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XJ Ask the Question Thread
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee
OK, so I just replaced my driverside front wheel hub. No issue. But now The ABS light came on, the traction control light came on and my cruise control has stoped working. Any ideas?
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Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I made a similar mistake, but, instead of squishing the line, it deformed the flare at the little block on the axle. Noticed this when we pulled over for a **** and the brake pedal had almost no pressure. I crawled underneath to look for a leak, had my friend hit the brake pedal, and got fluid sprayed on my cheek below my right eye. Two hours from anywhere in a nature preserve. I freaked out a little bit lol. Drove home with low air pressure in the tires, front brakes, and a loooot of down-shifting...
No, I don't lick fish.
Was this answer not good enough for you? VVV
Bad battery cables causing "bad battery"
I have an 2.5 year old Optima Yellowtop and original battery cables on a '97 with 291,000 miles. Recently it's been having trouble starting (turn key, single click, loses all power -> get out and wiggle the cables, power comes back, repeat several times until it finally starts). I suspected it was the cables but I just took it to OReilly's and they said the battery is bad. I find it hard to believe an Optima would only last 2 years in Alabama/Albuquerque, so I was wondering if bad cables/terminals could cause a bad battery indication.
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Denver
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What's the part number to get to properly fix the oil filter adapter leaks? Finally getting around to it, and replacing my starter. Looking to buy the OEM ones online if I can, as the nearest Jeep dealer is across town through tons of traffic.
4720363 looks to be right, right? Some sites say it only fits 00-01, but I have a 99.
4720363 looks to be right, right? Some sites say it only fits 00-01, but I have a 99.
Last edited by kgm; 06-15-2016 at 09:37 AM.
99 Cherokee Limited
Daughter is turning 16 so I bought her a 99 red Cherokee. she's in love and it's perfect except .... for this strange click clack noise coming from the front driver wheel. Goes away after the car is driven for a while and is warm.
I am unfortunately not very mechanical so please pardon me if this one is obvious.
Here's a video, ignore my youngest laughing at me at the end as I run along side the vehicle!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9k...ew?usp=sharing
thanks for your help.
I am unfortunately not very mechanical so please pardon me if this one is obvious.
Here's a video, ignore my youngest laughing at me at the end as I run along side the vehicle!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9k...ew?usp=sharing
thanks for your help.
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I have an 2.5 year old Optima Yellowtop and original battery cables on a '97 with 291,000 miles. Recently it's been having trouble starting (turn key, single click, loses all power -> get out and wiggle the cables, power comes back, repeat several times until it finally starts). I suspected it was the cables but I just took it to OReilly's and they said the battery is bad. I find it hard to believe an Optima would only last 2 years in Alabama/Albuquerque, so I was wondering if bad cables/terminals could cause a bad battery indication.
If you have to wiggle the cables to make it work, the cables are bad. I don't believe the OE ones are available (nor are they particularly good, anyway...) You can try to fit some universals, make your own, or visit the For Sale section on here as a member makes some fantastic upgraded cables.
Bad cables can cause all sorts of issues like you suggest and can prevent the alternator from charging it. Did they test the battery on a bench, outside of the Jeep?
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Daughter is turning 16 so I bought her a 99 red Cherokee. she's in love and it's perfect except .... for this strange click clack noise coming from the front driver wheel. Goes away after the car is driven for a while and is warm.
I am unfortunately not very mechanical so please pardon me if this one is obvious.
Here's a video, ignore my youngest laughing at me at the end as I run along side the vehicle!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9k...ew?usp=sharing
thanks for your help.
I am unfortunately not very mechanical so please pardon me if this one is obvious.
Here's a video, ignore my youngest laughing at me at the end as I run along side the vehicle!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9k...ew?usp=sharing
thanks for your help.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
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36 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
If you have to wiggle the cables to make it work, the cables are bad. I don't believe the OE ones are available (nor are they particularly good, anyway...) You can try to fit some universals, make your own, or visit the For Sale section on here as a member makes some fantastic upgraded cables. Bad cables can cause all sorts of issues like you suggest and can prevent the alternator from charging it. Did they test the battery on a bench, outside of the Jeep?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: some small town oregon
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have an 2.5 year old Optima Yellowtop and original battery cables on a '97 with 291,000 miles. Recently it's been having trouble starting (turn key, single click, loses all power -> get out and wiggle the cables, power comes back, repeat several times until it finally starts). I suspected it was the cables but I just took it to OReilly's and they said the battery is bad. I find it hard to believe an Optima would only last 2 years in Alabama/Albuquerque, so I was wondering if bad cables/terminals could cause a bad battery indication.
Newbie
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 cyl
Rounded slave bleeder
Hello all! Newbie again.
Thank you for the help I received last week!
I would like to know if I can remove the hex bolt that's attached to the bleed line and that the screw is attached to in order to get at the bleeder screw? I really need to bleed the system because my clutch "engagement" point is too close to the floor. Also, there are times (a lot of times) when it's difficult to get into gear. I can get a stiffer pedal and decent engagement point by pumping the pedal a lot but it doesn't last long.
P.S. Clutch, pressure plate, master and slave cylinders replaced 2 months ago. Flywheel was also resurfaced. (By the way, the mechanic that replaced these rounded the screw and I helped it more.)
Thank you very much for your help!
EDIT: I forgot to mention it is an internal slave cylinder. (1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ; 4.0L 6Cyl. 2Wd ; AX-15
Thank you for the help I received last week!
I would like to know if I can remove the hex bolt that's attached to the bleed line and that the screw is attached to in order to get at the bleeder screw? I really need to bleed the system because my clutch "engagement" point is too close to the floor. Also, there are times (a lot of times) when it's difficult to get into gear. I can get a stiffer pedal and decent engagement point by pumping the pedal a lot but it doesn't last long.
P.S. Clutch, pressure plate, master and slave cylinders replaced 2 months ago. Flywheel was also resurfaced. (By the way, the mechanic that replaced these rounded the screw and I helped it more.)
Thank you very much for your help!
EDIT: I forgot to mention it is an internal slave cylinder. (1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ; 4.0L 6Cyl. 2Wd ; AX-15
Last edited by LoveMy90JeepCherokeeXJ; 06-15-2016 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Internal slave