09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
06-27-2016, 07:16 PM
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3 wire oem blinker to a 2 wire LED BLINKER
I have a 2000 Limited XJ, I put 08 Jeep commander head lights in (was a pain) and wanting to get rid of the oem blinkers by putting led blinkers in but the led blinkers I got have only 2 wires and the oem wires from the xj are 3 wires. Does any one know how to wire this up, with out hyper flash an use them as parking lights? I'm not 100% if someone posted this already. I've looked around and I couldn't find any Info. Thanks
06-27-2016, 09:46 PM
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06-28-2016, 12:04 AM
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0 HO
Agreed, I am lucky to not have the infamous issue, guess my head wasn't cast on a Friday or Monday. More or less what I was trying to get across is its not the end of the world if your head goes bad.
I had a '96 my wife bought that the dude swore was straight, after only a month of ownership I started doing upkeep changed the coolant noticed it was not quite the right color. Did some digging and found that the head was warped and cracked. I needed up trading the '96 (with a cracked head) for my '01, and I've never looked back, and I haven't had any problems with this head.
06-28-2016, 06:47 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Anybody have any experience with rivnut tools? Kinda fascinated by them. Have some projects in mind where I think they might work. First the front valance on an '00 XJ. Replacing mine, will drill out the rivets, but thinking of using rivnuts to replace. Figure it is light, the cheapo Harbor Freight ones would do, and being able to remove the valance at will appeals to me even though I have no idea why I would want to. The other projects are Front and TC skid plates. Thinking the Harbor Freight ones would not cut it. Need a better one but am unsure as to what size bolts I should use and if this is even a good idea.
Last edited by Ralph77; 06-28-2016 at 06:49 AM.
06-28-2016, 07:58 AM
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Anybody have any experience with rivnut tools? Kinda fascinated by them. Have some projects in mind where I think they might work. First the front valance on an '00 XJ. Replacing mine, will drill out the rivets, but thinking of using rivnuts to replace. Figure it is light, the cheapo Harbor Freight ones would do, and being able to remove the valance at will appeals to me even though I have no idea why I would want to. The other projects are Front and TC skid plates. Thinking the Harbor Freight ones would not cut it. Need a better one but am unsure as to what size bolts I should use and if this is even a good idea.
06-28-2016, 08:26 AM
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Not going to lie had to Google Flag Nuts. My assumption is that the attached piece will only let the nut turn so far before it hits something and stops letting you tighten and loosen the bolts. Ok. Don't like the rivnut idea for skids? Some rivnuts tools do pretty big rivnuts. Like 3/8" big. Thanks for the Flag Nut tip.
06-28-2016, 08:29 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Not going to lie had to Google Flag Nuts. My assumption is that the attached piece will only let the nut turn so far before it hits something and stops letting you tighten and loosen the bolts. Ok. Don't like the rivnut idea for skids? Some rivnuts tools do pretty big rivnuts. Like 3/8" big. Thanks for the Flag Nut tip.
Thanks for the clarification.
06-28-2016, 08:31 AM
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06-28-2016, 08:34 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Not going to lie had to Google Flag Nuts. My assumption is that the attached piece will only let the nut turn so far before it hits something and stops letting you tighten and loosen the bolts. Ok. Don't like the rivnut idea for skids? Some rivnuts tools do pretty big rivnuts. Like 3/8" big. Thanks for the Flag Nut tip.
06-28-2016, 08:40 AM
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Year: 1990
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When I part Jeeps out, I save those for use later in other applications.
06-28-2016, 08:41 AM
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06-28-2016, 08:42 AM
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06-28-2016, 12:27 PM
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On a serious note, I've been researching off and on for quite a while about lunchbox style lockers, specifically a lock rite or aussie. Now I daily drive in winter, sometimes glare ice and have an NP242 I like to leave in full time mode. What are the pros and cons of having:
1: just the rear with an autolocker
2: just the front with an autolocker
3: both with an auto locker
I'd like to get at least 1 autolocker since they're fairly cheap, durable, and I can do it myself no problem but if the wifey has to drive it for some reason I want it as safe as can be. At least she grew up without ABS.
These autolockers, in theory, shouldn't effect braking, would let any tire go faster than the inside tire for turns(might push a bit under heavy throttle?), and would only lock when the driveshaft applies torque to the pinion and carrier. Do these work that well in practice or are they more touchy in real life? My dad's Z71 truck had a detroit and it seemed ok, but in winter one tire had to spin a bit before it engaged the other so an autolocker(needed 100rpm difference or something for the cam system to work), in theory, would have a little bit of an advantage starting on ice with 2 tires using static coefficients of friction rather than one dynamic and one static. Plus detroits are $$.
Should this be in its own thread?
1: just the rear with an autolocker
2: just the front with an autolocker
3: both with an auto locker
I'd like to get at least 1 autolocker since they're fairly cheap, durable, and I can do it myself no problem but if the wifey has to drive it for some reason I want it as safe as can be. At least she grew up without ABS.
These autolockers, in theory, shouldn't effect braking, would let any tire go faster than the inside tire for turns(might push a bit under heavy throttle?), and would only lock when the driveshaft applies torque to the pinion and carrier. Do these work that well in practice or are they more touchy in real life? My dad's Z71 truck had a detroit and it seemed ok, but in winter one tire had to spin a bit before it engaged the other so an autolocker(needed 100rpm difference or something for the cam system to work), in theory, would have a little bit of an advantage starting on ice with 2 tires using static coefficients of friction rather than one dynamic and one static. Plus detroits are $$.
Should this be in its own thread?
06-28-2016, 01:56 PM
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Year: 1998
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This is the best explanation I've seen so far. You might also want to watch some youtube videos too get other impressions.
Originally Posted by -lupinsea
Via Jeepforum.com
Via Jeepforum.com
"Different Types of Traction
In my experience there are two main types of traction we're concerned about. There is the motive traction to be able to keep going forward. On the trail this is why lockers are popular. And, in slick conditions, there is the issue of traction for control or lateral traction.
Open Diff: With an open differential if a wheel starts to spin the power will follow the path of least resistance. That wheel will keep spinning and you'll lose motive traction to keep moving forward. HOWEVER, the non-spinning wheel that is not getting any power will at least keep you from sliding sideways. Remember, if you're spinning a wheel you've lost traction, both to go forward as well as lateral stability. So, with an open diff you might not be able to move forward but at least you'll be in some control and less likely to slide.
Locked Diff: With a locker on slick road surfaces, if one wheel starts to spin it's easy to pull the opposite wheel into a spin as well (since they are locked together). If you're on the trail there is enough material (wheel ruts, rocks, mud, etc.) to usually keep the Jeep from sliding around. If you're on a packed snowy road and you get both wheels spinning then you've lost ALL traction and it's much easier for the back end to slide out and much more difficult to contro. So, good traction to get moving forward, but there is less control if the wheels start spinning.
This being said, if you could turn off the differential (i.e. selectable locker) then you could have the best of both worlds. A locker traction when you need it and an open diff the rest of the time for lateral stability and good road manners.
However, with auto-lockers there is no such control. They are basically "on" all the time
LSDs: The limited slip diffs come in two varieties, a clutch-based version w/ preload and a torsen-type gear driven system that has no-to-minimal preload. With the preload the clutch based systems can be a tighter LSD and act like a mini locker in the snow where a spinning wheel on one end of the axle is likely to pull the other one into the spin, too. The torsen-type LSDs act as an open diff until the wheel is about to spin then the LSD gear system gradually ramps up resistance and begins to bind up and provide added traction. And they do this incredibly smoothly, too. Because of this they are less likely to pull both tires into a spin and are more stable on snow.
The Truetrac LSD is the only one on the TJ market I know of that is a gear-driven, torsen-type LSD. All the other LSDs are clutch-based.
Traction Balance
I would suggest that we're looking for a balance between motive traction as well as stability. The system that will likely give you the greatest stability would be the open diffs at each. The one that will give you the most motive traction would be a locker system.
A dual selectable locker would give you the best of both worlds but would be the most expensive. Keep the lockers "off" for most of the driving and turn them on when motive traction is needed.
The Truetracs will be somewhere in the middle. They'll give you good motive traction and have better lateral stability (and steering ability) than an auto-locker or clutch-based LSD. But they won't have the same lateral stability as a completely open diff.
Mixed LSD / Locker Setup
There are a lot of good points here about a mixed setup. I'm not entirely sure which axle would be best for the LSD and which for a selectable locker.
Front Selectable / Rear LSD: There are many good reasons to put a Truetrac out back and the selectable locker up front. This would give you some good LSD traction for nearly every driving situation on the road and leave the front axle completely open for the best steering / stability. But there might be a few situations where the back end could break free.
Front LSD / Rear Selectable: With this set up you can get maximum traction from the rear axle when activated which would be great on the trail. And yet on the trail you'll maintain a tight turning radius with the front LSD. However, on the road you could turn off the rear locker to keep the back end planted. You'll still be able to turn very well with the front LSD but there might be some slight pushing or understeer.
Offroad vs. Onroad Priority
To the OP, you'll have to figure out your own offroad vs onroad traction / handling / driveability priority. In any case the basic TJ set up and 4WD system does pretty good offroad. So anything you do will simply make it better there. Here are some ideas. . .
Lots of Snow: if you're driving in snow for months out of the year then most of that driving in on the road then I would probably bias things for on-road stability.
Modest Snow plus Offroading: If you go offroading a bunch and see modest snow (maybe a few days to a few weeks a year) then I'd bias things toward offroad driving.
Other People Drive Your Jeep: If other people who may not be as experience with 4WD systems are going to be driving your Jeep (say, a wife, perhaps) then I'd probably lean toward on-road stability and predictability."
In my experience there are two main types of traction we're concerned about. There is the motive traction to be able to keep going forward. On the trail this is why lockers are popular. And, in slick conditions, there is the issue of traction for control or lateral traction.
Open Diff: With an open differential if a wheel starts to spin the power will follow the path of least resistance. That wheel will keep spinning and you'll lose motive traction to keep moving forward. HOWEVER, the non-spinning wheel that is not getting any power will at least keep you from sliding sideways. Remember, if you're spinning a wheel you've lost traction, both to go forward as well as lateral stability. So, with an open diff you might not be able to move forward but at least you'll be in some control and less likely to slide.
Locked Diff: With a locker on slick road surfaces, if one wheel starts to spin it's easy to pull the opposite wheel into a spin as well (since they are locked together). If you're on the trail there is enough material (wheel ruts, rocks, mud, etc.) to usually keep the Jeep from sliding around. If you're on a packed snowy road and you get both wheels spinning then you've lost ALL traction and it's much easier for the back end to slide out and much more difficult to contro. So, good traction to get moving forward, but there is less control if the wheels start spinning.
This being said, if you could turn off the differential (i.e. selectable locker) then you could have the best of both worlds. A locker traction when you need it and an open diff the rest of the time for lateral stability and good road manners.
However, with auto-lockers there is no such control. They are basically "on" all the time
LSDs: The limited slip diffs come in two varieties, a clutch-based version w/ preload and a torsen-type gear driven system that has no-to-minimal preload. With the preload the clutch based systems can be a tighter LSD and act like a mini locker in the snow where a spinning wheel on one end of the axle is likely to pull the other one into the spin, too. The torsen-type LSDs act as an open diff until the wheel is about to spin then the LSD gear system gradually ramps up resistance and begins to bind up and provide added traction. And they do this incredibly smoothly, too. Because of this they are less likely to pull both tires into a spin and are more stable on snow.
The Truetrac LSD is the only one on the TJ market I know of that is a gear-driven, torsen-type LSD. All the other LSDs are clutch-based.
Traction Balance
I would suggest that we're looking for a balance between motive traction as well as stability. The system that will likely give you the greatest stability would be the open diffs at each. The one that will give you the most motive traction would be a locker system.
A dual selectable locker would give you the best of both worlds but would be the most expensive. Keep the lockers "off" for most of the driving and turn them on when motive traction is needed.
The Truetracs will be somewhere in the middle. They'll give you good motive traction and have better lateral stability (and steering ability) than an auto-locker or clutch-based LSD. But they won't have the same lateral stability as a completely open diff.
Mixed LSD / Locker Setup
There are a lot of good points here about a mixed setup. I'm not entirely sure which axle would be best for the LSD and which for a selectable locker.
Front Selectable / Rear LSD: There are many good reasons to put a Truetrac out back and the selectable locker up front. This would give you some good LSD traction for nearly every driving situation on the road and leave the front axle completely open for the best steering / stability. But there might be a few situations where the back end could break free.
Front LSD / Rear Selectable: With this set up you can get maximum traction from the rear axle when activated which would be great on the trail. And yet on the trail you'll maintain a tight turning radius with the front LSD. However, on the road you could turn off the rear locker to keep the back end planted. You'll still be able to turn very well with the front LSD but there might be some slight pushing or understeer.
Offroad vs. Onroad Priority
To the OP, you'll have to figure out your own offroad vs onroad traction / handling / driveability priority. In any case the basic TJ set up and 4WD system does pretty good offroad. So anything you do will simply make it better there. Here are some ideas. . .
Lots of Snow: if you're driving in snow for months out of the year then most of that driving in on the road then I would probably bias things for on-road stability.
Modest Snow plus Offroading: If you go offroading a bunch and see modest snow (maybe a few days to a few weeks a year) then I'd bias things toward offroad driving.
Other People Drive Your Jeep: If other people who may not be as experience with 4WD systems are going to be driving your Jeep (say, a wife, perhaps) then I'd probably lean toward on-road stability and predictability."