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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
1996 uses an ECT sensor separate from the sending unit for the dash. The dash gauge's sending unit is located in the rear of the head. A wildly different reading between these units is not uncommon on older models. (1997+ uses the ECT for all purposes.)
Buy/borrow a little infrared laser thermometer gun and see what the actual temperature is at the thermostat housing. Canadian Tire has these on for $20 regularly, sometimes $15. Invaluable tool. Then you will know if you're ACTUALLY overheating.
As for the brown mess in the coolant bottle, this isn't "good" but is very typical of older vehicles with open cooling systems. You should do a proper flush, not drain-and-fill. You don't need to use distilled water the whole time, just make sure that the water that remains in the engine that gets mixed with coolant is free of minerals.
When was the last time the fan clutch was replaced? When the radiator gets really hot, your Jeep's fan should make it sound like a big truck with how much air it moves.
noted for the infrared reader, I'll get me one of those. where can I can the most accurate reading? the in/out hoses? on the radiator itself near the hoses? the block?
i never replaced the clutch, but from reading online people say when it goes bad it will spin freely while mine still has resistance and does about half a turn when I try spinning it. Can the clutch be good at low speeds but bad at high? in that case I will look into replacing it too.
Originally Posted by rcguymike
Maybe the connector? On mine one of the PO's replace the e-fan with a newer one and spliced in a pigtail to convert the connector to the factory type. The factory connector was screwed up and you had to hold in the wires to get terminals in the connector to contact.
connectors and wires look good, i'll have to dig into this.
tonight I'm doing the flush, will see tomorrow when going to work how it goes. I'm getting the cap in about a week, so i'll do that part when I receive it.
As for the brown mess in the coolant bottle, this isn't "good" but is very typical of older vehicles with open cooling systems. You should do a proper flush, not drain-and-fill. You don't need to use distilled water the whole time, just make sure that the water that remains in the engine that gets mixed with coolant is free of minerals.
Ok so I have experienced the sewer water the OP mentioned. I tried distilled, prestone, and zerex flush to no avail. I even did a flush with the motor pulled. Nothing seemed to clean it up and I was running a little hot way too often.
A couple of months ago I saw a commercial for a product called Thermocure made by Evaporust. I was to the point where I was willing to try anything. I did some research and eventually ordered some from summit because I couldn't find it local. I followed the instructions and followed it up with distilled water that I flushed once a week a couple of times. After the last drain and rinse I filled it with 50/50.
A month later, my coolant is still monster energy green and I don't go above 210 on San Antonio days with the AC running.
Bottom line, The stuff works. (I don't gain a thing by saying that). Think about it instead of the cheaper stuff.
Hi, I have a 2000 XJ... I just removed the doors... at first I was told it was legal as long as I had a 3 in lip to keep crap from falling out of it and atleast 2 mirrors... now I'm being told it's still illegal and I will get a large fine for it... anyone know the answer? I've tried looking on the dmv website and it's not very helpful
This is the only thing I could find and nothing regarding doors or mirrors (the usual offender of removing doors is the lack of the mirrors on said doors after removal).
Junker doors might be cheaper than a ticket? Sounds like a good idea to play it safe and just put your doors back on until you can afford half doors or know for sure it's not illegal. You could stop buy a local police station and ask?(just don't do it without doors ;-P)
To that end, you can also just call and have an officer make contact with you by phone. You can ask anything from "Is it legal for me to carry an asp in my vehicle" to "is there any statute related to driving around in my cherokee without the doors on?" and just about everything in between. They'll more than likely ask for your address and phone number just so an officer from the zone in which you live can make contact with you... but that doesn't mean one is going to make contact in person. They would rather you call and ask about a law to remain in compliance than pull you over for it and act all baby-ish and try to throw out the old "Well, I didn't know"
and to quote "Dennis" in Monty Python's "Search for the Holy Grail".... "You didn't bother to find out, did you?"
noted for the infrared reader, I'll get me one of those. where can I can the most accurate reading? the in/out hoses? on the radiator itself near the hoses? the block?
Thermostat housing, front of the head, where the upper radiator hose is and ECT sensor screws in.
Originally Posted by Cane
i never replaced the clutch, but from reading online people say when it goes bad it will spin freely while mine still has resistance and does about half a turn when I try spinning it. Can the clutch be good at low speeds but bad at high? in that case I will look into replacing it too.
Yeah, when it's stone-cold DEAD, not failing lol. They're a regular maintenance item. They're actually a viscous coupling with a bimetallic clutch type of idea. Over time they just wear out.
Originally Posted by gigemjeep
Ok so I have experienced the sewer water the OP mentioned. I tried distilled, prestone, and zerex flush to no avail. I even did a flush with the motor pulled. Nothing seemed to clean it up and I was running a little hot way too often.
A couple of months ago I saw a commercial for a product called Thermocure made by Evaporust. I was to the point where I was willing to try anything. I did some research and eventually ordered some from summit because I couldn't find it local. I followed the instructions and followed it up with distilled water that I flushed once a week a couple of times. After the last drain and rinse I filled it with 50/50.
A month later, my coolant is still monster energy green and I don't go above 210 on San Antonio days with the AC running.
Bottom line, The stuff works. (I don't gain a thing by saying that). Think about it instead of the cheaper stuff.
Cool, I've heard of Evaporust, never of that product, though! I'm told that Cascade also works very well for a flush - but it just 'cleans'.
I'm guessing that this product ( http://www.evapo-rust.com/thermocure/ ) does what the brand is famous for and has an acid that dissolves iron oxide. Neato
ok small update. i'll keep the product from evaporust un mind, i checked amazon canada but they don't have it.
i just got done draining / filling the jeep. I don't have access to a hose, so the prestone flush kit and other methods with a hose were not possible for me.
i drained and filled up a total of 4 times. first drain, before doing anything, was chocolate brown with small bits in it. i then i filled up with a full bottle of liquid prestone radiator cleaner and distilled water. let it warm up, cool down. 2nd drain was light brown. filled up half a bottle of cleaner this time and still distilled water. 3rd drain started to look clearer, light green / greyish. finally filled up last half with water, went for a drive this time. when draining it was light green, not clear but opaque. finally filled up half a gallon of prestone concentrated coolant and topped the rest with water.
i will see the results tomorrow hopefully. if this doesn't fix it, I'll wait for the cap and then go the clutch route. i disconnected the sensor at the thermostat and it indeed threw a code and started the e-fan. good sign?
i disconnected the sensor at the thermostat and it indeed threw a code and started the e-fan. good sign?
Yup that means all the electronics for your e-fan work. With your temp gun readings near the sensor the fan should come on between 215-220F and stay on until...~200F...IIRC
yeah up here it's in celcius but my fan usually kicks on right before the 3rd line edited : meant 4th line.
with my limited math skills (:P) i can figure out that line is 112.5, so I would say 108-110 is when it usually kicks in. 110C is equal to 230. can it still make sense? again, like salad said, i have 2 different sensors/readings, one for the gauge and one for the fan. they probably differ in some way, that's why I need the gun thingy to see what my real temp is.
yeah up here it's in celcius but my fan usually kicks on right before the 3rd line.
with my limited math skills (:P) i can figure out that line is 112.5, so I would say 108-110 is when it usually kicks in. 110C is equal to 230. can it still make sense? again, like salad said, i have 2 different sensors/readings, one for the gauge and one for the fan. they probably differ in some way, that's why I need the gun thingy to see what my real temp is.
i made a mistake, i meant the fan usually starts at the *fourth* line, not the third. that is the one I was reffering to when I said it was 112.5 (in the middle of 100-125)
and another small update, still overheating in traffic this morning. the gauge did not get to the red and I did not have to start the heat, but it reached around 230-235. aux fan never kicked on. at least I know the coolant is a lot cleaner than before. i'll wait for my cap and if that doesn't do it I'll check the aux fan temp sensor and also the fan clutch.
so the fan kicks on when temp sensor is disconnected, but not when the temp gauge inside the cluster shows well over 220
i made a mistake, i meant the fan usually starts at the *fourth* line, not the third. that is the one I was reffering to when I said it was 112.5 (in the middle of 100-125)
and another small update, still overheating in traffic this morning. the gauge did not get to the red and I did not have to start the heat, but it reached around 230-235. aux fan never kicked on. at least I know the coolant is a lot cleaner than before. i'll wait for my cap and if that doesn't do it I'll check the aux fan temp sensor and also the fan clutch.
so the fan kicks on when temp sensor is disconnected, but not when the temp gauge inside the cluster shows well over 220
gauge clusters have been known to be inaccurate...or so I've heard. Check it with your infrared gun at the water pump housing when you get a chance.
Edit: also one of the troubleshooting step is sticking a 470 ohm resister in the coolant temp sensor plug and then starting the vehicle. That simulates 235F IIRC which should also turn on the fan. Maybe there are air bubbles in the system? I think you can park on a steep nose up incline to purge them right experts?
gauge clusters have been known to be inaccurate...or so I've heard. Check it with your infrared gun at the water pump housing when you get a chance.
Edit: also one of the troubleshooting step is sticking a 470 ohm resister in the coolant temp sensor plug and then starting the vehicle. That simulates 235F IIRC which should also turn on the fan. Maybe there are air bubbles in the system? I think you can park on a steep nose up incline to purge them right experts?
thanks for troubleshooting tip, I will definitely look into that also. yesterday i used my jack to lift up the front when filling it up. this morning I checked under the cap and it's still full. when pressing the upper radiator hose there is no more bubbles coming out. if I find a hill i can park on i'll give it another try.
i'm gonna go get the gun today, I'll report back once I find out more. i really hope it's the gauge cluster that is innacurate.
I need to remove the windshield gasket/molding on my 99' to do some body work. How do I remove it and put a new one on?
You don't. It is put around the windshield then it is installed. There is a channel that you can not see under the molding that lays flat that you can see in which the windshield goes into. Hope you get that. I typed it and confused myself. LOL. I can take a picture later, redoing my windshield because I have a leak, and bought a new Mopar molding. Still have not gotten to it.
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
