another 225k out of her anyway. Gonna put a paint job on her, engine, and maybe even the smallest lift out there and some bumpers. Anyway, any input would be much appreciated.
Well straightforward answer is... Kinda... The 2000-2001 engines have a weak 0331 head casting. Absolutely don't buy a used or NOS 2001 long block. Anything aftermarket, or a head with the TUPY foundry mark, is fine.

Further to that, if you're comfortable, you can piece together any XJ block with a 2003+ head, or buy an afternarket head, for a seamless solution.

(An older head will kinda work, but it needs an adapter to work correctly with the 2001 exhaust manifold)

Originally Posted by gigemjeep
Need some help. 99 4.0l 4wd
I started to experience a weird stumble when using cruise control the other night. reset my cruise and it worked perfectly fine. the next day when I was driving it's stumbled and revs dropped again, but kept moving and then at a stop sign it quit. did some searching and found that the TPS tends to be the most common culprit. so I tested and was getting poor voltage all the way through WOT. Installed new one, tested it and voltage was still poor which I thought was strange and this time I had a CEL at startup. . I took it around the corner to AutoZone and the scanner read two codes both pointing to TPS. So now I'm thinking I have a faulty TPS that I purchased and so I took it back and got a different one, installed that one and now my code is gone but my stumble seems like it's even worse now and it just kept cutting out in the driveway. anybody's thoughts on this? Throttle body and IAC recently cleaned. Vacuum lines? (Diagram please). Connector to TPS? Help please. Thanks.
Deal with the the TPS stuff first. It's absolutely critical to all of this.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:33 PM
  #54247  
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Originally Posted by 98 Cherokee Classic
I looked at a lot of the documentation related to overheating and could not find anything referencing my specifc situation. Here goes...

Under normal operation, no problems at all. On a hot day, with the AC on, at a long traffic light or anytime I stop travelling at speed for more thant a few minutes, temperture shoots up from 210 to 250 in the blink of an eye. It doesn't creep up it shoots up. More out of panic than anything else, I switched from AC to Heat and after a minute or two, the temperature drops suddenly back to 210. It doesn't slowly drop it drops suddenly.

I do not think the electric fan is working properly but do not know how to test it but could a fan make the sudden change in temp i am seeing?

My totally amateur diagnosid is thermostat and i'll replace it as it is realtively cheap and one of the few auto repair projects i a comforatble completing myself.

Has anyone heard of or experienced this before?

Any and all suggestions welcome.

Really easy test.

On 1998 model year, the electric fan should turn on as soon as the AC compressor is engaged.

Check any fuses lately?

That said, thermostats and the mechancal fan clutch ARE regular maintenance items.
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:23 AM
  #54248  
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Originally Posted by salad
Really easy test.

On 1998 model year, the electric fan should turn on as soon as the AC compressor is engaged.

Check any fuses lately?

That said, thermostats and the mechancal fan clutch ARE regular maintenance items.
Unless your A/C has no refrigerant...then the compressor won't turn on ;-)
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:41 AM
  #54249  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'd leave the thermostat alone for now and start with your mechanical fan clutch. That's what stops you from overheating at low speed, and it sounds like it can't overcome the A/C.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rial_6016111-p
Thanks so much.

It looks like this is at least part of the problem. The fan does not look like it is spinning anywhere near the speed of the engine. I didn't try to stop it but it i bet i could.

I will replace the fan clutch and see what happens.

The electric fan does not come on when the A/C compressor comes on.

What is the best way to determine whether it is fan motor, fuse or relay. I am total newb so jumping wires in the plugs is not something i know how to do.
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:53 AM
  #54250  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Unless your A/C has no refrigerant...then the compressor won't turn on ;-)
If refrigerant is low I understand the low pressure switch can be jumped to test fan.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'd leave the thermostat alone for now and start with your mechanical fan clutch. That's what stops you from overheating at low speed, and it sounds like it can't overcome the A/C.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rial_6016111-p
^That HD fan made all the difference for my AC. Engine would heat up when idling with AC with original clutch. Now it will idle with AC on MAX with no heat creep of engine.
It also helped to blast out the bugs and debris from condenser.
Heat issue is not just an increased load on engine, but the condenser transfers heat into radiator. Needs good airflow and open passages.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
If refrigerant is low I understand the low pressure switch can be jumped to test fan.



^That HD fan made all the difference for my AC. Engine would heat up when idling with AC with original clutch. Now it will idle with AC on MAX with no heat creep of engine.
It also helped to blast out the bugs and debris from condenser.
Heat issue is not just an increased load on engine, but the condenser transfers heat into radiator. Needs good airflow and open passages.
Thanks again. With the link you provided for the HD fan clutch, the website says that the particular fan clutch is not compatible with my vehicle.

My guess is you know that but wanted the increased performance?

Should I definitely go for the HD or do you think replacing it with a regular duty would be fine.

I do not think i am low on refrigerant as the A/C is blowing ice cold.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
Really easy test.

On 1998 model year, the electric fan should turn on as soon as the AC compressor is engaged.

Check any fuses lately?

That said, thermostats and the mechancal fan clutch ARE regular maintenance items.
I have not checked any fuses. I read on this forum that the fuse that controls the electric fan controls other things as well. I am not sure what fuse i should be checking.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:09 AM
  #54253  
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Originally Posted by 98 Cherokee Classic
Thanks again. With the link you provided for the HD fan clutch, the website says that the particular fan clutch is not compatible with my vehicle.

My guess is you know that but wanted the increased performance?

Should I definitely go for the HD or do you think replacing it with a regular duty would be fine.

I do not think i am low on refrigerant as the A/C is blowing ice cold.
Some people complain that the HD clutch is too loud, but I've never noticed it except at initial startup. I've installed them on five vehicles.

It's a Grand Cherokee part corresponding to a heavy duty option, but it fits right on an XJ
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 98 Cherokee Classic
I have not checked any fuses. I read on this forum that the fuse that controls the electric fan controls other things as well. I am not sure what fuse i should be checking.
The e-fan relay is a common failure, but it isn't the only possibility
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:30 AM
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Quick question... Is the most typical symptom of bad oil filter adapter o-rings oil running down the filter, and even back down to the bottom of the oil pan? I've noticed a streak of oil running down my oil filters after the last 5 or so oil changes, and I think it's starting to get worse. Before you ask, yes, the oil filters have been seated correctly. I just want to make sure there aren't any other reasons there would be oil there.
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