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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
I have a trans that I could part out but the clip on the end of cable have been broken off. I have another trans that I could part out but it's waiting for somebody to decide if he want it or not
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Breinigsville, PA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if you are talking about me ill pass its too much of a hassle to switch everything to make it work
CF Veteran
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Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What do we need here? The adapter housing from an AW4 to the transfer case on an XJ?
Beach Bum
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Finally got around to testing my TPS. According to the '99 FSM it says:
At 0 throttle I get .76 volts. It's smooth going up. I can pull out my crappy analog meter if I must. At WOT I only get 3.99V. It seems like unless I'm in park it's always fueling at least a little bit. It idles perfect in park and drops to 700 and doesn't move. Idling downhill I previously post a video of it fluctuating between 1k-1.2krpms which makes a snoring type sound. Is my TPS bad? Are auto zone lifetime warranty ones OK or should I get MOPAR? Any other thoughts?
Edit: also if I downshift to 3rd(around 48mph) the rpms go steady but the OBD2 reader doesn't peg to 99mpg like other vehicles seem to do. IIRC it drops a little.
With the ignition key in the ON position, check the TPS output voltage at the center terminal wire of the connector. Check this at idle (throttle plate closed) and at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS out-put voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. At wide open throttle, TPS output voltage must be less than 4.49 volts. The output voltage should increase gradually as the throttle plate is slowly opened from idle to WOT.
Edit: also if I downshift to 3rd(around 48mph) the rpms go steady but the OBD2 reader doesn't peg to 99mpg like other vehicles seem to do. IIRC it drops a little.
Also all new injectors and o2 sensors.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Got a throttle valve cable coming to me from a part out thread. Gonna hand it over to a tranny shop and have them install it. fraying is getting worse. just glad i could find a replacement
I'm changing my motor but my jeep is a manual and all the motors I'm finding are motors out of automatic jeeps. Now I'm hearing the I have to change out the pilot bearing and that I may have to change the electrical. Has anyone done it?
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Finally got around to testing my TPS. According to the '99 FSM it says:
At 0 throttle I get .76 volts. It's smooth going up. I can pull out my crappy analog meter if I must. At WOT I only get 3.99V. It seems like unless I'm in park it's always fueling at least a little bit. It idles perfect in park and drops to 700 and doesn't move. Idling downhill I previously post a video of it fluctuating between 1k-1.2krpms which makes a snoring type sound. Is my TPS bad? Are auto zone lifetime warranty ones OK or should I get MOPAR? Any other thoughts?
Edit: also if I downshift to 3rd(around 48mph) the rpms go steady but the OBD2 reader doesn't peg to 99mpg like other vehicles seem to do. IIRC it drops a little.
At 0 throttle I get .76 volts. It's smooth going up. I can pull out my crappy analog meter if I must. At WOT I only get 3.99V. It seems like unless I'm in park it's always fueling at least a little bit. It idles perfect in park and drops to 700 and doesn't move. Idling downhill I previously post a video of it fluctuating between 1k-1.2krpms which makes a snoring type sound. Is my TPS bad? Are auto zone lifetime warranty ones OK or should I get MOPAR? Any other thoughts?
Edit: also if I downshift to 3rd(around 48mph) the rpms go steady but the OBD2 reader doesn't peg to 99mpg like other vehicles seem to do. IIRC it drops a little.
OBD-II works by establishing a min and max threshold for signal levels. (0V would indicate a closed circuit, 5V indicates a short.) If I remember correctly, at rest (full close), the TPS should read 17%. Anything above the PCM assumes the throttle is being opened and won't mess around with the IAC and will start adding some fuel.
Before writing the TPS off completely, take it off and test the connector going into it. Record the voltage on the +5V pin and measure resistance to the battery negative post from the Sensor Ground pin.
Need a lot more information - all XJ long blocks are more or less compatible.