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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Only the Cherokee was offered with that axle, and it won't bolt into an MJ or any Wrangler
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1991 I6 4.0 HO
I just need to decide if the trip for this one is worth it. Maps says it's an hour and twelve minutes each way.
Last edited by Danny74; 06-06-2016 at 06:49 PM.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1991 I6 4.0 HO
Well, I might be buying a '96 Cherokee Country, parts jeep; this if I can find a place to park it while dismantling it.
I'm getting it for the whole interrior, including window motors, and front door. I was also going to take a fender and the rear springs, because I currently have a broken leaf on one of mine.
Even if its a weaker variant 8.25, it's still gotta be a better axle than what I got (D35), why not just use that one, right?
I'm getting it for the whole interrior, including window motors, and front door. I was also going to take a fender and the rear springs, because I currently have a broken leaf on one of mine.
Even if its a weaker variant 8.25, it's still gotta be a better axle than what I got (D35), why not just use that one, right?
Last edited by Danny74; 06-06-2016 at 07:21 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Partway through the '96 model year Chrysler switched from 27-spline to 29-spline axle shafts, and increased the strength of the shaft. The housing is the same. There is no way to tell without pulling the diff apart and taking a look.
The 27-spline is as weak as the D35, but harder to find aftermarket parts for, or they're more expensive. Given the choice between a 27-spline C8.25 and a D35, I'd probably stick with the D35. Both assume no larger than a 32" tire. A tie breaker would be if one had less rust or fewer miles.
I went like 5 hours for my C8.25, but I also picked up some tires and all three skid plates on the same trip lol
The 27-spline is as weak as the D35, but harder to find aftermarket parts for, or they're more expensive. Given the choice between a 27-spline C8.25 and a D35, I'd probably stick with the D35. Both assume no larger than a 32" tire. A tie breaker would be if one had less rust or fewer miles.
I went like 5 hours for my C8.25, but I also picked up some tires and all three skid plates on the same trip lol
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
No, I don't lick fish.
Partway through the '96 model year Chrysler switched from 27-spline to 29-spline axle shafts, and increased the strength of the shaft. The housing is the same. There is no way to tell without pulling the diff apart and taking a look.
The 27-spline is as weak as the D35, but harder to find aftermarket parts for, or they're more expensive. Given the choice between a 27-spline C8.25 and a D35, I'd probably stick with the D35. Both assume no larger than a 32" tire. A tie breaker would be if one had less rust or fewer miles.
I went like 5 hours for my C8.25, but I also picked up some tires and all three skid plates on the same trip lol
The 27-spline is as weak as the D35, but harder to find aftermarket parts for, or they're more expensive. Given the choice between a 27-spline C8.25 and a D35, I'd probably stick with the D35. Both assume no larger than a 32" tire. A tie breaker would be if one had less rust or fewer miles.
I went like 5 hours for my C8.25, but I also picked up some tires and all three skid plates on the same trip lol
CF Veteran
The Liberty also had the 8.25". It also had discs on all but the first year. You'd still need to MOD it to work with leafs though.
No, I don't lick fish.
If you could talk someone out of a 27 spl 8.25 out of an XJ for a song, you could swap the guts and discs over from the KJ 8.25... win/win. Just depends on how cheap you get both of said axles for.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6