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XJ Ask the Question Thread
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I believe you can only get them stock height.
Also Ox-Gard! Cruiser introduced me and I've been slathering it everywhere...lols
Don't overlook the obvious. It may not be the cables themselves, but the connection between the terminal and the clamp.
When somebody has a starting problem, the first thing most mechanics usually do is turn on the lights and try to start the engine.
If you get the click and die and the lights go off, it's a bad connection, and probably between the terminal and clamp.
Before you buy new cables, I would remove the clamps, run a terminal cleaner brush over the terminal and clamp, then reinstall and tighten. Make sure it's tight.
I wouldn't be surprised if that is the problem, not the cable.
I've got Optima's in all of my vehicles, and all of them have 5 years or more.
When somebody has a starting problem, the first thing most mechanics usually do is turn on the lights and try to start the engine.
If you get the click and die and the lights go off, it's a bad connection, and probably between the terminal and clamp.
Before you buy new cables, I would remove the clamps, run a terminal cleaner brush over the terminal and clamp, then reinstall and tighten. Make sure it's tight.
I wouldn't be surprised if that is the problem, not the cable.
I've got Optima's in all of my vehicles, and all of them have 5 years or more.
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Gotcha. This will be a permanent install so I think I'll just cut the prongs off and solder directly to the stock wires.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
back to my rust questions.
i have an area maybe 2-3" length of the pinch seam (1/2" lip on outside of the jeep, where the rear wheel well meets the floor pan) that is cracking when I start pulling on it. pretty sure I could just rip it off.
thing is, I looked from the inside, under the carpet and it does look manageable, so it's not completely rotted out. basically rust started forming at the seam : https://i.imgur.com/1NGbWbe.jpg?1
of course i plan on cleaning all of that, but my main question is what can i do about the lip / pinch seam on the outside? can I just weld it shut after i buffed all the rust or it compromises the structural integrity of the jeep? from the inside could I just weld along the pinch seam to add even more rigidity and then "delete" the lip?
not my xjs but here is to give you an idea of what I'm talking about : https://i.imgur.com/5cHAzKP.jpg
i have an area maybe 2-3" length of the pinch seam (1/2" lip on outside of the jeep, where the rear wheel well meets the floor pan) that is cracking when I start pulling on it. pretty sure I could just rip it off.
thing is, I looked from the inside, under the carpet and it does look manageable, so it's not completely rotted out. basically rust started forming at the seam : https://i.imgur.com/1NGbWbe.jpg?1
of course i plan on cleaning all of that, but my main question is what can i do about the lip / pinch seam on the outside? can I just weld it shut after i buffed all the rust or it compromises the structural integrity of the jeep? from the inside could I just weld along the pinch seam to add even more rigidity and then "delete" the lip?
not my xjs but here is to give you an idea of what I'm talking about : https://i.imgur.com/5cHAzKP.jpg
Last edited by Cane; 06-16-2016 at 10:13 AM.
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anybody know what's making this noise? I was putting some r134 into the system cause it was low on freon (really low) then it started making this noise. I thought maybe it was the blower motor put I replaced it about a week ago. The AC lines vibrate while making this noise but the blower motor doesn't. Any ideas? Sounds like it's coming com inside the fire wall or that little metal block that the AC lines pass through.
Watch the whole video. The sounds stops as soon as I flip AC off.
Watch the whole video. The sounds stops as soon as I flip AC off.
Last edited by 93XJeeper; 06-16-2016 at 11:40 AM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
back to my rust questions.
i have an area maybe 2-3" length of the pinch seam (1/2" lip on outside of the jeep, where the rear wheel well meets the floor pan) that is cracking when I start pulling on it. pretty sure I could just rip it off.
thing is, I looked from the inside, under the carpet and it does look manageable, so it's not completely rotted out. basically rust started forming at the seam : https://i.imgur.com/1NGbWbe.jpg?1
of course i plan on cleaning all of that, but my main question is what can i do about the lip / pinch seam on the outside? can I just weld it shut after i buffed all the rust or it compromises the structural integrity of the jeep? from the inside could I just weld along the pinch seam to add even more rigidity and then "delete" the lip?
not my xjs but here is to give you an idea of what I'm talking about : https://i.imgur.com/5cHAzKP.jpg
i have an area maybe 2-3" length of the pinch seam (1/2" lip on outside of the jeep, where the rear wheel well meets the floor pan) that is cracking when I start pulling on it. pretty sure I could just rip it off.
thing is, I looked from the inside, under the carpet and it does look manageable, so it's not completely rotted out. basically rust started forming at the seam : https://i.imgur.com/1NGbWbe.jpg?1
of course i plan on cleaning all of that, but my main question is what can i do about the lip / pinch seam on the outside? can I just weld it shut after i buffed all the rust or it compromises the structural integrity of the jeep? from the inside could I just weld along the pinch seam to add even more rigidity and then "delete" the lip?
not my xjs but here is to give you an idea of what I'm talking about : https://i.imgur.com/5cHAzKP.jpg
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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to make things more simple, can i just cut the whole lip the seam creates, clean all the rusty metal, weld in sheet metal if needed and then weld the floor pan to the wheel well? the way I see it is that it should work, but again because it's a unibody I'm not 100% sure, integrity-wise
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
i don't really get it either, but like I said I pushed pretty hard on the floor and wheel well and it feels solid. of course the only way to know is to do it which I will probably this weekend, but I want to be prepared in case the seam is indeed rotted so i know what to do.
(This is why people need to use oil-based undercoating!!!)
to make things more simple, can i just cut the whole lip the seam creates, clean all the rusty metal, weld in sheet metal if needed and then weld the floor pan to the wheel well? the way I see it is that it should work, but again because it's a unibody I'm not 100% sure, integrity-wise
Frame stiffeners really tie the whole thing together, if you can swing them. The bodies are 19 gauge sheet metal with a couple of spot welds... they're not exactly bomb-proof. Reducing flex in the uniframe really tightens these vehicles up. Up in Quebec it might be pretty challenging to get some, though!
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Year: 1996
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got it, thanks
it lived most of its life in alberta, a salt-free province, and for the past 4 winters I had it treated for rust. they shoot oil over all your under carriage and also inside the doors/rockers. even with all this prevention it seems they're still prone to rust in hidden spots. right now the rocker panels, the driver's side floor pan (about 2"x2" if i were to cut around it) and now the rear wheel wells is where I found rust so far, so if I can fix all those, I'll be a happy man.
and like anything else I must order online, I'm pretty used to pay extra for shipping, so if it comes down to it I'll save up for them and order online. my jcr bumper cost me an extra 100$ because of brokerage fees over the border -_- the quality and design made up for it though, i was (still am) really happy with it!
it lived most of its life in alberta, a salt-free province, and for the past 4 winters I had it treated for rust. they shoot oil over all your under carriage and also inside the doors/rockers. even with all this prevention it seems they're still prone to rust in hidden spots. right now the rocker panels, the driver's side floor pan (about 2"x2" if i were to cut around it) and now the rear wheel wells is where I found rust so far, so if I can fix all those, I'll be a happy man.
and like anything else I must order online, I'm pretty used to pay extra for shipping, so if it comes down to it I'll save up for them and order online. my jcr bumper cost me an extra 100$ because of brokerage fees over the border -_- the quality and design made up for it though, i was (still am) really happy with it!
Last edited by Cane; 06-16-2016 at 02:30 PM.
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anybody know what's making this noise? I was putting some r134 into the system cause it was low on freon (really low) then it started making this noise. I thought maybe it was the blower motor put I replaced it about a week ago. The AC lines vibrate while making this noise but the blower motor doesn't. Any ideas? Sounds like it's coming com inside the fire wall or that little metal block that the AC lines pass through. Video Link: https://youtu.be/9xVpQOo0Ab0 Watch the whole video. The sounds stops as soon as I flip AC off.
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only thing i can think of is that if it was low, you probably have a leak. no clue if it's the source of your problem, but think about the polar bears!!!
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got it, thanks
it lived most of its life in alberta, a salt-free province, and for the past 4 winters I had it treated for rust. they shoot oil over all your under carriage and also inside the doors/rockers. even with all this prevention it seems they're still prone to rust in hidden spots. right now the rocker panels, the driver's side floor pan (about 2"x2" if i were to cut around it) and now the rear wheel wells is where I found rust so far, so if I can fix all those, I'll be a happy man.
it lived most of its life in alberta, a salt-free province, and for the past 4 winters I had it treated for rust. they shoot oil over all your under carriage and also inside the doors/rockers. even with all this prevention it seems they're still prone to rust in hidden spots. right now the rocker panels, the driver's side floor pan (about 2"x2" if i were to cut around it) and now the rear wheel wells is where I found rust so far, so if I can fix all those, I'll be a happy man.
Do you have Krown or Rust-Check where you are? They've got several "levels" of coverage, I think with the cheap one they don't drill into the body like pillars and rockers.
and like anything else I must order online, I'm pretty used to pay extra for shipping, so if it comes down to it I'll save up for them and order online. my jcr bumper cost me an extra 100$ because of brokerage fees over the border -_- the quality and design made up for it though, i was (still am) really happy with it!
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
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well,,I didnt have AC for about a year, so I bought all the parts and put it together, went to a buddy's shop, and charged it up as well as checked for leaks, I didn't charge it up all the way and about 2 weeks later (today) I finally got around to finish charging it up, and now it's makes this noise, it's still not charged completely cause I ran out of freon. I'm bout to go to the store and get some more. Could this be making the noise cause it's not fully charged?
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Did you add refrigerant oil when you put new freon in? If not, it can cause the compressor to run really hot and possibly fail.
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
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yea, both in the compressor and the high pressure line. Also, the compressor runs nice and quiet, the sound is coming from the lines where they enter into the fire wall.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've got a 90 4.0 that's in need of a new exhaust manifold, I can pick up a manifold off of a 92 that's been replaced with one of those crinkle manifolds for $25 I just need to know if it will match up correctly. Thank you